Member postings for Baldric

You may want to look here **LINK** I have not used their track but do see them with signals etc. at the Midlands show.

Thanks for the replies, as it seems all the responses are basically the same that makes life easier, hopefully the bench will be built in 2 weeks time, other jobs permitting .

I am just about to build a workbench as part of my new workshop, what is the ideal height? I seem to have come across some that are significantly lower than others but I am not sure why. I seem to remember that there is a suggested relationship between the users height and the top of the vice for sawing, are there any other recommendations?

Baldric

I did a similar thing but different, I spaced the timbers at 8x4 having found out the size of the ply, then found that plasterboard to go on the ceiling is 1.2 x 2.4, consistency would have been helpful....

Baldric

I have used these, I agree with John they are a godsend, so much so that I wish I could find some more so that each lathe/drill could have one next to it, I assume they are not available anywhere.....

Baldric.

Here is who I use **LINK**

Look here for the boring bars the letters describe the type of boring bar, the numbers show the size, click on the relevant bar and it shows you what type is uses. From there, there is still the selection of exactly which tip of the correct shape/size to use, but that is down to the material you are turning and the tip corner radius you want.

I have never had a problem with APT for my use, including full thread forming tools.

Baldric

Neil,

As I use several devices I get logged out so don't bother logging back in so users like me will probably skew you figures.

Baldric

You can actually get re-usable cable-ties, see here. Many other suppliers are available and have been for years, only thing is if you leave them full length the end is always in the way. The old fashioned route of using lacing twine to wire bays may have been a bit more environmentally friendly but took a lot of work to do.

Not if you do cut the ties do it as close as possible to the catch otherwise it leaves sharp ends to scratch you.

Baldric

I use several devices to view this forum, and as each time I go to a different device I get am logged out I don't login unless I am posting, I have a link to the forum, I use this, when I go to a subject then back again the popup re-appears, this is what is annoying, once a day would be not so bad, having logged in to write this I am not getting the popup. For me either allow me to be logged in on several devices or fix the popup so it doesn't keep appearing.

Baldric.

John,

Re the strength of the levelling compound, the one I linked to says it is suitable as a finished surface, under the FAQs it says OK for a garage so I assumed this is a stronger one, I did also find floor repair compounds for factory use that can have a feather edge so I guess they are good, but perhaps not self levelling. The hints about using screws to mark out floor levels is a very handy hint.

pgk pgk,

I will look for a thin floor screed with waterproof additive so I don't loose the headroom and compare with a "paint" and screed.

Baldric

I haven't had a chance to do to much more investigation, other than checking that all is dry in the rain yesterday, and it is.

Regarding the floor, it is almost up to the wall DPC, about 1/2"-1/4" lower, that and considering the garage was is from the 1960s I guess the is no DPM then. If I don't fit one, but make sure the internal walls/insulation are not directly on the floor would there be much of a damp issue? How much really comes up through the floor? Taking up the current floor and laying a new one may be the ideal answer, but rather time consuming and expensive. If I paint one of the DPM pains on the floor/lower wall before adding the self levelling compound will that provide adequate protection?

Looking at the walls, I was planning on putting the electrics in surface trunking to allow for easy changes, exactly as suggested by Bob Unitt. I had thought of using ply as the finish, but seeing the price of OSB compared to this I might use OSB, looking around it seems to be OK, has anyone anything to say this is not the case?

Baldric

All,

Thanks for the responses so far, I will have to drill a hole to confirm if there is a DPM somewhere underneath.

I am loathed to take up the old floor unless it will take time and make a mess. I don't have anywhere else to store my tools/lathe so can really only do half the floor at a time which will be a pain. Before moving I did build a timber framed workshop on a purpose built concrete base, doing this I found I didn't have the knack to get a top screed flat, hence the thought of using a self levelling compound.

Baldric

Les,

I can't see one in the floor, there is one visible in the walls, if put a DPM on the floor then put 1-2" of screed on the floor it will be above the DPC in the wall, is this OK? What is the minimum thickness of screed I could put on a membrane? For info the current floor is about 2" above the level of the drive already, I am not sure if that is original or not.

Baldric

I have recently moved house and will be converting a detached brick the garage for use as a workshop, this subject has been covered in some forms but I can't see for a brick garage.

Looking at the floor I need to repair it as it is uneven and some of a skim top coat that was there is breaking up, I will remove any loose or hollow sounding areas of the old skim, but then what? I was looking at something like **LINK** has anyone else used this type of material? I was looking to do this in 2 pours so that I can move my lathe from one end of the workshop to the other once the first pour has set, the first pour being up to a wooden batten.

I don't intend to put insulation/wood on the floor as I hope to get larger machines and don't want to loose much headroom.

When it comes to the wall I was looking to insulate as shown in the second image here **LINK** but instead of plasterboard on the inside I am planning to use plywood so that I can screw hooks, shelves etc. where I want in the future. It seems to me that there is a damp-proof material behind the timber uprights, additional timber to keep the insulation of the wall maintaining an ir gap then the insulation, then ply, although the text says to use a membrane if the insulation is only between the timbers, I assume before the ply where they have additional layer, would this be affected by screws? Where there are pillars in the wall there would be no insulation to create a flat wall. Does this seem reasonable?

The roof is currently corrugated sheets on timber cross members, I was planning on adding beams at 90 degrees to the current ones and insulating between these as per the walls, then finish with either thin ply or possible white hardboard.

There will be a side door replacing the current single glazed window, I plan on this being a modern insulated door, if it has glass it will be obscure. The main door is currently a pair of wooden doors, I want to still allow occasional use of these so was thinking of either adding insulation to these or creating a removable wall behind, increasing security and insulation.

Whilst this solution may not achieve the specifications for living areas does it sound a reasonable compromise between cost, comfort and space lost?

Best buys for me are probably a DRO for my mill and ER32 collet holders for use in the lathe and mill.

Worst buy probably also cheap drill sets, spend the money on a reasonable set, I find even if you work in imperial a metric set in 0.1mm steps will be close enough for drilled holes and more convenient than having fractions, letters and numbers.

Baldric

Brian,

What you have said is slightly wrong, some plugs have the thread cut with the tool at 90 degrees to the centre line, others at 90 degrees to the taper, you do have to make sure you get the correct type, and depending on where they came from may not be 11tpi. See **LINK** for full details.

Baldric

Although from what I posted you can see them.....

I don't see the pictures either, looking at the URL **LINK** I assume you see them as you are logged in to that web-site, hence the https.

I have found this site useful in the past **LINK** it provides quite a bit of information on what the material is suitable for and equivalents.