Member postings for harold

Hi Paul,

As a luthier you'll have heard of David Rodgers' 'tuning machines' ie machine heads. They're a real joy to use. Have a look on his website maybe for some ideas :Rodgers website

Welcome to MEW!

Regards,

John

DSO shell from JYE tech. It's saved me so much hasssle setting up CNC and doing amp repairs, because it's small, compact and 'good enough'.

Old School, I feel your pain.

I have a KX3 and no prior machining experience or talent. By far the best source of information I found was this:

KTH Royal Institute of Technology, Sweden

It's a pdf all about using the mill, with a feeds and speeds table at the back. It follows the excellent tactic of assuming its readers are ignorant but not stupid.

HTH

John.

I've just finished putting my Electronic Leadscrew in a box. I used Bulgin Buccaneer connectors, which are secure and expensive, for the steppers. For the sensor I found locking jack sockets at CPC, which are cheap and work very well. You can also get locking IEC plugs which work with a standard kettle socket for about a fiver, including 13A plug.

HTH

John

Indeed. Could a passing Mod correct my post, please?

The website that you linked to tells you how to check that the product that you've already bought is genuine (the boot-up msg agrees with the PCB sticker), but the only way to be sure the seller is genuine seems to be to buy from one of their listed distributors

The on-screen display is really nice. I've been messing with some Quad amps and being able to look at audio waveforms and measure RMS voltages, all for less than £30 in a nice portable package is very welcome.

I concur: excellent value and great fun: also much easier to carry than a 'proper' scope. It's worth getting a genuine JTE Tech one, not least because the firmware upgrades usually don't work on the fakes.

Router Boss or WoodRat will both do narrow dovetails, pretty much indistinguishable* from hand-made.

Not cheap.

*cognoscenti excepted, obvs.

HTH

Edited By harold on 07/09/2017 11:33:45

Ian, over on CNCzone there lives the original thread where Steve Ward ( 'Kwackers' ) posted his design, Currently running at 62 pages. ISTR Steve has posted here on the MEW forum.

HTH,

John

Edited By harold on 08/06/2014 15:00:37

I think you may have misinterpreted the instructions. The saw will obviously fail to work in its current orientation. Turn it around so that the handle is on the right and all will be well.

HTH.

Like you I have a KX3 and need a vice. Please keep us updated. Warco should respond to their usual high standard -- if they do, the choice is made.

Cheers,

John

It's a just lot of hairy balls...

I'm shamelessly bumping this thread because, speaking as a relative newb, it's the most useful I've found on the subject of cutting speeds. Jens' second link lists some very simple formulas which I've used to write a table to adorn the shed, while Andrew's post demonstrates the method.

Thanks, chaps.

John

Funny you should ask ...

I've just been getting a load of blasting done on some Land Rover bits prior to acid-etch and powder coating. My blasting chum told me a few helpful tales about the game; one I hadn't expected was how wonderful a finish you can get with bicab ( 'Soda Blasting'  ) only for it to go all titsy a few months later as the metallic salts swap electrons and blister the paint. So, as always, it pays to seek out good advice.

S'pose you might get away with vapour blasting a fully-deconstructed chuck. Maybe.

John

Edited By harold on 01/03/2012 19:28:05