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Member postings for John Haine

Here is a list of all the postings John Haine has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 Next > Last >>
Thread: Brown & Sharpe Machine?
29/12/2009 13:20:21
Import from USA during war - "lend-lease"?  My dad had a B&S lathe, of which hundreds were around when sold as surplus.
Thread: Choice of small milling machine
21/12/2009 21:15:04
What Warco call the mini-mill is I believe sold by many vendors as the X2 - whenever I've looked at it the table looks very flimsy.
 
Tooling...
 
Don't bother with a tilting vice, just buy a good standard 4 inch m/c vice with a swivel base.  Take it off the base for 90% of the usage for rigidity and more headroom.
 
Buy a clamping set, they are reasonably cheap and worth having all the bits and pieces when you need them.
 
What I find most versatile for workholding is an angle plate, ground on all faces, a collection of toolmaker's clamps and G-clamps.  I probably use that twice as often as the vice.  Fit a fence to one end that you can clamp one machined edge of the work against to get the other at right-angles.  Harold Hall in MEW writes good sense about workholding.
 
If you have the option, I'd recommend getting an R8 spindle with collets that fit directly in it rather than a Posilock or ER-type chuck.  Less overhang, collets don't get stuck, grip like fury, and are reasonably priced as they are standard for the Bridgeport.
 
John.
Thread: Just starting
20/12/2009 14:10:32
A further update -
 
Have now got all reasonably neatly installed, and have been through a couple of issues with Mach3.  One, working with ShuttleExpress, was solved by upgrading to the latest Mach3 and re-installing.  I then added an opto sensor to the mandrel to sense for screwcutting, this gave a couple of problems with not displaying the correct spindle speed, but solved by downloading a "patched" version of the software.  Now all set to try screwcutting, once I have received the licence key!
 
I must say that the folks on the Mach support forum are extremely helpful and very willing to help this raw beginner.
 
John.
Thread: Lathe/Milling Machine combination
15/12/2009 22:44:16
But none the worse for that!  I have a VM-B and it's excellent.
Thread: Electrical Generator/motor
12/12/2009 21:04:04
I seriously suggest that you cheat, use a standard permanent magnet motor disguised to look "scale".  Motor will operate perfectly well as a generator as well as a motor when you want it to.
Thread: Sandown Model Engineer Exhibition 2009
07/12/2009 21:13:03
Friday.
 
Thread: Just starting
01/12/2009 22:21:25
Well, just to say that at last after many months of intermittent work, this evening my Super 7 and my computer made their first unaided successful cuts!  Only a 16 mm dia spigot 5 mm long on a piece of 20 mm bar, but it was something!  Once I'd done the mechanical bits I had to exhume my electronics skills to make the driver (using the OptoPort breakout board and Arc drivers), and every time I thought I was nearly there I discovered another set of tasks to do!  Anyway it seems to be working now so all I need to do is bend up some belt covers and work out how to reorganise my workshop!
Thread: Super X3 Mill spindle
01/12/2009 22:13:33
The test bar, or the mill spindle, tapers may be slightly wrong which is a reason why it could "wobble".  If it's not visibly loose try coating with blue, or just some very soft pencil lines down the length of the arbor, then rotating it in the socket and checking that the "wear" on the marking is even.
 
I bought a large Chinese keyless chuck with a separate MT2 arbor and was puzzled as to why the chuck keeps rotating in the tailstock when drilling.  Then I noticed that the arbor wobbled in the socket, its taper is wrong!  At least I assume it's the arbor, as the tailstock is by Myford and other MT2 arbors are fine in it.
30/11/2009 22:43:28
At what point on the test bar (how far from the bearing) are you measuring?
Thread: Milling Tools
29/11/2009 10:42:03
Two thoughts.
 
I have 4 outer races of taper roller bearings which make useful parallels - but before you use anything similar run the face over an oilstone or diamond lap a few strokes.  Mine turned out to have a slight burr round the edge which marked the mill table when it was clamped down!
 
On the whole I use an angle plate and a selection of toolmaker's and g-clamps for milling much more than my machine vice.  The plate was a quid or so from a market stall, it's ground on all faces, and has a fence screwed to one of the vertical edges.  Easy to align to the table with a square, great for milling edges of plate and so-on, the fence will align an edge vertical.  I have only once had a workpiece move and that was when I was being silly anyway.
 
John.
Thread: Stepper
26/11/2009 21:10:00
That's normal I think - they have a resonance and won't go above a certain speed.
Thread: Myford dividing head
22/11/2009 16:18:26
OK, tried again scribing a slightly smaller circle, this time 15/16 " dia.  Looks slightly better, and 15/16 = 0.9375 which is very close to the other measurement, so with Myford's propensity to use whole fractions (as Meyrick says) then I think we can assume this is the actual value!
 
John.
22/11/2009 15:52:33
I just measured the distance between the screw holes on one of my plates - slightly tricky to do, I used a vernier caliper between the "insides" then the "outsides" of the holes and averaged; also they are not all that accurately drilled.  As far as I can see they are on an equilateral triangle with side 20.64 mm centred on the plate axis.  If my sums are right the PCD must then be 23.83 mm.  or 0.938 inches.  However I also tried scribing a one-inch circle on a piece of ali and laying the plate over it with the holes positioned as closely as possible over the circle and it looked like it fitted pretty well!  From experience I know that Myford seem to like whole inch measurements where they can so I wouldn't be surprised to find that 1" is right.  When I get a mo I'll try to measure it more accurately.
 
Sorry I can't be more definite!
 
John.
Thread: workshop and tooling requirements
22/11/2009 12:07:50
Having owned a couple of lesser lathes I bought a Myford S7 and have never regretted it.  If you can stretch to a reasonable used Myford, or something similar such as a Boxford, I would highly recommend it rather than one of the cheaper imports.
Thread: true Space
19/11/2009 18:18:30
Has anyone had any joy learning Turbocad?  I bought a discounted version at MEX a year ago - I count myself as a skilled user of most PC applications including many drawing packages over many years, but it has me TOTALLY BAFFLED!
 
Anyone know of a simple tutorial for it maybe?
 
John.
Thread: Books for beginers
16/11/2009 08:39:10
I found Guy Lautard's "Machinist's Bedside Reader" series very interesting and useful....though much more advanced than me at the time I bought then (and still!) I keep finding as I come up against problems that a solution is there in what I gleaned from these books.
Thread: O-ring coming off pulley when motor power is cut
12/11/2009 21:07:21
Ideally, fit the roller clutch in the bore of the driven pulley so the vertical driveshaft runs inside it, putting the clutch the right way round so that the pulley drives the shaft but if the pulley stops the shaft will continue to rotate freely.  Alternatively, put the clutch between the motor shaft and its pulley.  Obviously you will need to provide some bushing to stop the pulleys moving along parallel to their shaft.
Thread: Milling on a lathe
12/11/2009 21:01:37
Chris,
 
When I got my VMB I did as Myford recommended and got the R8 taper.  On my old mill I had a Pozilock (MT2), but I bought R8 collets for the VMB and have never missed the old Pozilock.  They are excellent, minimum overhang, tight cutter holding, accurate, and the collets are economical to buy as they are used widely in the Bridgeport (I think).  Never again will I use a separate collet chuck if I can avoid it.  On that experience I would recommend using collets direct in the lathe spindle taper for milling in the lathe if you can get them.
 
I have used both slot and and mills for counterboring - as long as the smaller hole is drilled first an end mill should work.  As someone above suggested, best to first drill the counterbore with a normal  drill and just use the cutter to "flat bottom" the hole.  This however is in the mill, probably a bit more rigid than the lathe vertical slide so go carefully.
 
John.
Thread: Woodwards gearless clock
11/11/2009 14:06:04
Mike, I haven't built one yet but I'm thinking about it so very interested in any experience you could share.  Have you tried simply increasing the weight?  It may be that there just isn't enough "oumph" (sorry for that technical term!) to keep the pendulum going.....
 
John.
Thread: O-ring coming off pulley when motor power is cut
11/11/2009 09:17:40

Edited By David Clark 1 on 11/11/2009 09:56:26

<< First < Prev 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 Next > Last >>
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