By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for DMB

Here is a list of all the postings DMB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 Next > Last >>
Thread: Silver or Stainless?
16/10/2011 00:19:30
Hi all,
If anyone wants some copper sulphate, just put the 2 words into google + you will find several suppliers. I once obtained some by mail order for testing as recommended in this thread and Ialso use it for coating steel b4 marking out.
Thread: Taps & Dies
30/09/2011 21:57:18
Hi Adam,
No I dont think it a daft question; we all have to learn everything in life at sometime. I just think I am one of the lucky older ones who were trained in basic metalwork (and woodwork) at school.
Taps are produced in Taper, Second and Plug types, each size.
The taper should be used first, the taper giving an easy lead-in to the hole to be threaded.The Second is what it says, used second, to cut a full depth thread throughout a straight - through hole. Only use a Plug to cut a full - depth thread right down to the bottom of a blind hole.
Depending upon what the threaded hole is for, I try to avoid tapping blind holes like the plague, since you run into trouble with swarf collecting in the bottom of the hole ahead of the tap. Usual advice as a cure for this is to bung up hole with grease first so tap forces it out along with swarf. I have not tried this. Sometime you have to tap a blind hole like say for studs in a cylinder block.
Hope above helps.
Regards,
John.
Thread: Honey pump
27/09/2011 14:49:51
Hullo Clive,
Just a thought, there is what is known as `Catering Grade` of Stainless also known I think as `316` Grade. Maybe a good idea to stick to this. I think same principle applies to plastics but am unable to offer any help on that.
Regards,
John.
PS luvly stuff! Use it as a cold medicine - any ol` excuse will do!
Thread: Centre punch size
25/09/2011 22:03:52
Wolfie,
Like JasonB said,dot punch lightly first, check its spot on then use centre punch with a slightly heavier bump with a small hammer. Note, you dont need to hit it hard and create a huge bomb crator and when using the dot punch, if its not exactly where it should be, lean punch over at an angle, pointing in the direction that the punch mark needs to be moved and give it a very light tap, check re-positioning OK then hold upright and give it a harder tap.
John.
Thread: Hacksaw blade tension
13/09/2011 23:11:01
Hi Terryd,
 
I have also coloured the tops of the flutes of all drills and taps and a dab of colour on all dies, same side as size stamping. Funnily enough, my Metric gear has been coloured red same as you did. BA =white. ME32T=blue band. ME 40T=blue and yellow bands.
BSW=orange band. BSF =red and yellow bands. Brass 26T = yellow band.
Metric drills=red. No. series=green. Letter series= yellow. Fraction series unmarked.
When I get around to it, I will colour my Metric endmills and slotcutters red, leaving Imperial sizes unmarked.
Many moons ago, drills came chemically(?) blued with a silvery band on the shank where the size was clearly stamped. Now, metric drills come all over matt black, badly or illegibly stamped with sizes if stamped at all. Have the beancounters banned "quality"?
My back entrance gate, outhouse both have coloured padlocks, together with the 2 on my workshop door, all with matching coloured keys. So much quicker and more convenient.
Regards,
 
John
13/09/2011 10:09:32
Terryd,
Re my prev. post about colouring sawblades and frames. Not original, just a follow-on from school metalwork days where all the handle ends of files were coloured according to type, e.g., I believe all smooth cut files were painted white. Think Mr Stevens used blue green and red for other cuts. I break up sets of allen keys and spanners and keep on/near the mill only those spanners and allen keys which fit said mill, colouring them all blue same as mill. Saves an awful lot of frustration trying to find misplaced tools on one or other maches/benches.
John.
12/09/2011 23:18:36
I had a tubular hacksaw frame years ago and really liked the comfortable pistol grip. However, I just left it tensioned (and one blade for all jobs!) Over time, the whole eggshell thin alli handle gradually bent, so that I kept tightening it up just a bit more till no more washers could fit under the wing nut. I will personally throttle any neighbour who chucks their hacksaw at my cat, John Stephenson.
I now have a collection of hacksaw and junior hacksaw frames, each holding blades of different TPI. I use the little car touch-up paint tubes to mark all sorts of things, in this case, one end of every blade has a dab of colour indicating its TPI. The painted end of all blades is at the back of the teeth, nearest the pistol grip handle, when correctly fitted.
Frames are marked Yellow for use on Brass and other non-ferrous jobs and unmarked ofr ferrous work.
I dont use the bent wire type junior hacksaw frame, only the type with a knurled tensioning screw next to the handle. Again, a yellow frame one for non-ferrous.
Thread: degreasing
11/09/2011 22:40:13
Any good using jollop sold for cleaing muck off car engines? I believe its actually called, "Gunk"
Thread: Miracle
08/09/2011 23:20:46
Paul,
I`m uncertain about your remark that your welder used to "eat" 15A fuses. Does this mean that you now use 3/16" nails in place of fuses? If so, be careful about fires - a fuse is meant to protect the wiring circuit from overheating. Why cant you tap into the cooker circuit? Only thing is, dont try using cooker and welder at same time!
John.
Thread: LMS Whistles
08/09/2011 13:41:59
Hi Stuart,
I well remember the hooter type whistle from when I was young - very deep sound.
I think that you need a considerably longer tube to make that deep note - look at musical instruments that rely on a blast of air. Try to read up LBSC`s instructions for whistle making. I can tell you that he said to keep the end open with a tight fitting piston on a rod protruding from the end of the pipe, so that you can adjust the effective length to get the desired sound. You might also do well to test on steam, not compressed air.
Regards,
John.
Thread: Content
06/09/2011 15:40:56
One reason why David can pack a lot into his day is that he works from home and doesnt waste 1-3 hours a day getting ot and from work!
I would like to see larger photos in MEW instead of some which are little more than thumbprints. If piccie is big enough, I can view the `blobs and gadgets` on the mill or in the background. Its surprising what ideas one can get from how others have arranged a part of their workshop.
Still like a pig in muck even after 50 years when ME arrives and more recently, MEW.
Thread: Calculating Feed Rate using Myford G-box
05/09/2011 12:23:12
How about if Anna shows us all what she`s got, in terms of a workshop, that is!
Thread: Content
05/09/2011 09:09:14
Perhaps the consistently higher secondhand prices asked for MEW against ME, shows how much more MEW is valued by readers. Also, it seems that the odd back copies wanted are difficult to obtain without paying a high price to a commercial outfit.
04/09/2011 22:18:59
I started buying ME when it was weekly back in June 1962 and ever since. Seen quite a few Editors come and go, some mediocre, some good, some very good. Also had MEW from first issue. An excellent mag which somehow continues to improve, David building on whats gone before, extremely successfully.
Pity the next Editor of both mags - he (or even she!) will find David a very hard act to follow. Well done David.
John.
Thread: Magazines for sale
04/09/2011 22:10:38
Hi Lee,
Iam interested in 1920 to1930.
I am in Brighton - how close are you? Would it be feasible to personally collect?
How much do you want for them?
John.
Thread: Health
30/08/2011 12:43:14
Sorry to read that David is ill. I wish him speedy recovery.
John
Thread: Suitable high speed spur gears
30/08/2011 09:40:36
Try Muffett of Tunbridge Wells. They used to advertise regularly in Model Engineer years ago. Last time I checked, they had a website.
Thread: Health
30/08/2011 09:25:02
My guess was right: I have just clicked the links on both of them and they both have bases in various American States.
Right places and times for everything/horses for courses etc.
Come on David, chuck `em out!
30/08/2011 09:19:30
I understood that this forum is for the sole subject of Model Engineering, not including medical items and least of all, blatant medical company advertising, For Free.
I think David should take this down at his earliest opportunity.
Thread: So, now i have removed the Clarkson chuck should i stick with it?
25/08/2011 16:10:15
nic,
If you keep the Clarkson chuck, cut a `washer` of thin flat plastic to fit inside the damping ring. I used a cut out of the red plastic lid on Nescafe tins. Should you get that damping ring jammed up tight, it will be much easier to undo with the plastic interposed.
John
<< First < Prev 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 Next > Last >>
Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Shopping Partners
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate