Member postings for Robert Dodds

Ignast,
I would advise against using any plain MT2 MT3 adaptor because you would lose the drawbar locking of the arbor carrying the slitting cutter and side thrust is such that your slitter and arbor would sooner or later walk out of the adaptor (with obvious disastrous results).
I'm not aquainted with Clive's releasing ring but this may help but only if it provides that positive hold of the whole cutter assembly into the spindle.
Depending on your detail requirements it sounds like an MT3 blank end adaptor machined to suit would be your best bet

Bob D

All good info but you don't get the first / previous bit at the top until you've got multiple pages so right now you don't see them on this page of the thread but stay with it and have fun.

Bob D

Michael,

Your point is well made It's a technique i've never needed to use before. With the extra wall thickness on my nose adaptor I chose to complete both threads in a single chucking leaving only a truing skim to size on the Adept after parting off and truncated threads were not a consideration for 3/8 BSF.

I'll go away and reconsider my position in the local Bodgers Society.

Bob D

James, Michael,

Don't underestimate the problems with truncated threads at the sizes involved and with limited or no screwcutting capability.
To be effective the 1/2" tapped hole in the adaptor needs truncating as well as the O/D of the spindle nose. Without a single point screwcutting capability it would require a reduction on O/D of a 1/2" tap by careful grinding to produce the truncated thread in the adaptor. Its very likely that if free hand ground the tap would run off and ultimately affect the concentricity of the chuck.
After our esteemed editors work on the Mega Adept I was persuaded to fit 14mm metric chucks to a Super Adept but there the nose thread is 3/8" so I had plenty of metal to work with an adaptor.
My cautionary tale here is with regard to the register diameters of different chucks. One new off Flee bay and another from RDG and I got one of each of !5 and 16mm register diameters with different spigot depths as well.
Needless to say I made the adaptor to suit the first, longer one so the later one butted against thread rather than the register face of the adaptor.
So, Check out the detail of the threads and register diameters in your proposed chucks before you buy.

Bob D

The 2 foot spacing of the wall brackets that John W1 mentions is important to prevent sag of the shelves under load. I couldn't pitch that close, having a timber frame at 4 foot spacing but got round it by bolting a length of bedstead angle to back and front edges of the shelves. As a bonus they give a nice ledge to stop stuff falling off!

Bob D

Russ,

You don't give much info regarding the use or loading on your gears but HPC do sell moulded plastic gears for £3 to £5 each and 75mm diameter will come for £12 so if your tooth loading is appropriate you could do worse than look at some ready made plastic gears.

Bob D

Sorry,

I thought dimensions would be first but then SHMBO says I always work to rule!

Here's a photo, hope it helps to identify the lonely soul.

Regards Bob D

Hi,

Iv'e been stumbling over this steady for too long but don't know what its off.

Can anyone recognise what it could be off from the dimensions below

Would be most grateful if you could identify a suitable bed for it to sit on

Bob D

Merl,

You can get a lot of info re G scale/gauge from searching wikipedia for just that.
I see that ebay in the UK is awash with locos and rolling stock for less than 100 pounds but it is electric and I reckon you should check out running systems with your neighbours just in case you build a steamer that blows the power or signal system that they may have in place.
G scale have a variety of online forums that may offer you more relevant info.

Regards Bob D

Izaak,

As you are using a jewelers saw and seeing that they seem to take blades of almost any length why not try breakikng off the two offending ends of your coping blades so that they can be inserted into the clamps of the saw.
BTW I was amazed at how small real jewelers saw blades can be,.006 x .012 and passing through a No 80 hole. Coping saws are positively HUGE in comparison.

Bob D

Try Fred Aldous Mcr search eyelets and they have 3mm in black, silver or brass and lots of other sizes too

Bob D

Neil,

I see its ambidexterous and also equiped for taper turning so it upstages the Super Adept on both counts

Bob D

Irritating to the point of having a very negative effect. I think you could lose some of your regular forum members , particularly those who only log in when they have something to say.

Bob D

Steve,

As a declared beginner you should know that there is a difference between the "depth of cut" that you asked about and "depth of thread" because most of the answers you have had refer to the latter.
Depth of thread is a fraction of the pitch that you are using and varies a little depending on the specific thread form you are trying to produce.
Depth of Cut is the amount you advance the tool at each pass across the work and will vary depending on lots of parameters, your lathe's power and size, the material you are cutting, the type of tooling you are using, be it HSS or Carbide and lots more variables but it is most unlikely that you would have a depth of cut equal to the depth of thread. In other words Don't try to cut the thread in one pass!!

Bob D

pgk,

I've just seen a new track rod end for under 7 pounds on mister-auto.co.uk. I'm not sure if it would fit your mower but there are likely to be other variants. It is probable that it is a standard taper if it looks like a regular track rod end. At 7 pounds each is it not worth buying 2 (if you can get one to fit OK) and then use a length of threaded rod (the sort Screwfix sell by the metre length) and replace the whole lot for 20 quid or so.
The sample I looked at was a 1980 Ford Cortina 1.3 but I think a phone call to any of the Auto wholesale traders would get you some useful cheap parts.

Bob D

I'm lucky enough to have got every one of the MEW magazines so I was going to pass on the 25 year special until I saw it lying on the counter as I was picking up my daily paper. When i was told it was being returned to distributors as not wanted I took pity on it and have quite enjoyed recalling Neil's choice of classic tools from the last 25 years and comments from some of the earlier editors.
Tonight, however my eyes went to the promotion of the special at the home page of this site and, in small print and subject to change, I see there should be a FREE pull out plan for a Dill Grinding Machine with the issue
I didn't get one so my question is : Was it dropped from publication or has the shop (or distributor) lost it somewhere along the road ?
Who should I be chasing after?

Bob D

Ed,

There is a telephoone no on Cyrus P Bickerstaffs face book page and lots of photos of his work.

Bob D

Its centres that are hard, for obvious reasons. But arbours or arbors are soft, to do your own thing with them !

Bob D

Blackcat,
take a look at RDG ebay 0MT arbour with 3/8 x 24 thread / 0MT 9.95 . The only shortcoming is if you rerequiring the thin end of 0MT. I did and had to taper turn the arbor between centres but it is soft and free cutting so a decent finish is no problem. 3/8 x 24 thread is standard for some small drill chucks in 1/4 6mm size. I got mine of an old Bridges pistol drill.

Bob D

Hi Rainbows

Just been and checked over my Adept and I think your 0.082 is really 0.0833333 which is the pitch of a 12tpi leadscrew. That fits with all the pre metric conversations that there has been on this thread. My recollection of some lathes produced through the transitional period for metrication was that cross slides were fitted with some sort of gear train, maybe an epicyclic cluster (but I never got round to stripping one out) to speed up the dial relative to the spindle and give a mechanical conversion from imperial threaded feed screws to a near metric 50 x 0.02mm on a speeded up subsidary dial.
I think this could be a way to get a sensible scale from a 12tpi leadscrew, perhaps using a 5:3 ratio that would give 0.050 per rev of the dial and also match the pitch and dial ratio that is on the cross slide and top slide (20 tpi.).

I will try to set out a sketch of this speeder drum in the next few days.
Bob D