Member postings for JohnF

Don’t want to hijack the thread but thought this may be of interest? My Dad brought it home after demob at the end of WW2 (1946) it was made/cast by the chap who’s family he was billeted with in Holland at some point. I repainted it for my son about 45 years ago and re-made the “roof” bars the canvas top has since gone missing, wife made that!

more pics in my “miscellaneous pics” file if your interested

Woodlikesbikes see your messages

I would say no defiantly not and if as you said the old motor was damaged then your supposition of the machine being dropped or ?? is more than likely.

Personally I would remove the mounting plate and straighten the two adjustment bars. I actually have an MF4 with the same adjustment system and it is at 90deg as one would expect

John

Should have had a lamp under the sump !

I would forget taps and go down Larry's route making a boring bar with a HSS tool ground to the thread form and dependant on the capabilities of your machine I would consider setting the top slide to 27 1/2 deg thus reducing cutting forces on a large thread.

The first thing i would make is a gauge to ensure your new back plate will fit your wood lathe spindle, To do this measure the spindle using the 3 wire system then make a male duplicate to the same dimension over the wires the as long as that fits your female backplate thread you know it will fit the spindle.

John

Hi Peter,

Only my opinion of course but I would not have any of this type of devise, Alexia, the Google one etc in my home, from what little I understand - not a lot - they all snoop and learn "far ower much"

I don't even allow Facebook to have access to my photos, I did but then found they had put together a compilation of my photos on my page !!!! switched it off henceforth. I no longer use Google as a search engine I use DuckDuckgo with no tracking.

Maybe I'm being paranoid but I just do not trust this type of technology.

John

They do look a little larger than I have seen but possibly for a Toolmakers microscope?

Mark B, I purchased one of these many years ago from what is now MSC — heap of junk IMO I returned it for a refund. The support for the main spindle consisted of Allen screws with a ball bearing inserted in the end, general build quality and tolerance was poor.

The concept is good if you have a surface grinder but treat the unit as a set of castings and rework everything plus a redesign of the support system !

Only my opinion of course and it’s possible the quality may have improved over 25 years since my purchase?

John

Lots of info on the web just search “Jacobs Chuck disassembly” I have no t looked at any but lots of videos etc etc.

Never tried this but regarding the slippage of the outer ring maybe reassembly with Loctite May solve the problem? Any thoughts anyone !

John

JDS said

When I measured a ground 6mm pin the the collet I am getting 0.0015 runout right at the collet face and 0.0035 about 50mm out from the collet.

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In a later post you say the other larger collets are pretty much the same - are you saying they all have .0015 at face then .0035 at 2” or50mm from the collet ?

If this is so it would suggest the collet location taper is at an angle to the machine spindle axis ? To prove this Thor’s suggestion will assist.

John

I don't know the tolerance for the DIN spec you quote but I would be disappointed and expect better results. However collets are made in varying qualities thus giving varying results.

The first thing I would do is repeat the test with several other collets using nominal sizes, 8, 10mm etc, if the same result is shown then suspect the chuck, if results are better then you may well have a duff 6mm collet.

John

William, never heard of it before and admittedly not an ideal thing to do but you seem to have checked everything you can and no ill effects so stop worrying !

Although the main bearing oil cups were empty, when there is no load on the spindle it will retain and oil film and if this had broken down assuming your machine has the white metal bearings they would have "run" and you could not miss this. Hot motor - only to be expected but clearly OK - no bad smells.

It really goes to show the longevity built into these machines

John

Plus one for pgk's last statement, I have advocated for many years in modern times its is crazy to build on prime agricultural land that we need to feed ourselves.

Far better to build on less productive land wherever that may be -- I can already hear the screams of anguish but better than screams of hunger in many years hence - bonus no flooding of homes !

As Noel says quality will pay dividends, the cheap files you are looking at will probably be worse then the ones you have - assuming they are/were of good quality ? Vallorbe are a top quality but expensive brand, Bacho are a good brand. Look here as well **LINK** I have bought these from Arc and find them excellent value for money -- no connection other than a happy customer.

John

Giovanni,

Have a look at this thread **LINK** I think you will find it useful, it seems to be what you are looking for -- a long read but hopefully will solve your problem ?

John

This may also be of interest **LINK** for imperial screws etc

John

Merry Christmas one and all hope everyone has a peaceful family day and let us hope 2021 is a better year

Cheers everyone John

IRT -- A little more information, what size is the component, What's it for? How do you propose to do the case hardening, with just a torch and some kasenit type compound or will you use a muffle furnace and pack hardening?

In either case as has been said you can insert a screw but its a good idea to lubricate the thread with Black Lead - the stuff used on fire grates or just fill the hole with clay. Clay will harden but can be drilled out later and the thread cleaned up. Difficult to do in a hole but copper plating any area you want left soft is generally used to prevent carburisation.

John

Anybodies guess ! but less than 4.0" ?? however for the sake of £12 why not buy one from Arc ? You will then know the product and have recourse if there is a problem

John

ChrisH, sounds to me your lathe is well worthy of a new chuck and i can understand your frustration with the existing one. My advice would be buy the best you can afford !My chucks are Burnard, TOS & Bison, plus an Emco 3-jaw which I believe were made by Rhom ?

However at one point I wanted a 4 jaw self centring chuck and purchased a 4 inch HBM from RDG tools, it was pretty good when holding a bar full length of the jaws but if gripped at the front there was a more noticeable runout - not a unusual occurrence. Eventually I purchased a 4 jaw TOS from Rotagrip which was much better, not a massive amount but better and I do like quality tools.

A pal who was on a budget and could not justify spending a larger sum purchased a Sanou chuck, I helped him to fit this and was pleasantly surprised how good it was for the price.

Whilst soft jaws are invaluable in industry and occasional use in the home workshop but I would find them frustrating for everyday use.

Just my thoughts John