Member postings for Ramon Wilson

Bruce,

Thanks for your input - much appreciated. I'm in the UK and I confess my copy is not registered but has been in use for ten or more years without this issue. On another computer, which is not connected to the Internet but is only used for drawing, I do not have this issue, but that is only set up if some lengthy drawing is required

Forgive my ignorance then but which 'Folder' are you referring too?

I too am not computer literate when it comes to such matters so I'm afraid Ady your comments are a mystery to me.

Hopefully someone will actually know the correct approach - I'd really like to be able to get rid of it for sure

Tug

Hi Kiwi, A good point but it's worked for me on my mill for many years - it appears to me that even with a reservoir, with continuous grooves the oil wil quickly drain so a continuous loss system not to mention the oil in the tray most of the time. With separate grooves, that will require separate feed points too or a very long feed chamber.

As always though - 'Yer pays yer money' etc

Best - Tug

Taf

When I made the larger table for my Linley mill I put the grooves in the saddle ways using a 3mm ball nosed endmill - as Bernard says they don't have to be very deep to convey oil

That way the oil sits in the groove and the table ways take it with the movement - I have a single oil point with long drilled holes to the grooves.

If the grooves are in the table ways then it will just leak out from where the table emanates from the saddle

Best - Tug

Hi guys - I've been using AC 2002 for quite a few years now but for some reason that I cannot fathom any file I create recently automatically becomes 'Write Protected' after I have saved it.

I realise I can 'Save As' and create a new file or even copy and paste on a new file to be able to add to it but it still becomes protected once saved.

I've done a google search but all that I can find does not cover the 2002 version

Does anyone actually know how to turn the Write Protected off on this version - your help would be most appreciated if you do.

Cheers in (hopeful) advance - Tug

Further to Rod's post about using a hacksaw blade I remembered I have these images doing a special head for an ETA 15d

I also did a scaled up to 5cc version of the above and used another cutter ground from a 1/4" dia FC3 cutter shank to do these very deep fins.

Best - Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 09/12/2022 22:44:14

Tim,

Always good to hear from someone doing something on 'diesel' engines

I've done quite a few heads now using home ground parting blades ground from old cutter shanks - mainly FC3 throw away cutters. The big thing to be aware of is rubbing of the blade in the slot and the consequent build up of the ali on the tool so plenty of paraffin for lubricant - you can use WD 40 but the fumes given off can prove quite nasty to the respiratory system.

I hold the cutters in short lengths of rectangular mild steel as tool holders. The good thing with using this method is unlike grinding away a costly decent parting tool the tool can be rotated in the holder to give good clearance.

Hope that's of help.

Tug

The problem with machining gunmetal eccentric straps in a four jaw is the ease in which the strap can be distorted by jaw pressure or insufficient grip of the strap if done up to prevent such. Gun metal is very soft and will move with ease if not careful.

IMHO its much better to bore the hole first either in the mill or on a faceplate to the required size including any groove holding the strap by clamps rather that any outside edge.

The strap can then be mounted on an expanding mandrel for the outer faces to be machined without any fear of distortion. The outer profile then shaped as desired by methods available.

If it's of help then there are several images covering this process here for four identical eccentrics and straps for a Double Ten which should explain it visually. Scroll to the bottom of the page and then onto the next. Personally I would never consider using a 4 jaw to machine these small parts - a faceplate and a scrap of ali for a fixture is all that;s required for repeatability.

If the gun metal is 'smearing' then the cutter is, without doubt, worn. Doesn't need to be worn much either to have that effect. - You can improve that by grinding a small 45 degree (approx) angle on each tooth by hand on the off hand grinder - yes it changes the end of the cutter but if its worn it doesn't matter - you've just got some more life out of it - and no it doesn't matter if they don't match but the closer they are the better.

Best - Tug

Welcome John, As someone coming to the end of his model engineering days it's always good to hear that someone is taking an interest in the hobby

Good luck with your journey - you are certainly on the right path

Ramon (Tug)

Hi Noel, Derek, thanks for looking in - I'll continue as is then

Derek - It was my intention to do similar, in fact I did make a couple of metal bed-plates initially but decide not to use them. That said I've never really been happy with the two plain wood bearers it currently stands on so your remark has had a positive effect.

Not quite sure what I'll do in detail but I think it will be representative rather than true to anything full size. The base it stands on was previously destined for another engine and I had intended to fill that open space with perhaps a thrust block and a short prop shaft but have decided against that now

I have one last piece of board to make another base, smaller and much more in keeping with the size of the engine so that's a start. Looks like some channel section is going to be required

It's encouraging to see so many visits - it's nicer still to hear from some

Best - Tug

PS  HP rod in and working - LP today hopefully

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 01/12/2022 08:29:49

Thanks guys, its always good to hear that someone enjoys it.

A full build log is just too time consuming these days hence the occasional updates. I have just added some information to those last series of images however that may help explain the process a little better.

If all goes well with the bearings I should have a 'first turn' over later today/tomorrow.

Best - Tug

I've just placed several images in the album of the making of the conrods. All machined from solid, the steel used was UHB11, a bolster steel similar to En9.

So for most of what time I had in the workshop over the last week or so they began from these blocks milled to overall size plus 0.5mm each face and square on all faces. The blocks were centred and drilled for the two 6BA capheads before cutting the ends and machining the mating faces to form the split line for the big ends.

A fair bit of swarf later they finished as such awaiting the bearings

With no feed back I have no idea if anyone looks at the album but the images in between show the stages - each, as suggested to Doc G on his thread, giving a surface to control the next machining op. The independent 4 jaw was not used, all turning between centres and the rotary milling done on a simple fixture made from a scrap of ally plate as can be seen.

Last op was to drill out and open the 6BA holes to 5BA.

Once those bearings are made I can at last have something turning over

If you do get something out of these images or have any questions about something it would be good to hear from you

Best - Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 29/11/2022 22:04:54

Well I guess you could attempt to straighten it but at just 140mm long, and on edge, you are going to need a fair bit of pressure to get that past it's flex point enough to stay not to mention that it may induce a curve in the flat surface in doing so - though that would be much easier to press out of course.

No, if it has to be 21 mm wide exact then I'd say it's make another bearing in mind relieving the stress first by milling each side.

Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 27/11/2022 22:36:42

Hi Phil,

I'm afraid that's par for the course with a lot of steels including gauge plate. Even though it is ground it still has a lot of stresses in it which machining long edges such as you have done quickly releases.

Possibly the only way to save it but reducing it in width I'm afraid is to take a very fine cut off the convex side to bring it flat then reverse and remove the high points on the other edge. In my day at work this would have been done beforehand to relieve the stress before machining to final size. It's a very rare occasion indeed it gets used these days at home except for the odd cutter.

It might move with heating but that might also bring in further distortion too. I've heated an awful lot of it at work but it's always been quenched and then ground.

Personally I wouldn't hold the supplier to account for it

Not the friendliest of material to machine - hope that helps some

Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 27/11/2022 18:28:35

Yes, a good idea there Rod I'd forgotten your build on that - another good candidate for a subject.

Clive might also be interested in perusing this over in similar vein on HMEM ML Midge and these are links to my builds on MEM

The Atomatic, Oliver Tigres ETA 15s and the ED Hunter. All 5cc in size but I'm sure anyone wanting to build a small diesel will get something from all of them on something.

Fuel is always a problem these days but it is available from Leeds model shop though the price might be a surprise.

Gone are the days when all model shops stocked it - in half and one pint tins, 3/6d and 4/9d if memory of my first cans serves correct.

Best - Tug

Hello Clive,

Without doubt the best combination for a home built engine is a liner made from free cutting EN1a mild steel with a cast iron piston.

Lap the liner then lap the piston to fit. I have made several diesels using this combination with good success all with good compression and all run well.

There really is no need to use material that requires heat treatment - that will inevitably lead to distortion anyway.

Making a diesel is a satisfying project especially when it runs but the smaller the capacity is the more difficult to get that fit required between piston and liner for successful running. Not impossible obviously as many have been made but easier if it's larger. If you haven't got the right fit for decent compression it's unlikely to start let alone run as also many have found out.

If you haven't started yet may I suggest you start with something around 2 - 2.5cc.

The Owen 'Mate' and Chris Boll's 'Holly' spring to mind as ideal candidates.

If it's of any use I have described the building of mine on Model Engine Maker

Good luck with your project

Regards - Tug

Work continues and there are several more images in the album.

Pistons and rods are now in and the head bolted to the condenser standards. Pleased to say that it all aligns which says something for the drawing dimensioning and all working smoothly with no tight spots.

The original drawing calls for one piece piston rod and crosshead but I split this so that the crosshead slipper bolts on. I wasn't too sure this was correct but it took account of not having to make the entire rods again if it didn't line up. I was pleased to find later that this was how it was actually done full size

Next up to be made are the con-rods so a fair bit of swarf to be made there but all small items from then on.

Anyway, that's the state of play at the moment - here's how it looks as last night.

The whole head and condenser are only placed on at the moment - the base needs to come off for some more clearance work on the bearers.

Jason, for your interest it's actually pale grey not blue - I baulked at red

Back soon, now I'm off to start those Con-Rods

Yes I would agree too though I always take several images of the item as it's being packed and the finished package as security. Can't be too careful these days

Tug

Just a thumbs up on Jason's advice to use ebay.

For some reason this product seems to attract a considerable variation in pricing from the differing sources - a search on ebay soon shows that.

Weary - I think I described this mod on MEM - I recall at least one or two nay sayers doubting the viability of it.

I've had two sets of soft jaws for many years. The first well used and gradually diminishing in material the other still wrapped in their VIP paper.

The first were reclaimed early on by bolting slices of Hexagon bar on each jaw - a good compromise which works well but even the area they were bolted to eventually disappeared. Just about to ditch them and open that new pack I found a short length of about 1 1/2 x 1/2" BMS under the bench.

It was cut it into three lengths then a deep slot was machined in each jaw and each piece just JB welded in place without any pinning or bolting. It was left a few days to cure right through before using.

I think this was testing it - the embryo liner for an IC engine

They have been in regular use since though at one point well into it's life I thought I felt a movement, a slight give on tightening. No, must have been me as they are still in use though closely reaching another reclaim I fear.

Despite the fears of the nay sayers, the inserts have not parted company in use and have saved quite a useful accessory not to mention the cost if replacement was required.

Yep JB Weld is a useful tool to have on the bench alright

Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 20/11/2022 18:16:56

Depends where you are situated but Lacey Scott in Bury St Edmunds have regular model auctions. I would imagine there are others - Gildings did do model IC engines for instance

I'm approaching the same situation myself but not expecting much from auction house returns what with the premiums to be taken into account.

Best of luck with it

Tug