Member postings for Terryd

hi Lee,

HSS tools are relatively easy to grind using a cheap B&Q grinder to begin with. There are only about 4 basic tool shapes plus a parting tool (but that comes later - a bench vice and hacksaw make a good substitute in the earluy sstages),

Best regards

Terry

The thread I was refferring to is here: There are many others on the subject.

T

Hi Dunc,

Depends on the size of the boiler. Up to about 3" diameter I use a 19mm plumbers torch. The secret is not to let heat escape and use refractory materials to surround your work behind the work so as to retain and reflect the precious heat.

There was another thread recently about this subject and I was able to visit and help the guy who was having difficulty. I tend to feed the joint with a long rod and let the liquid solder follow the heat around the joint. Make sure that the joint is well fluxed and the area on both sides of the joint is protected with Tippex which will prevent the wasteful spreading of expensive soolder where it doesn't need to be.

Best regards

Terry

Hi Ian,

Welcome - as someone already said, don't be afraid to ask questions, even the most basic are answered honestly with a fair amount of knowledge and experience behind it.

I am puzzled as to why you intend to try to scrape the ways. As David said above the ways on Chinese machines are ground to good standards and scraping will cause inaccuracies if not done properly. As for stripping down, I have had several Chinese machines of different make and all that was needed was to clean off the anti-corrosion waxes with white spirit followed by a wipe down with meths and then lubrication. I check gearboxes etc in case of retained casting sand but have never found any at all not one grain.

As for adjustment, again i have been satisfied with the very good setting of gibs on slideways. With backlash, you will always get an amount on any machine tool which relies on plain screw threads rather than recirculating ball screws. It is a fact of life in manual machining which you have to work around in your normal machining techniques and methods, it is not difficult to overcome the effects with a bit of practice. CNC work is a different matter.

Enjoy learning to use your lathe to it's full extent in making stuff rather than worrying about tuning it unnecessarily.. I doubt that a Sieg C3 would need much work before using it to create some lovely work.

Best regards and seasons greetings,

Terry

Hi Siddley,

Have you seen the Gingery book on building a lathe? There is a build on another forum, I think it was HMEM but I may be wrong. See here for another build and here for a video of one being used. if you Google 'Gingery Lathe' there is quite a lot on hth internet. May not be your cup of tea but there could be some ideas that others have alrady worked out and problems overcome.

Regards

Terry

Diving bottles are indeed pressurised to around 2000 - 3500 psi, however they are made to extremely strict regualtions and have very many hours of development and specialised manufacturing techniques behind them. Aluminium bottles especially are susceptible to stress cracking and have to be tested regularly for cracks.

All of these pressure vessels are almost all professionally made to exacting standards, even air rifles, I would not trust home made devices to these pressures.

Best regards

Terry

I once worked at a large engineering company that designed and made large stainless steel pressure vessels including some for the nuclear industry. there are all sorts of parameters that you probably haven't even dreamed of. An important one is that at the pressure you are proposing the tube will expand in diameter like a balloon. however end plugs will not so the threads will have much less engagement and will possibly blow out. Hence any thread sould be on the outside and caps fitted.

As has been mentioned that is also the problem of failure due the fatigue stresses caused by the cycling of the pressure. It will not give a warning before it fails.

Whereabouts in the country are you? I need to know so that I can avoid it for when the inevitable takes place. The Mayans had nothing compared to this idea.

Seasons greetings

Terry

Hi Bob,

It was devastating but as it's detached there was no damage to any other building or persons. Most tools are of course replaceable but many had been collected over a long time, some I made as apprentice pieces, many I bought and some I inherited like yourself. Ihad collected many sets of taps and dies over the 50 years or so which I will never replace now and a superb collection of woodworking planes, including traditional wooden planes and moulding planes together with many other tools. I have now decided to become totally metric.  There has been an ongoing argument with the buider about problems, esp[ecially the floor.  They have now decided to dig out the concrete floor (6m x 7m) and replace it, that is another couple of months gone in the new year

I am considering a set of scales for my milling machine and was up at Arc chatting to Ketan and spotted these ones that you have. Let me know how you get on with them as I have a birthday in May, too late for christmas now ,

Best regards and seasons greetings,

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 20/12/2012 15:32:47

There would not have been a problem with "Myford Compatible" or 'Made to fit Myford'. They cannot call them 'Myford' because they are not. In the same way that a Nissan cannot be labelled as a Bentley. Copyright and Trademarks have been protected snce the year dot to prevent forgery (tell that to the Chinese!).

Seasons greetings,

Terry

Hi Ady,

Why do you say that lathes from that era, even in a brassworks, wouldn't have dials?

Regards

Terry

Hi Ian,

I'm not sure about other additives but it is a dry (but goes on wet for penetration) teflon based lubricant for applications including extreme pressure such as machine slideways. I can't find the actual data sheet at the moment but it is very similar to this one.

Yes it does help to keep the machine clean, I use an aerosol based one and it lasts. Just my own opinions based on experience,

Regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 19/12/2012 02:11:55

Hi Hansrudolf,

thanks for pointing that out, I actually meant 'how big the gear teeth are', but of course this is also related to the size of the gear diameter. For example a 60t gear of 0.833mod. would be 50 mm diameter, while a 60t gear of 1.5dp would be 90 mm diameter, hence the size of the gear wheel is relative to the module for a given number of teeth.

I apologise for my omission and oversight and hope that I have not irritated you so much as to spoil your Christmas celebrations.

Best regards and seasons greetings,

Terry

Hi Jason,

Thanks for the kind comment. sorry about the length of this posting but you did ask .

Cycloidal and involute are two types of geometric curve. A gear tooth in profile can have part of one or other of these shapes. Gears in mesh should have the same profile to prevent wear..

Imagine a bicycle wheel, the tyre valve at the bottom. When you roll the wheel along until the valve is at the bottom again. The curve that the valve makes is a 'cycloid'. If you roll the wheel around a circle it is an epicycloid, roll it inside a circle and it is a hypocycloid. clock gears are usually epi- and hypocycloids using a bit of the curve as the profile:

Cycloid

Epicycloid

Hypocycloid

Cycloidal gears - note the use of a bit of a cycloidal curve for the profile

To make an involute tie a pencil to the end of a thread on a fixed cotton reel then draw a line keeping the thread taut and as it unwinds you will draw an involute. Involute gears are the usual profile for power gears.

Involute

Involute gears using a bit of the curve for the profile of the tooth

These gear profiles are used because the surfaces roll together rather than slide over each other so wear is minimized.

Hope that helps a bit.

Best regards and seasons greetings,

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 18/12/2012 10:48:32

Hi James,

The size of a gear is determined by the 'Diametral pitch' (used for imperial gears) or 'Module' (metric gears). The diametral pitch is the number of teeth per inch of its diameterm Module is DP / 25.4.

Of course it's not quite that simple (it never is) as the pitch diameter of a gear is not the same as it's overall diameter. Instead of 2 gears, imagine two wheels in their place running rim to rim, their diameters are the pitch diameters. To make gears you add projections to the rims of the wheels - the 'addendum', but in order to allow them to mesh you have to make cutouts to clear the new teeth - this is called the 'dedendum', but the pitch diameter is still the same. See, clear as mud.

The link below gives a simple introduction and may clarify my poor description above

for a simple introduction to gears and modules - which determines the number of teeth on a particular gear size see here. However they use the term 'circumference' which is the same as 'pitch diameter'.

For some more complex references see here.

Ivan Law's book 'Gears and Gear Cutting' is a good basic introduction - available from Amazon or MHS.

Regards

Terry

Because it is intended solely for anti corrosion purposes, not lubrication and will attract and retain a lovely abrasive mix of swarf, grit and other unsavoury particles, Yummy

T

It has been used successfully for centuries by some of the best metalworkers and woodworkers in history, so I'm quite happy to use it as I have for over 5 years with no problem.

But who am I to say.

T

Edited By Terryd on 17/12/2012 22:00:38

Hi Chris,

Congrats on getting your first lathe. Don't worry too much about the legendary casting sand, I have had none in any of my Chinese Machines - 4 so far - even my ultra cheapo Seig C0 was good and clear of grit. After inspection I just cleaned off the anti rust grease (usually lanolin wax or similar) with white spirit and then alcohol to get it spotless and lubricate with a suitable lubricant such as has been suggested. I have found no problem with the factory adjustments of gib keys etc.

The reason motor oil is frowned upon is that it contains detergents, which in a vehicle helps to keep the sludge etc in suspension until it can be filtered out, as well as other additives. In a lathe there is no filter and the lack of detergent allows the sludge and damaging particles to fall to the bottom of the gearbox where they are relatively harmless. A few years of occasional use probably will cause no problem but for the low cost of suitable oil ask yourself - 'is it worth the risk'? You won't know until your bearings wear out and then blame the manufacturer. 3-in-1 is, in my opinion too low a viscosity to be of much use in a machine (except sewing machines etc with relatively light loading), but I stand to be corrected.

Copaslip is really just an anti sieze grease with a high melting point so that it can be used where parts are to be disassembled infrequently or in high temperature situations such as the sliding surfaces of brake pads and shoes (only a smear) where little actual movement takes place. It is anti corrosive so can be used on screw threads to prevent siezing, it has little use for greasing where movement takes place. To quote the manufacturer - "Copaslip is an anti-sieze pre-assembly compound for use in any temperature from sub-zero to 1100ºC " see here for the data sheet

Personally, I use high pressure dry lubricants for my slideways - including cross slide etc and in some other areas of my machines, they don't attract particles that the heavier oils and trad. greases do, and if it's good enough for NASA, it's good enough for me - and it's my problem if they fail to do the job, but so far no problem. They are not cheap but neither was my lathe. I use recommended machine oils (or 'equivalent' as they say) for some oiling points.

I use camellia oil for rust proofing when leaving the machines for any length of time just a wipe over is enough. The Japanese have used it for protecting tools and swords for centuries and it works.

Best regards and enjoy your aquisition,

Terry

Surely one has to do very little real design to copy parts for 'high end vintage cars', a bit of drawing - yes, design - no. Does the original poster even understand what 'design' really involves?

Hi KWIL,

Why spoil the fun?

Terry

Hi John,

I just wonder why someone with a 'trusted team' using 'British machines' who work to high 'tolerances' is doing buying Myford gears from RDG in the first place .

As far as British machines are concerned I remember buying British cars, motorbikes, washing machines etc etc. Not always great stuff all leaving much to be desired. it was often about the same as the poor Chines/Indian stuff available now, remember the Morris Marina/Ital anyone?. Take off those heavily rose tinted spectacles occasionally when looking back with 'regret'.

I believe even Dyson doesn't have their stuff made in the UK any longer

Thanks for your earlier P.M. John, I'll reply properly as soon as I can.

Best regards

Terry

Hi John,

A jobbers HSS drill these days is usually made from cobalt high speed steel and TiN is simply a coating for HSS drills, not an alloy. See here,

Regards

Terry