Member postings for JohnF

Worth a watch and the technique may come in useful!

**LINK**

Thank you Michael, I will log this and load to iBooks as a reference there will be much of interest I'm sure

Regards John

Steve R, depends if you are rural ? but if so have a word with a local farmer. A tractor with front loader and pallet arms would be perfect ! We have moved several machines weighing up to a little over 1 ton [2240lbs] with ease.

John

Plus one for Renaissance Wax, it certainly offers a good level of protection to all metal parts, works well on leather as well. I have used it on display firearms for many years as well as other items around the home. How heat from say a steam engine affects it I have no idea, maybe other have ?

For longevity I think lacquer may be the way to go. Each has advantages and disadvantages !

John

Best way is use say 3/16” dia HSS and grind similar to the ones at the RH of this photo, more pics In my albums. You need to reduce the cutting end only to about half the diameter, grind some clearance behind this, simple to do free hand. The only reason for boring the collet after drilling was to ensure the hole was straight before reaming.

Edited By JohnF on 16/11/2021 09:49:48

Hi Vic, I made one 1/2 to 8mm earlier this year, sorry no pics of the job but I used 1/2" Silver steel held in a collet, bored and reamed the 8mm bore. I then mounted it on mandrel made from 1/2" BMS with an 8mm shank and threaded portion for a nut and thick "washer" to lock the item in place. This was then mounted in a square ER collet block for cutting the slots on the mill.

John

Not read all the posts but the tool is similar to an 1850 Enfield .577 rifle military tool, this may well be a civilian model, lots of military replicas about made by Parker Hale of Birmingham same as the photo posted by Rob. The lug on the side of this one is to enable the very strong V spring to be removed or a new one inserted should the original break.

John

Hi I’m not familiar with those machines but I presume you mean the keyed bush used on change wheel gears ? If so it’s quit possible that other suppliers of similar machines may have the same part? Chester, Engineers Toolroom, Amadeal etc

Or just make one !

Edited By JohnF on 29/10/2021 14:26:08

In the last photo I’m assuming the bottom pulley is your original with the 1/2” bore, it has a large piece missing from the rim. I would make a new one, not a difficult turning job.

However it would also be possible to effect a repair and bore out to suit the new motor shaft. If you want to go this way the repair can be done by turning down the large damaged pulley until you are say 0.200” smaller than the bottom of the V diameter then make a new V section from mild steel. Make the bore of this an interference fit, allow 0.001” per inch of dia. Heat the new pulley “ring” until it blue then fit over the pulley you turned down and allow to cool. Forgot to say I would make a step on the turned part of the original pulley and a matching recess in the new V to facilitate location when fitting.

I have used this method many times converting flat pulleys to V pulleys.

John

Colin, Niels suggestion is a wise one but I would suggest either EN19 or EN24T as a material for your Tommy bar

John

Have a look here for an operators manual **LINK**

If you want a parts list that may also be there if you search the files or I have one in pdf - message me with your email if you would like it

John

I would suggest Power Capacitors in Birmingham **LINK** for a replacement unit, no connection other than a satisfied customer.

John

My guess is Gun Metal which is in the Bronze family of copper alloys -- only a guess but the colour and un-machined surface looks like GM to me

John

A bit late to the party and have not read all the posts but here are a few photo's of a jig I made many years ago to manufacture small dovetail pieces with a 60* angle but you could make one to do 45* in a similar form, I just mounted it in the lathe and took a facing cut, there is a sample I cut tonight to show the result -- I did not have a mill at the time i made this but if I was doing what your early photos show I would make a jig to hold several pieces and in a vice on the mill and use a standard endmill. John

Andrew try putting pyrometer or temperature control in the search box there are some things that may be of interest. I find single words or 2 words in the search bring better results -- don't tell it too much !

John

Hello John and welcome to the forum, where in N Yorks are you hiding ? Not a bad idea to fill in a few details in your profile so in the future if needs be members can look to see where you are and what you're interested in. Steam engines are not my forte but as Chris says there are lots of members who build these.

I made several for a vice clamp, used a form tool to make the ball then made foot to suit with a drilled , nothing fancy. Do make sure the “neck” on the ball is long enough so the foot does not foul when it swivels. To hold in place close the clamp onto a suitable piece of material then with the material held in the bench vice peen over the end of the foot. I just gave a couple of strikes with a punch on either side but you can work around the top for abetted looking finish

John

Cal, I think the question you need to answer is what tolerance do you want or need to work too ?

+/- 0.0005" +/- 0.001" +/- 0.010" or ????

The next question is your budget ?

Then decide what size of work you want to do, I see several of the small machines mentioned which are fine if your work is very small but you are of course limited to their capacity whereas a larger machine will give you more scope

Hope this helps

John

Jinks, Have a look here on the S & B group **LINK**

May find something of interest or help

John

Plus one for Duncan's observation ! I simply cannot understand why Youtube would allow this to remain on file, someone will surely end up with serious injury or worse.