Member postings for Terryd

Hi Clive,

well done, but could I ask where you are measuring the bend radius from, i.e. is it the outside radius, inside radius or the centre line of the tube radius?

Best regards

Terry

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Hi Derek,

You are quite correct, the 20V has a dovetail column and quite good Z axis clearance. It isd basically the same as the Warco WM16. I have another companies version of the larger machine equivalent to the WM18 but had the smallwer machine previously. They are company labelled Weiss machines made in China and mine have both been excellent with no problems at all. In fact very capable machines for the price.

Best regards

Terry

Hi Clive,

This may help,

Best regards

Terry

Hi Mark,

The 'old shafts' you mention may be higher carbon steel which is a PITA to turn on a relatively light machine. They would turn ok using a large professional machine with proper carbide tools, but a hobby machine, I'm not so sure. I would suggest getting a bit of free cutting steel of a known composition, leaded is even better if not to be welded, and trying that.

The shafts are probably EN8 (080m40) , a medium carbon steel for shafts etc, while a good machining free cutting steel is EN1 (230m07). That may be one of your problems.

Best regards

Terry

Hi Ed,

You've just raised an old memory for me, we used this type of wood block bender when I worked with the electricians as an apprentice. To use the 'bender' one end of it was rested on the ground and the conduit pushed through the hole and the 'bender' held at an angle to the ground . The conduit would then be pulled down just a little against the angled block putting a small part of the bend into the conduit. The conduit would be pushed further through a fraction and bent a little more. This was repeated until the required bend was acheived.  For reverse bends the tube woud then be rotated by the correct angle and the process repeated.

I much preferred using this method than the bending machine (we called it a cripple for some reason) as I had better control of the bend, especially when complex bends or joggles were needed. It took a bit of planning for the complex stuff though. The other end of the hole would also be carved, but in a 'trumpet' shape this was to allow areverse or complex bends or when such shapes as joggles were needed.

Happy memories,

Hi Clive,

In my experience a 1:1 bend is impossibe to achieve except by the cut and shut method, which Michael suggested, or other methods of fabrication.  We produced some very nice tight bends on work in this way on thin walled steel tube around 25mm diameter, and as Eric Morecambe used to say, "you can't see the join"

Best regards,

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 06/11/2012 06:44:10

Hi Rod,

I always make a simple wooden wall mounted rack e.g. sometimes holes in a suitable length of say 1 1/2" x 3/4"with another piece below to support the end of the file, i.e. the file is not supported by its handle. Depending on the number of files I have and the space available. Are they in a drawer, in a rack on the wall, in a cupboard. What size are they, what profile? E.g. flat ,hand, warding, three square, round, square, needle files etc,

All of these factors will decide what you need to do, there is no one solution all situations are different.

Best regards

Terry

Hi Mark,

Is your machine new or pre owned? The tool should cut well if it is sharp, on centre and not too high a feed rate. I have been machining for many years and prefer well sharpened HSS although I realise many prefer carbide tooling, usually indexable with replaceable tips.

Here is an example of some turning on a old Boxford using Hand ground HSS tools.  The saddle was hand fed.  The tool was perfectly on centre height, you can click on the pictures for larger view:

There must be something wrong with your technique or your machine set up or even the material you are using, try to get some free cutting mild steel or aluminium rather than any old stuff from the scrapbox You should eliminate possible problems one at a time. If you can, get an experienced machinist to demonstrate, if not you could join a local club or try to find a local evening class, they still exist in some areas.

Let us have more information.

Best regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 05/11/2012 17:35:49

Eric Whittles original engine is very simply wired:-

Hi Sid,

I have full access from 2001 to date no problem,

Regards

Terry

Hi All,

I forgot to say that the pictures are all available in my photo albums for those interested, and thanks KWIL I should have remembered that, it was a real pleasure meeting him and yourself at the exhibition.

Regards

T

Hi,

A google search found this.

This society may be a better place to ask your question, It was probably on their stand that you saw the model.

Regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 04/11/2012 06:40:39

Hi Bob,

Thinking again about the problem, if you could leave the connector a little larger to have a complete hole as John suggests and the loading is not too high then soft solder (see CuP alloys page I sent) would be more than adequate. The connector could then be filed down to the rod if necessary. That way only low heat is needed and there would be no cleaning necessary as with Loctite.

Regards

Terry

Hi Doug,

I may go down teh clamping route initially. Thanks for the information.

Best regards

Terry

Hi Bob,

I'm with Ian and Mick on this one. Silver solder is the way to go. with such a fine job. There is a lot of information here which may help you.  There is some interesting information here, especially the advice to post heat the job to prevent cracking.

Best regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 03/11/2012 09:11:17

Hi all,

I am about to fit a new vertical scale to my milling machine and need to drill the scale to connect to the quill. Is there anything I should know before starting, will normal HSS drills do the job?

Thanks in advance

Regards

Terry

Hi Clive and all,

I forgot to mention that the pictures are clickable

Terry

Hi Again,

While there I was introduced to another type of parting tool by a member of SMEE (whose name I didn't get - much to my shame) the rear end of the parting bit is allowed to float a little in its groove while it is clamped in the front half. The rear half of the tool is clamped into the tool holder and if the tool tries to dig in the front half deflects by the dint of the central split thus preventing dig in, but is then pulled back by the natural spring in the metal.

I thought you might be interested. I'm sorry about the quality but it is actually a picture of a picture

Best regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 02/11/2012 17:16:14

Hi all,

Here are a few pictures of the tangential parting tool made by Chris Stephens, I took these at the Sandown show today 2nd November 2012. The show appeared to be a little sparse this year but it may have been my perception but I didn't see any of the major machine dealers. Enjoyable all the same as I wasn't out to add to my machine collection.

I tried to get a few different views to give an idea of the tool. Sorry but I forgot to add a size reference but at the time I got there it was a little busy.

Hope these are ok

Best regards

Terry

Hi Michael,

I have just been watching a few episodes of 'The Ascent of Man' presented By Bronowski in hthe1970s. Perhaps you remember it? He was a quiet and dignified presenter, but despite English being his second language he puts over a huge enthusiasm and deep knowledge of his subject. No dumbing down of his subject matter in those days in order to popularise the subject but in its day it gained a huge following. It is now respected as one of the best ever science/cultural programmes.

Mind you they did like to use a lot of music evin in those days, but I didn't mind the odd bit of pink Floyd.

Best regards

Terry