Member postings for JohnF

Owen, probably worth removing the top slide -- the one with the 4-way tool box on it and post a photo of the cross slide then we can see what's there, it does look as though a sub table will be needed

John

Owen, there seems to be 4 tapped holes in the cross slide which would indicate provision for fixing a T-slotted sub table similar to the Myford example, you could possibly use one of these suitably modified to fit your machine. The make of you machine is not evident but its likely if you can find this you may well be able to purchase a dedicated one. Maybe search the usual suppliers for a similar item e.g. **LINK**

For packing tools to height I would recumbent steel shim and if you can find any the steel banding used for holding goods to pallets etc is useful but much of it is now plastic.

Is there a makers name anywhere?

John

Peter, yes same era young and somewhat silly or maybe over enthusiastic ! and yes when cornering you would slap the power on in a rear wheel car to "push" you round the bend, conversely when front wheel drive aka mini etc came along best to accelerate towards the corner then take the power off ! Not dissimilar to a "chariot"--- motor bike and sidecar, left hander power on, right-hander power off. More sense now !!!

John

Some photos on this link while it lasts , may be of some use ?

**LINK**

Hmm! Very interesting Ketan, I assume from what you say the Swiss pattern are made to a higher standard than the standard needle files ? Price looks good I’ll try some next time I need files.

regards John

I think you will find this is a schematic diagram to show only the shape of the file and which edges have file teeth on, as you rightly say where there are no hashes its a safe edge.

Most of my needle files are Grobert [Vallorbe] and are double cut, recently I have tried Bacho Swiss made needle files and find them very good also less expensive then Grobert.

John

Agreed Mike—- Bugbear 0.003” interference between the steel pin and wood is nothing, it will fit easily, differently story if the cupboard carcass was metal !

Hi Gianfranco, a little more info on your machine and a few photos may yield some information if anyone recognised it as a brand sold in the U.K. or USA

Put some phots in an album I’m sure it will be helpful

cheers John

Probably an "optical flat" used as a reference for the straight edges

John

Might have an old M & W catalogue somewhere will try and find it to see if the product is in it

Martin sent you a PM

John

Sorry double post Mods please delete -- thanks 

Edited By JohnF on 14/04/2019 20:07:51

Martin see your PM's

John

Are the questions Pre or post move Frank ?

Nay nay lad tha's get'n it backside fora'd eh up while I show th'i ! Translates to -- No no young man you are assembling it wrong way round please move aside whilst I demonstrate

Panshakered = worn out or tired

Brossen = Full, over eaten

Ganin yam = going home

John

Dougie -- maybe I'm missing something or not understanding what you are doing but why piano wire ? why not use silver steel ? easy to drill and harden afterwards if you wish.

John

Look here --- **LINK**

Stewart, take a skim off all round the bar and you will find warpage will be minimised, stress reliving is of course better but you do need to achieve the correct temperature. Depends on size of the job and the tolerance you wish or need to achieve.

There is heaps of info on the net if you look but 600 to 650 deg C is about right for steel.

How big is the piece and where are you?

John

"More broken or damaged teeth found. This is sitting on the screw thread and is attached to the saddle. Hopefully using the correct terminology here. Should I be worried?"

John M, not 100% sure but that looks like the drive gear that connects to the rack ? not the lead screw ? Difficult to be completely sure but it looks to me as though it should clean up and work OK.

Looking at the bed, again it really needs to be hands on inspection but it appears to be badly corroded at the back ? After rust removal you may need to consider re-grinding, if this is the case look at local engine boring grinding services - they usually have a machine capable of grinding engine blocks and cylinder heads. They are limited to grinding the top surface only but it gives you a head start, a pal in my village had a Super 7 done - work out very well after some handwork to finish.

Good luck with the re-build John

Hi everyone who posted on this subject -- as others have already said BE VERY WARY of substituting materials for the recommended string or plastic blades. Some years ago in south Cumbria there was an accident with a strimmer fitted with commercial metal blades [now banned I believe ] I cannot remember the details but two men were working together, the blade from the strimmer detached and killed the other man outright ! A freak accident maybe but better safe than sorry IMO !

As a matter of interest I use Oregon Duoline in my strimmer, it has some sort of reinforced core and lasted better than any of the standard nylon types I have used.

Be safe John

CCB - I have a Femi horizontal saw and you can purchase or make - very easily - a table to use it in the vertical position, it is not in the same league as a Startrite or similar but it works well enough for the home workshop. Yes they are by comparison to the Eastern offerings but I have never regretted my purchase, the table accessory is expensive and very easy to make,

Would i buy the saw agin -- defiantly but not the table I would make one. See the link to one supplier and if you scroll down you can see the table accessory .

**LINK**

Should yo go down this route and wanted details of the table just PM me.

John

Welcome to the forum John, another Lancashire lad here -- t'other side of't t'hill from Fizzy though just outside the County town!

Looks a fair project you have acquired !  Where in Lancashire are you ?

John

Edited By JohnF on 29/03/2019 12:18:55