Member postings for Ian P

Another recommendation for a Brother here

I bought a HL-2375DW about three years ago and its performed without fault since. It mono, double sided and has Ethernet and WiFi.

It my first Brother printer but when deciding what to buy was slightly influenced by a colleague who bought a Brother laser in the late 90's or early 2000's when they had an offer, his printer came with a voucher (equal to the cost price) that would be deducted off the price of a new printer when he replaced it. He did replace it in 2019 and the voucher was honoured.

Ian P

Re your second picture Martin. I can see the moving part of the press (bottle jack) is presumably pushing on the crescent shaped access to the bottom of the pillar, but what is in contact with the top (RH in picture) of the base casting?

I would suggest that you apply several tons force to the bottom of the tube to 'load up' the whole assembly, then use a lead mallet to 'shock' the rust into submission. Hitting radially around the tubular part whilst loaded will be beneficial.

Are you able to also apply a shock force axially by using a drift and hammer on the end of the tube as well (if there is access past the jack spreader plate).

Whilst heat (a lot of very hot heat!) would help, I foresee some issues with the practicality of manhandling something so heavy and too hot to touch. It is not as if its just going to slide out so you would still need the press, whilst its hot!

Ian P

No need to thank me for the work, all I did was watch Channel 4 News

There is more info here on how the sensors work here, a long, but good read

Magnetoencephalography (The optically pumped version)

Ian P

I saw a short item on the Channel 4 news a few days ago and I am bowled over by the thought that it is possible to detect the magnetic field generated by the current flowing in the nerves of the human body. (Neat 3D printed headgear too)

Link is to the 5 minute long segment from the 7pn news

Channel 4 News Item

Ian P

Ian

Put 'pancake motor' into Google images and see if you can identify yours

Ian P

3 Phase, where did that come from?

Looks like a high torque DC motor, possibly a stacked printed armature as it has face commutator?

Ian P

I would say the Kiwi bloke has pretty much summed up the important bits to consider when making the spindle parts.

If I were to make one to the highest precision I could, I would machine the spindle between centres to an almost completed state except for the female cone. Leaving the ER end solid allows machining all the external surfaces, threading and bearing registers being lapped whilst the spindle can be taken can be taken on and off the lathe to check fits etc.

The conical bore can then be rough machined just using the three jaw chuck. I would finish grind the ER taper later with the spindle running in its own bearings.

I would avoid making a spacer between the (front) bearings (version 8) just because if we are talking high precision, its just another item that has to have absolutely parallel faces to avoid tilting a bearing.

The tubular spacer in version 8 has machined features at both ends which are not really needed. The outer annulus area of a flat face at the tail end will be in fresh air and shortening the shaft (front) bearing register will allow the spacer flat front face to sit against the inner race.

Maybe I have missed it earlier in this thread but I am not sure what type of ballraces are being used. As the over length of the whole assembly is quite short and as its intended use should not require it to take excessive side loads then I would just have front and back only as that would eliminate the need for the thread and but arrangement in the outer body. A thin close fitting (to the shaft) 'washer' could be pressed into the front bore to keep swarf out freeing up a bit more axial length for flats etc.

Ian P

I once saw 'ye olde boat building kit' (comprised of a log and an axe).

Maybe this is a part machined kit for scoop

Ian P

1, Door wedge

2, Bashing cheese into shape

3, Try Google image search

Ian P

From your pictures the pulleys look to be for a PolyVee belt although much wider (more ribs) than would be expected. If the old belt as wide as the pulleys then it could transmit more power than the lathe could handle although it would last an eternity.

Did you remove the belt by cutting it off and was it actually PolyVee type? and if so how wide was it? (just curious) .

Another question. Is the small gear on the end of the spindle one that is integral with the spindle i.e.machined as part of the spindle. If so then that has to pass through the front bearing at least for the spindle to be extracted.

Ian P

Something odd here.

If the two gears near the small end of the pulley cone are keyed or fixed to the spindle then when the backgear is engaged the whole thing will lock up.

Ian P

PS I have no idea either what the screw is for, yes its a screw but it is in, or part of something.

To each other or to the spindle?

Ian P

I can see a long bolt sticking out of the headstock casting and the only other screw in your last picture looks to be a coarse threaded grubscrew partly unscrewed from the small sheave on the pulley.

All three pulley sheaves and the (middle) gear in your picture should be mechanically joined to each other and be capable of rotating freely in the spindle (to drive the backgear).

Is the bull wheel the only thing solidly keyed/joined/fixed to the headstock spindle?

The smallest gear in your picture I assume drives the screwcutting gearing so somehow that must be part of or fixed/keyed to the spindle.

What kind of bearings does the spindle run in?

Can you show a picture of the end view of the headstock that shows that end of the spindle

Ian P

Which screw are you referring to?

Ian P

Well, I'm not good at answering questions aimed at the world in general.

My point was related to you saying that the travelling microscope could 'accurately' (your words) measure a bolt head across the room.

I just thought there were many factors that came between theory and practice, especially in the home workshop

Ian P

The hole shown in the picture appears to be in the headstock casting (bearing housing) so more likely to be a lubrication hole. I cannot imagine it would have a grubscrew in it.

Almost 100% the spindle should be removed from the chuck end.

Is there any movement endfloat at all in the spindle?

What is under the cover at the right hand end of the spindle?

Does the pulley revolve freely relative to the spindle?

A picture showing more of the headstock arrangement (not a close up) might help.

Ian P

Just noticed there are two hols in the last picture, one being in the bull wheel. More likely a pin than a grubscrew if its in the bull wheel as it has to transmit a lot of torque.

Edited By Ian P on 26/07/2023 11:33:10

so accurately measure the size of a bolt-head from across the room

Same problem here as you highlighted in the Platinum wire thread!

Straightness of the traverse beam would be just one fly in the ointment.

Ian P

+1

I think it highly unlikely that the bull gear has an internal thread onto the spindle, most likely it is keyed especially if there is no grubscrew or hole for one.

From the pictures you have shown its not really possible for anyone to see enough detail of how the spindle/headstock is arranged. What is the bearing at the rear of the spindle?

Is the pulley itself free to rotate when the backgear is disengaged? (I presume it on an eccentric spindle)

What sort of bearings supports the main spindle, Plain or ballrace?

There appears to be a painted over screw on a cover at the back of the spindle, removing that cover might show something.

Ian P

Dave's nailed it!

The 'parts' forming the would be two bullet shaped ends with several thin wall cylindrical rings between them, all stacked together.

PM sent to Lee

Ian P