Member postings for Roger Vane

Thanks Diane - I've sent you a PM

Regards, Roger

Good morning All

I've been trying to contact David Clark (DC 1) for the last three weeks or so. Have sent him a couple of emails which have not been answered.

Is anyone else having the same problem? Does anyone know of any problems?

Regards

Roger

There are dressing sticks capable of dressing diamond and cbn wheels - this Company list medium and fine...

**LINK**

Hope this helps.

Regards

Hi Beesa

I bought mine from the 'old' Reeves, and I see that Reeves 2000 still list it, see **LINK**

Regards

Hi Mick

Had a look at their website and it appears to be available in 1 litre tins. Thin with alcohol up to 5% - sounds interesting.

Data sheet available at **LINK**  No mention of brass though, but as it's a 'bodyshop' product that may be why.  Not too many brass cars about.

If you decide to go down that route I'd be interested to know how you get on.

Good luck.

Edited By Roger Vane on 14/09/2013 18:30:54

I've used Acid 8 in an aerosol - the primer adhered very well to bronze, in fact I didn't bother to mask certain areas and have had a lot of trouble removing it. As Jason says, the product is quite thick and can cover up detail.

Although the product worked well, I found that the aerosol was difficult to use - the button was very stiff, almost 'all or nothing' and I didn't feel that I had control of the paint. I didn't find it possible to apply a mist coat, but then maybe I use an airbrush rather than an aerosol and obviously you can't compare the two. If anything, the can is too large and that makes it even more difficult to control. All in all, a good product but shame about the can. It's also expensive if you plan to use a lot of it.

Hope this helps.

I've read the various recent posts regarding the future of MEW, the quality of articles submitted and into which magazine the 'Universal Grinder' should appear. It is now time to throw my hat into the ring and make a few observations.

Everyone seems to be knocking MEW and it's content, and maybe it's not perfect, but the magazine will only ever be what the readership dictates - it is they that supply the articles. As has been said many times before, DC can only publish what he receives. So, for those of you that are not happy with the content, why not have a go at writing some articles? Also, as MEW is basically a workshop biased magazine, it can never have the same wide range of potential subject matter as ME, so the range of articles is somewhat limited and repeats are more likely - however, even 'repeats' can offer a differing view of the subject matter.

For those of you that have submitted articles which have not been published, rather than moaning about it, why not ask "when, or if, they will see the light of day". After all, you will probably have spent many hours producing the article, so surely you have the right to know if it's acceptable or not, and the likely publication date. If it's not acceptable you always have the option to offer it elsewhere.

On the subject of articles, there has been much comment about the quality of articles published in MEW. I've had a couple of articles published, and have some more in the pipeline. Despite the criticism from some quarters, it is not an easy task - for example, at what level do you pitch the article? Do you want to attract the beginner or the more experienced worker? I would suggest ideally both, and so I try to pitch my articles for readers of average experience and ability, so that the beginner can advance their skills and hopefully the more experienced can also gain some ideas. That approach will, of course, be considered wrong by some people. As the old saying goes - you can't please all of the people all of the time.

Believe me, considering the hours spent producing articles, this is no cash cow as some people have suggested - there are drawings to be prepared, photographs to be taken and descriptions to be written up, as well as making the thing in the first place. For those of you who hold this view, my advice would be to try writing an article.

So, to those of you who knock MEW and it's content, rather than cancelling your subscriptions, how about determining it's future in a more positive way. Write some articles that suit your interests because the subject matter is obviously not being covered. Alternatively, why not ask DC to commission articles - after all he has access to both the readership and the authors.

Finally, to the subject of the 'Universal Grinder' - I say "please publish it". To me it makes no difference if it's published in ME or MEW, although I must admit it's good to see a limited amount of workshop articles back in ME.

Rant over - back to the workshop.

Some more questions, just to add to the general confusion ....

If I were to subscribe to the 'print + digital edition' I may well download / store / print these using my PC. If I then subsequently cancel my subscription (for whatever reason), will I still be able to access those editions that I've already downloaded? Is there any means by which the pocket mag reader checks that my subscription is still current, and ceases to function if it isn't?

The latest posts that I'm reading suggest that the digital archive will be added to and accessible just as at present - so why go down the new route, or am I missing the point?

To me, the notice is far from clear as to what you can, and cannot do with the new digital edition.

As a humble PC user (as opposed to iPad, iPhone, etc), I need some answers before spending my cash and signing up ....

How do I download and store these editions (including the whole archive) to my Windows 7 PC? (As far as I am aware 'apps' are a feature of Windows 8 and not previous versions). How do I extract and print selected pages from that download?

I think that we all need some more details.

Hi Roy

Looks like a nice job - very pleased to see that you've made it.

I like the modifications - great idea if you want to change index wheels and easier to adjust to eliminate the backlash.

Replacing the keyway with the grubscrew makes the whole manufacturing process easier and quicker, particularly by avoiding the internal keyway in the wheel. Just one slight word of caution though - the grubscrew can never be as secure as the keyway, but as long as you lock the spindle during heavy cuts all should be fine. (I tend to be lazy at times and forget to lock the spindle, just relying on the pin).

Reading my article again, I'm afraid that I wasn't quite specific enough about the backstop thread. I did use a tap that I managed to borrow from a friend.

Hope that you enjoy using the indexing head, and would be interested to hear how you get on with it.

Regards, Roger

Agree with Niloch about the Warco DH1. Expensive, but a brilliant piece of kit.

Hi John

"For height 200+100 for the tool itself under the spindle"

Presume that you will be using the machine for drilling holes as well as milling - if so I think that you might find the height under the spindle very restrictive once you add in the height of the vice and a drill chuck / holder of some description.

Regards

Roger

Hi All

Beware though, I've bought some imported toolholders where the bottom 'lip' was quite thick meaning that my 10mm tools wouldn't fit. I've now got a good number of these and there is quite a lot of variation - I've just measured some and the bottom lip varies in thickness between 5.6mm and 6.9mm.

Roger

Totally agree with Martin - the lack of quill will make the Marlow very difficult to use, so unless you just need a machine just to mill, rather than mill and drill, I would advise that the VMC would be the better option for you. You are likely to have to live with the machine for a number of years, so making the right choice now is important.

The only issue that I've got with the VMC is the distance, or rather lack of it, between the spindle nose and the table. This can give real problems when trying to use long drills on tall jobs.

Hope this helps.

Roger

If the price is right I'd be interested in a couple of feet.

Hi Frank

Just tried printing a page from latest MEW - no problems. The dialog box enables me to select a printer (defaults to my inkjet printer (setup under 'printers and devices' and also allows me to 'print to file'. Do you have any problems with these items? Haven't noticed the page number that Keith refers to though.

Using Windows Home Premium 64 bit and IE9.

Regards, Roger

The holes in my stand / VMC base were much further out than 2mm, so I guess that you've got the correct stand badly made.

Hi Nealeb

I had problems with the holding down bolt positions with my VMC - Warco had sent me the wrong stand where the bolt positions were different - obviously a case of different machines, different stands. They changed the stand within a couple of days and I had no further problems. Might be worth talking to Warco before you drill the new holes.

If you have uPVC replacement doors you might think that you're safe with the posh-looking locks supplied. Apparently nothing could be further from the truth - they can be drilled, picked, bumped and snapped fairly quickly by someone who knows what they're doing.

I was advised to replace these by a policeman that I know and look for locks to overcome the threat. I chose CISA Astral S locks which are 'anti' all of the above threats. Theyr'e not cheap, but if you look around you can get some very good deals. Forget the DIY sheds and look for a specialist who can offer you a good service at what is probably a better price - I used a company called Barnsley Lock and Safe to supply my locks and had them 'keyed alike' for a small extra cost, allowing all locks supplied to be operated by the same key. Further explanation can be found on their website - no connection apart from a satified customer....

**LINK**!

Easy to fit but not easy to break into - well worth a look.

Hi Chris

Not experienced workpiece rising-up in the DH1, in fact it has very good grip holding the workpiece very securely, but you will have to adopt a different way of working with it. I also find the recesses in the top of the jaws very useful for holding thin components.

The thread **LINK** will provide you with some more information on the method of use. This method has the advantage that if the workpiece is slightly away from parallel you can still grip it tightly.