Member postings for Baz

Chris looks to me like a cap head that someone has rounded the hexagons off.

Before throwaway tips became popular we had to use Wimet brand brazed on carbide tools, these were sharpened with the usual green grit wheel then put on a diamond lap, a fine diamond wheel to put a decent edge on. When the tool became dull it was just touched up on the diamond lap. We didn’t have microscopes or bother polishing the tools, just grind to shape and lap the front and side clearances and a quick rad applied, we didn’t faff about, we were on bonus, that was just how it was done.

Neil I think you would be pushing your luck trying to broach those sizes of external hex with the little Hemmingway tool. I have made a couple of the Hemmingway rotary broaches and they work extremely well, a HSS broach 1/16 inch square has broached 1000+ holes without any problems but of course for external broaching your broach will have to have the 2 degree taper internally and that may be problematic, certainly would be for me, depth of form is also a limiting factor on this little tool. I made mine about 5 years ago and I thought how good the instructions and drawings were.

I would go for a finer grit because you don’t need to remove much material, the 320 should be a good compromise, if you can afford two get a coarse and a fine.

Don’t really understand why you need a solid stop when you have readouts on cross slide but if you must have one there is a hole for clamping travelling steady down to and a couple of tee slots on the cross slide, surely you can cobble up a stop to suit.

Wonder if it is the nuts on the raising block, jacking the bed up?

Postcodes are ok until you move, whenever you move you have to re mark everything.

I stamp or etch my National Insurance number on anything valuable, the number stays with you until you die and the woodentops should be able to recognise it.

Most probably metric threads, chap in the club has a Silvercrest loco and is having trouble with his safety valves, the thread on those is 12mm x 1mm pitch.

Breaking the rules on two counts, using side of wheel and more importantly no guard, not something that should be promoted in my opinion. If you must grind chamfers a belt linisher could do the job far more safely

Scott welcome to the world of Model Engineering where every set of drawings has errors, no matter how old they are they will not have been corrected.

Done my time back in the early 70s and we were always told to set on centre height or a couple of thou below, boring tools were only raised so that the bottom of the bar would enter the hole without rubbing, parting off was always done at centre height.

Used one on a Bridgeport many many years ago, horrible thing, we only used that mill if we really had to, all our other Bridgeport’s had Anilam or Newall readouts. Never liked Heidenhains CNC control system either.

Dave that is a beautiful little shaper, I think Paragon paints do a nice machinery grey. I have got an Elliott 10m and have never regretted buying it.

Gabro do two sizes of box pan folder, a two foot and a three foot version, the smaller is ideal for a model engineers workshop.

This subject has been done to death in the last few months, you might be best using the search bar above.

Seem to remember that Lathes UK do flat belts, other way is to get a poly vee belt and turn it inside out, car timing belts etc, if you cannot get exact length perhaps a jockey wheel to tension?

Jelly now you have got a 200mm high storage space as well.

JA most capstan lathes used Coventry dieheads in the turret for threading, if a rolled thread was required something like a Fette rolling head was used.

It is two two inch diameter holes, and the horizontal overarm fits through them, also used for the slotting head and the vertical head. This enables the vertical head to be swivelled about 45 degrees left and right.