Member postings for John Hinkley

Jake,

Are you saying that there are NO messages in your forum inbox? If so, then that is strange. The message that you have received from "[email protected]" is automatically generated by the site's software and does exactly what it says and no more. It alerts you to a message in your forum inbox. You cannot reply to the alerts message.

Perhaps a moderator with sufficient access can sign in as you and verify the status of your inbox. Failing that, I would suggest that you contact Morton's helpline for assistance. They are said to be very helpful.

John

I thought I'd better update this thread. I decided in the end to make a new "compass rose" from 4mm aluminium sheet and superglue it to the existing plastic one. To make the digits stand out a bit, I tried some black Turtle Wax polish I had lying around and it has worked well enough for me to put the project to bed and move on to something else.

Thanks to all those who made suggestions and thus sowed the seeds of my solution.

Here's a photo of what it looks like now:

John

Colin,

You will get more than a few ideas from looking at Jason Bellamy's video channel on YouTube. He often makes his creations from bar stock and has given many a would-be modeller advice and guidance on this forum, including tips on how to make the finished article have the look of having been built from castings. One word of warning, however. If you do start looking at his videos, set aside a good while as they are many, and I find them the video equivalent of a "can't put it down" book!

John

Thanks for the offer, John (Haine) but the project was only ever intended as a subject for a YouTube video, not for actual use on my machine. It has fulfilled that purpose and my enquiry here was as a result of my lack of current projects (and ideas for one) that meant I just thought I'd try polishing a t**d and pimp it up a bit.

John

Hmmm! Seems I'm spoilt for choice, now. More research required methinks, before I put my hand in my pocket.

Andrew, that sounds like a sensible, non-damaging method. I'll have a look for some engraving wax.

John

Just remembered - I've got a "spare" one that didn't turn out so well that I can practice on!

John

Thanks, Noel. I'll give that a go. We have a motor spares shop in the village that will probably stock paint and solvent.

John

As a part of a recent project, I have a piece of Black shiny acrylic which has been cut from a sheet on my router and engraved with small numerals as shown in the (poor) photo below:

The numerals are engraved 0.25mm deep and although I can read them with difficulty, I would like to highlight them in some way. Am I best just trying to dribble some paint into each individual number or is there a better way? I have thought of try to do this with a "Tippex" pen that I have lurking in a drawer somewhere that has a pump action applicator.

John

Edit:  Double-click the image to enlarge in order that you can see how bad my photography is.

Edited By John Hinkley on 10/02/2023 11:32:30

Glad to hear your problem is resolved, Gary. Even better, that you let us all know it was! So often, pleas for assistance are responded to but we don't get to hear whether the replies were any use.

John

John,

Would it be possible to incorporate a captive spindle in a BT30 shaped housing and mount a high speed motor alongside the head, driving the spindle via a belt and pulleys? That way, you can preserve the table motion limits at the expense of a little headroom.

John

Not owning a 3D printer, my knowledge from first hand experience is nil, but I have done some research with a view to purchasing a printer at some stage. Part of that research involved purchasing "3D printing for model engineers", written by our own Neil Wyatt. In it he makes a number of observations regarding worn nozzles, notably those made from brass which should be considered a consumable. He suggests that they should be changed every two spools of filament. More often, if the more abrasive filaments, such as carbon fibre impregnated nylon ones, are used. More durable nozzles for this type of filament can be had with a ruby insert, for example, though they will be commensurately more expensive.

Symptoms include blobby prints and over-extrusion, apparently.

I can recommend Neil's book for the beginner - it contains a lot of useful information and guidance as well as set up advice and trouble shooting. And, no, I'm not being paid to say that!

John

I don't know your lathe specifications but if you and others are referring to brushes - is it possible that they are simply worn down beyond their minimum length and require replacement?

John

Thank you. That supplier has already been suggested by David George in the fourth post and rejected by Rowan on grounds of quantity and cost. He only wants 2m. I suppose he could approach them and ask for the name of someone who's bought 75metres of the stuff and beg a couple of metres from them! Or maybe even a 2m "sample" from MKM - good luck with that.

John

I'm bowing out of the discussion at this point. ........

Edited By John Hinkley on 01/02/2023 10:43:30

Can you make it even easier, Mark? As far as i can see, your link leads to suppliers of square tube, not rectangular as requested by the OP. He specified 20 x 40mm or 25 x 50mm tubing. I have to admit I haven't explored all your search results, though - life's too short!

John

Ah! I see, now. It wasn't until I'd read all the way through and got to pgk pgk's reply that I twigged it was for an archery bow! I'd assumed it was for making a violin bow! Silly me.

Should have read the sub-headline.

John

Edited By John Hinkley on 30/01/2023 09:37:04

Just re-read my post above. It's a pdf copy of the lathe MANUAL that I've produced - not the lathe itself! Now that's something I'd like to see.

John

A Google search for similar drivers threw up several of similar type and a manual for one of them mentioned a small button next to the indicator lights. Having looked for a picture of your specific tool, there appears to be a button next to the indicator lights on top of the handle. It seems that these leds only indicate the state of charge of the battery when disconnected from the charger - not when charging. At least that's my reading of the information available to me.

John

Will,

It would seem that your lathe is similar, if not identical to mine, another Asian clone. I have a pdf copy of the lathe. I also have made a clarified chart of the change gear table as shown below: (the one in the manual is, shall we say, unclear)

Where Z1 is spindle output, Z2 and Z3 share the intermediate shaft on the banjo and Z4 is the gear on the leadscrew.

PM me your email address if you would like a copy of the manual.

For Colin,

In order to facilitate the removal and replacement of the chuck, I made three mounting screws from new Hex head bolts with threaded collars Loctitied on to them, so that the hex protrudes beyond the rear face of the spindle flange. Thus an ordinary ring spanner can be used instead of the angled, truncated and often lost Allen key can be used. Like this:

John

Nigel,

I'm not entirely sure what you are asking, but if I understand correctly, I have come up with the idea below:

Having nothing better to do while waiting for the new sofa and armchair to be delivered, I set about designing a Hi-Lo speed gear cluster, based on your dimensions in the OP. The Lo ratio gears are 32 and 72 tooth Mod 2 gears, 68mm and 148mm diameter respectively. For the Hi ratio pair, I selected 44 and 60 tooth Mod 2, to retain the same 104mm shaft spacing. This gives gear ratios of (Lo) 2.25:1 and (Hi), 1.36:1. The cluster shafts are 104mm apart. No allowance has been made for running clearances

The gears are selected by a simple fork arrangement running in a groove on the 32-44 tooth gear cluster.

To my my mind, those are big gears. I imagine your lorry will be a pretty substantial size when finished.

Make of it what you will, or ignore at your pleasure. Kept me occupied for an hour or so, anyway.

John

How about an off-cut of Corian as used for worktops etc? That's supposed to be able to withstand hot saucepans and the like placed on it. You might get a piece from your local kitchen fitter or there's adverts for offcuts on the bay of e.

John