Member postings for JohnF

A handy set of charts here in FPM with the "type" of steels etc as well as the US spec numbers, but the type is more appropriate for most use

Cutting speeds

Oxalic acid has been used to remove oil from gunstocks for decades and works very well, you do need to wash it off and allow to dry before applying the new finish. It certainly works for me and I have never had any ill effects.

John

Yes metric edge finders are available, Starrett do one but not a wiggler, personally I don't like wigglers, sometimes use the pin & plasticine as Dave [SOD] says but much prefer the ones shown here. The magnetic type suit either system, mine is a Hauser but there are other brands.

Or use the age old method [ 2nd photo] of a spigot and slip gauge, this could be either imperial or metric. As with all tools if you want accuracy it will cost !

John

Also often used in milling diving fixtures, milled lots of hexagons, fork ends etc using these on horizontal mills a great many years go !

Welcome Leon, that's a really nice and spacious workshop you have, where in Aotearoa are you ? What are the vintage cars you have?

John

I would think an epoxy would be the best, maybe researching what the aircraft and car makers use ! Jaguar Landrover use it on aluminium bodied vehicles and much of what was riveted on aircraft is now bonded I believe.

Just my thoughts, John

Welcome Fabio lots of information and help on here, where about in Italy are you ? Guess with a boat its either the coast or a lake ?

John

Hi, I have added some more photos and jpg of the simple hand drawn sketch to assist construction for anyone who is interested -- see here Femi Album

John

Hi John, here are a couple of photo's of mine and I do have the table, somewhere I have a sketch I did for another member to help them make one. They are quite expensive for what they are and fairly easy to make one, if you want the sketch PM me with your email -- isa a pdf doc I think so cannot load it on here.

John

Plus one for SOD and Tony’s comments in particular about leakage!

Whats the cost (difference in cost) of a known brand from a known and trusted vendor compared to the cost of your precious tool ? I have had a cheapo calliper destroyed by cheap batteries no way would I put them in my Mitutoyo etc. However most by far of my tools are old fashioned analog no batteries needed !

John

It maybe worth investigating here **LINK**

or look for OMPS & Noma around the Brescia or Gardone VT area, lots of gunmaking and Engineering in that area, OMPS is very much aligned to that trade but if you ask either company if they can recommend where you can get what you want.

John

Hi Ketan, Early 2013 MacBook pro and Safari Version 15.3 (17612.4.9.1.8) all seems Ok ran though an oder right up to payment charged delivery address etc -- all worked as it should as far as I can see --- cleared the order at the end.

Regards John

Edit use BT internet at the moment

Edited By JohnF on 06/03/2022 23:16:37

Hi here is a video I came across a while back, I have never tried the method but see no reason it should not work, I do use rust blueing but a much longer process, **LINK**

All the cold blues are similar and based on the same chemicals, they work OK on smaller items but none offer particularly good rust prevention, better than nothing but traditional rust bluing and hot bluing offers a better protection, rust bluing being the better IMO. However iron + H2O always = rust !

John

Chris, welcome to the forum, there are at least another couple of members from Italy, maybe more? As far the oil gun goes look here at Press Parts they do one that works quite well, one problem with it is it does not fit the rear spindle bearing nipple as well as it might but a bit of clean cotton cloth over the nipple helps.

John

HI Chris, I agree with John H as far as getting the cart before the horse !! however it still may be possible with careful setting in a 4 -jaw, difficult to advise fully without seeing the job.

As for the tool since its a one off job would grind one from HSS and use it in a substantial boring bar, assuming there is a shoulder inside the work I would arrange to start inside with an undercut and screw-cut outwards L -R just make sure you are cutting a RH thread !

Because of the size I would also arrange things so as the thread gets deeper you can feed in say 2 thou on the cross slide and 1 thou on the top slide thus reducing the cutting load on the tool.

Might be wise to make a male gauge first to test the work.

John

Ian please see your messages,

The original method of fixing the stones to the carriers was a powder adhesive you applied to the mount then heated it on a hot plate [i use an old flat iron upturned] the worn stones can be removed with heat. I guess now its possible to use an epoxy,

John

I would say you have a good case if not "as described" good idea to save the photos if still available and a screen shot of the advert then open a case with eBay complaints asking for a refund --- or I think you can just ask to return the item for a refund ? look at eBay help.

John

Hi Martin, what model is your machine? Maybe a photo will help to ID the machine or see the problem

John

Peter, Steve Tracey is not Tracy tools see your messages for Steve’s details

John

Hi, noticed some Hertel 1.5 - 5.9mm drill sets on offer this month at a particularly good price [in my opinion] Offer sheet no connection other than a customer, these folks generally sell good quality tooling. The Lyndon HSS tap sets are also a good buy.

Regards John