Member postings for Maurice

Sorry I've come a bit late to this thread; going right back to the beginning, Chester can't say the can't help as they no longer stock that model. Your contract is with them, and they have sold you goods that are "not of merchantable quality" or possibly "unfit for purpose". You are entitled to an exchange item or your money back; and it is your choice which you have. If they refused you could have contacted your local trading standards office. This is now not possible as you have modified the item, but it is something to remember in future.

Maurice

That should read" don't doubt". Sorry.

To check for roundness, rest the cylindrical item in (on?) A V block, and rotate it with a d.t.i. Resting on the top surface. I believe that to be thorough, both 60 degree and 90 degree V blocks should be used. This will tell you if the object is round or not. I don't don't that the amount out of roundness could be calculated from the readings, but not by me I'm afraid.

There must be a up and down in space; ever time The Starship Enterprise encounters another ship they are always the same way up, and in the same plane!

Maurice

Here is another colour washed plate from the drawing text book, a duplex steam feed pump this time. Another fine example of the art I think.

There is no section of the pump I'm afraid, just a general view which I have posted here. As you will see from the text, it is an extract from a text book on engineering drawing.

I am in the process of selling a set of Stuart Turner model centrifugal pump castings on eBay. In case the buyer is interested, I am including copies of the picture shown here. They are so nice I thought I would share them. I really like colour washed drawings. The engine is similar to one that Stuarts produced in, I think, the 1980's. It only had a bore of about half an inch. It was called "The Meteor" I think.I don't think it sold well.

Have you tried exchanging the sticky jaw with one of the others, to see if the sticking is down to the jaw or the slot? That at least would tell you the area to look for a fault.

Maurice.

I fitted a 5' LED batten light in a garage workshop for someone recently. Very bright; much better than the equivalent fluorescent tube. If the diffuser is removed, the individual LED elements are about the size of an old postage stamp, and almost too bright to look at at close range. On the other hand, I have just put 5 meters of stick-on led tape under a kitchen cabinet, and it is not as bright as the fluorescent tube that I took down. Much smaller area of course. I intend to replace the lights in my workshop with LED as soon as I can.

Maurice

On the advice of a correspondent in the M.E. Many years ago, I obtained a tub of anhydrous lanolin from my local chemist, who ordered it in for me. It is very good for putting on tools going into store, but it is a pig to remove. I had to resort to white spirit to get it off.

Maurice.

I'm told that thinners of the quality for diluting paint to spray is fine; it is the "gun wash" grade that is less refined and contains some water.

Maurice

About nine months ago, I purchased a can of thinners; the cheaper stuff for washing out spray guns and general degreasing. I used about half a pint, and the rest was stored under the bench. I went to use some more two days ago, and found the can to be nearly empty/ The can had rusted away from the inside and the contents leaked away, probably during the summer when the workshop got and the air in the top of the tin expanded. I have since been told that the thinners that is less refined contains water!

Lesson; next time, decant thinners into another container that wont rust.

When at school, we had a master who had just taken delivery of a load of new tools, and was explaining at length why the tolls must always be used for their intended purpose. While doing this, he opened and stirred a tin of paint with a screwdriver!

With reference to the "right" colour for Stuart engines, In the past, I was able to look in Stuarts window in Henley on an almost weekly basis and the engines on display were more of an olive green; I still have some old Stuart oscillating engines with the original paint on, again they are olive green. I reality I doubt that Stuarts regarded it as a sort of livery, it was just green paint. Use whatever shade you think looks best.

Maurice

Sorry Ady1, and anyone else who may have tried to look at this, Roger Provins is quite right, it should be

22237595823. Must be getting old! Sorry again,

Maurice

This is just to alert anyone interested in barn engines, that I have a "New Way" American barn engine for sale on ebay; number 22237595823. I hope the moderator will forgive me posting this on this site. I would not normally do it, but it belonged to a fellow model engineer, who died very suddenly; and I am helping his widow to dispose of his engineering related belongings. I want to do the best job for that I can, and I thought there may be a barn engine enthusiast, who reads this forum, but not eBay on a regular basis. Thanks for your indulgence,

Maurice

<edit> Number corrected by moderator - you aren't going insane...

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 19/01/2017 20:41:06

V8Eng's reference to the term" almost exactly" being used on TV, brings to mind the number of times that TV presenters find things that are "nearly unique"!

Maurice

I would still urge the examination of the gear in the apron, that engages the rack on the front of the bed. I have not measured the pitch, but it looks close to 1/8", and when my gear was worn it had ridges across each tooth, that caught on the tips of the rack teeth as the saddle was traversed by the lead screw. and produced bands on the work as the movement of the tool was briefly delayed.

Maurice

At the start of my post I should have said" traversed toward the headstock by self act". Sorry.

Maurice

I've come a bit late to this thread, but it might pay you to examine the pinion which engages with the rack. It was very worn on my S7, unknown to me, and ridges had formed on the teeth which caught on the crest of the rack teeth as the saddle was traversed toward the headstock. This caused a brief drag on the saddle followed by a jump to the left which generated rings on the work. A brief test of this would be to "help" the hand wheel to rotate while the self act is working, just enough to take up the backlash. See if effects the problem. Mine was cured with the purchase of a new gear cluster for the apron. While waiting for it to come, I had a length of cord tied to a spoke of the hand wheel then wound anticlockwise onto the shank of the hand wheel, with a small weight tied on the end and allowed to dangle, to take up the backlash, and keep the worn teeth away from the rack. It did get in the way a bit, but I was able to use the lathe while I waited.

Maurice