Member postings for WALLACE

Edited By WALLACE on 17/06/2013 11:04:17

Edited By WALLACE on 17/06/2013 11:10:00

Edited By WALLACE on 16/06/2013 22:25:45

Hi Chris -  EP oil does damage PB - this is from the Morris Lubricants website. Not sure on the amount of damage that would be done given the fairly light loading on the average lathe compaired to a car gerarbox, but I would avoid filling a geared headstock up with EP gear oil just in case there's the odd PB bush lurking inside it.

8. Why should I choose non-EP straight oils for my classic car?
Depending on the age, make and model, non-EP gear oils may be required for use in gearboxes and final drives. Certain designs contained a lot of phosphor bronze (copper containing) components that are sensitive to the sulphur-based extreme pressure (EP) additive. The sulphur attacks the copper and destroys the integrity of the meshing gear surfaces.

W.

Edited By WALLACE on 19/12/2012 11:50:12

Chronos do slideway lubricant in 1 and 5 litre litre containers . .seems to work fine for me . .

Beware using the old bottle of EP gear oil you may have kicking around for anything apart from car diffs - it does attack phosphor bronze such as half nuts or anything else made of said material !

w.

Edited By WALLACE on 17/12/2012 19:45:24

Edited By WALLACE on 17/12/2012 19:47:50

Don't forget the ebay option - usually quite a few pillar drills for sale - and can be cheap if you want something that's a bit older. I brought a Progress drill (morse taper 2 with a geared head ) for £120 which seemed quite a good buy - a little worn around the edges but at least the table didn't look like a piece of cheese !

Industrial ones are usually always 3 phase but it's not impossible to change - (although you may need a puller to get the pulley off the spindle) plus changing the electrics etc..

w.

If you do a search on ebay for ' vintage + guillotine' there's a few for sale. . some silly prices, others not !

W.

Hi all.

Seeing the recent thread on metric fine grub screws sets me thinking there must be as relationship between thread pitch and 'strippability' for want of a better word of what it's going into..

I'm currently making a tail stock die holder as I stripped the threads of a commercial one (not 100% totally my fault as they weren't at the right spacing so didn't line up with the dimples on the dies).

So do I go for a fine -ish metric or BA, or a corser whitworth form ?

thanks

WALLACE

Edited By WALLACE on 03/09/2012 20:54:23

Edited By WALLACE on 01/09/2012 17:06:32

Thanks everyone for the replies.

SlotDriller - yep, hadn't thought of that, my Dads ancient bit and brace has a 2 jaw chuck but its a bit on the heafty size for the M2.5 tap I want to use.

Mike - I did see your website with the 4 jaw - very nice, but definetly outside my skills limit .

I suppose it might be easer to modify a new or boot sale special Eclipse type - but I wondered about it's accuracy - although if the flats aren't ground 100% accurately (which sounds like they're not !), it's a bit academic. I'll have a look at my collection of taps at the weekensd - meantime, if anyone from ARC or Chronos wants to introduce them, it does look like there's a couple of buyers all lined up for you !

W.

Hello all.

I seem to remember one of the regular suppliers doing a 2 jaw 'drill chuck' specifically to hold taps on the flats so they don't slip - I think it was highlighted in a MEW 'new products' page.

Did I dream it or do they exist - and if so, who were they as I can't find them anywhere !

thanks.

WALLACE

I don't mind cm or thou' - but what I can never get is the 0.0001mm. Or is that .00001mm ?

Why not use micrometres in a similar way to the electronic fratenity who use microamps, volts or farads ?? No getting the magnifiying glass out to see how many noughts there are or where the decimal point is !.

So 2.5 micrometres is 1 thou. That seems a lot easier to read than 0.025mm !

W.

I've bitten the bullet - and gone for a lump 90 x 90 x 80. I'll measure it when it turns up and post the results !

W.

Thanks everyone - I think for the case of a few pounds, i'll stretch to the next size up - if nothing else, it gives me a smidge more ' mistake' room - so to speak !

W.

Hello all.

Just a quick question about the lumps of cast iron meehanite sold by our regular suppliers.

As it's not exactly cheap, I want to get pretty much exactly the right size -so does it have a hard skin that needs machining off and how accurate is the advertised size ? I've only about 2 or 3 mm over to play with and I'd rather not go up a size !

thanks.

WALLACE.