Member postings for JohnF

Ian, it looks like a collet from a Marlco indexer used extensively on milling machines in the 1960's and earlier for sure. John

Edit = add image address -- maybe ????

http://www.gandmtools.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DSCN7470-477x469.jpg

Edited By JohnF on 08/01/2019 21:05:41

For Apple, mine is a MacBook just press Shift & Return to move down -- return twice if you want an extra line space

John

I use the standard Eclipse HSS parting tool on both a Myford 7 and an Emco Super 11, no real tool post and no problems. However I have tried the carbide blade and holder style but did not like them due to the additional overhang, I also tried one of this style **LINK** not from Arc but it works very well, however I still use the HSS tool for almost all of my work.

John

Welcome Steven lots of advice available on here you only need to ask, having a chat to Richard is a great first move in deciding what will work best for you.

To me this thread is an excellent example of why its good to have a public profile showing at least where you live ! If Steven had not mentioned in his post where he lived Richard would no have seen it and offered to meet and they live very close each other.

All you do is click Profile and fill in the parts you are happy with, country, town, county and other details if you wish

Cheers John

Andy, I have a 3 wheel Burgess band saw from c1970 lurking around somewhere, it looks very similar and wonder if the B & D was a clone or badged ? If you PM me with your email we can exchange a photo or two and see if there is anything useful.

As Barrie says they are not the best tool in the world, mine has sentimental value but is used rarely !
John

Loosely connected but the Jewellery museum in Birmingham is worth a visit they used many fly presses for punching, forming, blanking etc have a look at the link its well worth a visit with many interesting processes "we" use in our hobby, **LINK**
John

Easiest way is use a square, bar mill a slot to form the key size plus a smidgin' then solder/weld another piece of flat onto the bar, centre in a 4 jaw and turn to a suitable O/D -- hard solder is best. Alternative form one from sheet metal, many of the original were thus.

John

My Thoughts --- From what I can see on the photo's I don't think the larger thread is 12tpi it looks little different to the 1/2" 20 tpi in pitch, maybe its for a missing extraction nut assuming the spindle does have a Morse taper ? Never having or used a machine of this make I may be wrong but it seems illogical not put a drift slot in the spindle unless of course it has insufficient travel to expose said slot then a threaded extraction on the end of the taper would be used ?

The thread is almost certain to be 1/2" x 20 UNF this seems to be the standard thread on power tools.
John

Merry Christmas Danny have a great day ! It'll be warmer than here !!!

John

Merry Christmas one and all and a very happy and prosperous 2019

John

Martin, as Neil says aluminium bronze comes in different alloys, it is difficult to machine but certainly not impossible and it is also highly corrosion resistant. The components I was machining many years ago were for submarine seawater services [corrosion resistant ] and were for want of a better description "very large plumbing fittings" pipe diameters of 6 to 12 inches, large flange's on castings to be machined then drilled and tapped or drilled and spot faced. The factory also produced other components from bar stock.

Sharp HSS tools are the order of the day and increase the top rake a little, for drilling, thin the point to ease the process and grind VERY slightly offset so it cuts slightly oversize -- do not alter the flute rake as for brass. The best cutting medium is suds, it can generate a lot of heat when cutting. Your tools must be sharp !

I have machined this material successfully on my Myford with correctly ground tools etc.

John

Plus 1 for Aluminium Bronze machined a lot of this in the past and as Colin also say’s it’s difficult to drill, grabs the drill if you are not careful. One other point don’t use it as a bearing material (bushes) it is totally unsuitable— I know this from experience with a small engine I was repairing many years ago.

Edited By JohnF on 16/12/2018 10:22:30

There is a sequence you can use to disengage the half nuts when cutting metric threads on an imperial lathe, I have posted this before. I am not sure it will work in this instance but you could try the method "dry" i.e. after the initial cut with the tool close to the work to observe whether its path matches the thread : -

Screwcutting Metric / Imperial

When screw cutting a metic thread on an imperial lathe you can use the chaser dial and disconnect the half nuts when cutting up to a shoulder by doing the following : -

First make sure you engage the half nuts with the chasing dial on a particular number — number 1 is best

Then make your first cut and at the end of the cut disengage the half nuts and stop the lathe and retract your tool exactly as you would if it was an imperial thread — DO NOT move the carriage — this is very important.

Now the thread dial will have passed number 1 so start the lathe in reverse and re-engage the half nuts on number 1 and run it back to the start point of the thread. No need to disengage here just stop the lathe apply the second cut and start the lathe forward then repeat the above at the end of the cut. This allows you to finish at a shoulder or undercut without fear of a disaster !

Above is a copy of instructions I sent to another person on the forum, Logic says to me it will work but the proof of the pudding !!!

I do have a metric lathe, Boxford, and cut metric threads using the dial but always use the numbers indicated on the chart and it works fine up to now.

Hope this helps regards John

Never had the problem but just a thought depending on the cross slide position if you remove the compound slide you should be able to see the transfer gear , other than that it’s a strip down

Hi Clive, for the oil gun look here **LINK** This outfit is Pressparts and this oil gun works very well, I have two simply because we have 2 Myford in different locations. They are pretty much leak free and work better than the one from Myford.

If you don't have them I would recommend making some raising blocks to mount your lathe on, easy to make and they assist in levelling the machine.

John

Robin, as Clive says a straight knurl will probably do but if you want to glue it as well I would recommend Gorilla Glue, it expands while setting and is specifically made for dissimilar materials and gap filling. Epoxy does not bond well with wood but if you do want to use that type I would recommend a metal reinforced one, these do bond well to wood providing it is clean and oil free.

Coggy, This is a little higher in price than you mentioned but it "looks good" and you can always try to negotiate a better deal ! However personally I would recommend viewing before purchase, although imported machines of eastern origin have improved dramatically over the last 30 years I still feel a really good western made machine will be better but its horses for courses and bye the best you can for your budget -- there is something to be said for an imported new machine rather than a dodgy used one !

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Also consider distance from you and thus transport etc John

Here's another, needs a serious clean but the rust looks to be surface only  [close inspection needed] and once cleaned should not affect to performance -- quality machine at a reasonable price IMO

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Edited By JohnF on 05/12/2018 12:59:25

Alan, a couple of links here -- **LINK**

**LINK**

The first show how to - the second the calculations to find the over wire dimension

Hope this helps John

Shooting - shotguns, rifles, air rifles and before they were banned classic pistols, Webley mainly

Game fishing

British motorcycles

Word chipping & turning for a change

Building projects around home etc

Photography but not so great at it

Anything countrywise don't really do cities !

Thank you Neil, David & Pete I'll have a go !

John