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Member postings for Tony Pratt 1

Here is a list of all the postings Tony Pratt 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 Next > Last >>
Thread: Why is everything you buy such rubbish!!
07/11/2010 17:20:08
Thousands of jobs including mine have gone east and continue to do so [latest Twinings tea}! It is not about serving you the customer with a cheaper quality product it is about making a cheaper product full stop.
Dear consumer you won't pay for quality British/American/German/French made item so you pay less for a pile of cr*p which doesn't work so therefore you are actually paying more than if you bought a decent item in the first place.
Remember "Quality remains, long after the price is forgotton". If I sound bitter good, because I am, for myself, my country and all the youngsters who won't have the joy of making something with their hands.
Tony
Thread: Stuck chuck
02/11/2010 17:05:05
Hi Mark, can you post a picture?
Tony
Thread: Home Workshop Insurance
31/10/2010 17:14:20
Thanks to both of you! Terry, looks a nasty , nasty mess after the fire, guess thats what we have insurance for. I will be looking into my needs over the next coming week and will be checking the small print carefully.
Tony
31/10/2010 11:40:10
Apologies if this has been covered before but a forum search came up with nothing. I have decided to change my home insurance from Prudential for lets say financial reasons but all the alternatives don't seem to cover fully my workshop contents [Myford Super 7, Myford VME mill plus numerous hand tools] which are in a garage extension attached to my house. Can someone please  point me in the right direction for a stand alone quote on my tools?
 
Thanks,
Tony
Thread: Threads to bottom of hole
28/10/2010 17:35:06
It really is a waste of time and effort to tap a hole right to the very bottom, you will gain very little out of the exercise and there is a very real possibility of tap breakage. Where possible drill the hole deeper than the depth of thread reqd. ie. if you want a tapped hole 12mm deep go to a depth of 15mm with the tapping drill
Tony
Thread: End mills in lathe chuck
18/10/2010 21:56:41
Very little chance of it moving if you are sensible ie don't take massive cuts and extremely fast feeds, you have got nearly total clamping area with the ER series collets so don't worry too much. I used them on industrial CNC machines and had no problem that I can recall, you will find them a lot more secure than a 3 jaw chuck.
Tony
18/10/2010 17:38:34
I agree with using a milling chuck in the internal taper but please use a draw bar
Tony
Thread: Chronos silver steel, water or oil quench?
04/10/2010 18:25:57
A water quench will give you maximum hardness and also maximum brittleness, an oil quench will give you a slightly less hard component but not by much. After hardening the job will always have to be tempered to suit the components application.
I have never heard of the oil/water combined quench or seen it mentioned in any of the tool steel manufacturers heat treat specifications and I imagine the benefits are a bit of a myth and more imagined than real.
 
Tony
Thread: Slitting Saws
29/09/2010 20:35:24
Graeme,
4" diameter cutter cutting mild steel at 100 ft/min cutting speed would need to run at about 100rpm. Give it another go and report back.
 
Tony
29/09/2010 17:35:51
Hi Graeme, bit hasty with my rpm suggestion, please ignore it until we know the material being cut.
 
Tony
29/09/2010 17:27:58
I agree with Kwil, from practical experience there is no way a slitting saw will deflect the bearings on an R8 taper. You don't state the thickness of the saw, depth of slot or work material but make sure the cutter is sharp, small cuts, slow feed and coolant is the order of the day.
If there is a lot of heat being generated you are running too fast, off the top of my head try 200rpm and don't force it through, take it gently!
 
Tony
Thread: Dangerous Practices
15/09/2010 17:23:02
As a time served Toolmaker I totally disagree that machinists just follow instructions and don't question anything. When you are training apprentices this perhaps would be the case for safety's sake but any decent machinist has to be aware of the whys and wherefores of each and every job he undertakes in order to make it in the most efficient and safe manner and hopefully not scrap too much!
I actually said to my 18 yr old son on Monday that I could only show him the basic lathe techniques and it would be up to him to build on it.
 
Tony
 
 
14/09/2010 20:36:41
Can't comment on the dangerous practice as no photos have been forth coming and I don't subscribe to ME. As to parting with a centre support I have done this a number of times, as David says just back off before it breaks through and you should have no problem. I have also used double sided tape for surface grinding Stainless Steel with great success, just keep it cool as otherwise you could have a "flyer" on your hands as the adhesive softens!
Regards,
Tony
 
 
Thread: How close can I get? Indexable turning inserts....
15/05/2010 13:16:21
I would go for the 1mm pitch tip and set the lathe to cut 26TPI, you shouldnt have a problem as long as you have a nut availiable to use as a gauge. I have turned a lot of threads on CNC lathes and even when you are using the correct tip you may have to move away from therectical depth settings to get an acceptable job.
Tony
Thread: Excel milling machines
10/04/2010 13:13:31
Hi, I can help on both counts. I was actually working on the Excel ETM 1VS 3phase Junior Turret Mill today at work. I normally work on Bridgeports etc and I find the Excel mill superior in all respects which did suprise me, it seems heavier all round and has a larger speed range 60-4200? I don't know about the prices and how they compare.
I own a Myford VME mill[not originally vari-speed] and it is a fine little machine. Myford put all new electrics on the machines they import and I think they carry out quality checks etc, but of course they are selling them at a premium price. Warco also have a good reputation.
Tony
Thread: Slip Gauges
11/03/2010 20:45:42
Hi Ray,
Chronos do an 81 piece Imperial set and a 87 piece Metric set at fairly reasonable prices depending on certification. Ebay is also a fairly fruitful source for this type of thing.
Tony
Thread: Drawing projection, first or third?
23/02/2010 21:10:01
Hi David, I work for an American aircraft interiors manufacturer and we use 3rd angle on all new projects. My son is doing an engineering design course at college and they use 1st angle almost all the time, sorry to be no help at all! I personally prefer 3rd angle but thats all it is, a personal preference. I would guess both are still widely used?
 
Tony
Thread: marking blue
20/02/2010 15:43:46
Bordeaux mixture is indeed copper sulphate [plus hydrated lime] so I am not sure if it will work for our purpose. From very distant memory I think Copper sulphate will work on cast iron but don't hold me to it, I believe the classic way of marking out castings was to cover them with a paint like substance [maybe emulsion?] and scribe the lines on that.
Geo. H. Thomas reccomends a product called Spectra colour white for castings but I'm doubtful if it is still availiable.
20/02/2010 13:11:11
Copper sulphate is hard to beat when used on steel but not too user friendly as has been mentioned. For most of my Toolmaking days I used a permanent marker which worked just fine, convenient too !
 
Tony
Thread: Knurling
01/02/2010 22:15:12
I have done a fair bit of krurling and it doesn't seem to matter what the work piece or  the krurl diameter is. As has been said before use good quality sharp knurl wheels, slowish speed and plenty of coolant. I only use a scissor type knurling tool as I don't like the idea of the lathe bearings having to resist the sideways knurling force if using only one wheel.
I start with the wheels overhanging the end of the job and tighten the scissor nut to start cutting, once it gets cutting properly the wheels seem to find their own tracking and a decent krurl appears, you can then traverse slowly to get the krurl length required.
To reiterate the krurls must be sharp and use plenty of coolant, I have tried the dab and brush method but it tends to get a bit hairy when the brush gets trapped in the krurl wheels!!
<< First < Prev 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 Next > Last >>
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