Member postings for charadam

For me the question has always been - how accurately do I need this lump of steel cut?

My SIP 6" has always cut 1mm out vertically in a 50mm bar but I find this OK as all I want is a shorter length of 50mm without all the sweat.

However, when I cut box or angle for fabrication jobs, I find the inaccurate cut an arsepain.

The problem on my saw is that the axle is off by a few thou - its the one with the cut angle adjusted by swinging the cutting assembly, not the vice.

I think I got what I paid for.

http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/

Baty appear still to make your depth gauge, or something very similar

Perhaps an email to their tech info line?

https://www.bowersgroup.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/bore_gauges.pdf

May I suggest Googling for D1-3 Camlock dimensions.

More info than you can shake a stick at.

I recently bought a few Feterai from Arc Eurotrade. Best "fine cut " files I have ever used.

Some Vallorbe have disappointed as have most Bahco and Draper.

Like vintageengineer I have been fortunate in finding NOS Stubbs files in auctions, and cannot fault them.

The most useful file in my kit is an 8" safe edge Millenicut - but beware, as some Ebay sellers offer files of suspect quality.

I wonder - whatever happened to good old Martyn Duncumb - the OP?

I imagine the first part of the tensioning sequence is to allow the blade to stretch and settle on the wheels and the second part is to set the optimum working tension.

My own saw works at high ping also.

Seriously this time - what is that apparent groove in the pulley surface?

If it is a groove, it has reduced your friction area by around 10%.

Maybe enough to permit blade slip.

Yes, that is an excessively greasy digit.

Edited By charadam on 28/10/2017 19:08:21

Gents, the word "serviceable" has significance in my post.

Let's say it means fully working and within manufacturers' tolerances.

Either newer or older machinery can achieve this.

Shouldn't the original question be:

What's better - an old, serviceable lathe or a newer, serviceable lathe?

After all, age is only a number.

I order my 6.x.41/2 bandsaw blades from Tuffsaws, at 65 1/4", in bi-metal stock.

This enables me to set the blade to something like the right tension.

They arrive in 48 hours and the prices are as sharp as the blades.

Here they are:

http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/

I think the lamp switch takes the honours.

Until Neil mentioned it, I had not registered the significance of the groove (detent?) in the red plastic part.

A pint will be supplied on demand to the winner (Circlip) in the Castle, Wem between 1930 and 1932 on the 30th April next year.

Found this in one of Mum's old button boxes.

Red & black plastic with brass centre portion so suspect electrical, but no real idea. The ends of the caps are not pierced.

Any clues?

John,

Always remember - if you cut too much off, just weld the bugger back on!

All the very best and thank you for your humour, candour and colourful input.

Charles

Frances, I had the same problem.

I sacrificed a boot-sale screwdriver, cut 50mm off the business end and welded a hex nut on the cut end.

Then used the vice as a press to seat the blade in the screw kerf.

Apply spanner to nut and Robert's your father's brother.

Edited By charadam on 08/10/2017 00:23:17

Or one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CONICAL-GREASE-GUN-NIPPLE-CONNECTOR-LUMATIC-CC1-1-8-BSP-/260788333096?epid=1688241237&hash=item3cb8322a28:m:mRucCzmWrdbpVjuL55DJLBg

A blonde walked into my pub and asked for a double entendre.

So I gave her one.

Edited By charadam on 24/09/2017 12:29:47

"the spindle doesn't waggle like a stick in a bucket."

Oops - strayed into the English dialect thread.

Got things a bit scunt.

Edited By charadam on 17/09/2017 21:48:16

Dave,

I have now realised how old I am.

My first use of hiduminium rivets was in 1967 - 50 years ago!

But they are still purple.

Charles