Member postings for JohnF

First I would clock the main spindle face and register to ensure all is well, assuming it is then make sure there are no defects on the mating part of the faceplate then as Jason says skim the faceplate. I would also mark the orientation of the FP so you can always mount it in the same location on the machine spindle. I do this for all my chucks etc .

Leadscrew cover, just poor design and easy fix is remove it but maybe consider a telescopic replacement if it will fit ?

John

Hi, I think you need to revert to imperial sizes and my guess is the ML10 leadscrew is 5/8" 0.625 inches so best to azure a 5/8? reamer !

John

PS where are yo located ? nothing on your profile !

Duncan, I do have the MT2 spindle nose adaptor and I think - have to check an MT4 step up sleeve 2-4 0r 3-4 have to check, if its of interest please PM me.

John

Jeremy, I would look on Ebay for a Sanou chuck and look at Warco for a backplate - see the link on here to Warco site, they also operated a vat free system for export.

John

Hi unless I misunderstood Vic is wanting an ER32 collet chuck to fit a Myford spindle ? - photo here**LINK** If thats what he wants then yes the spindle thread is Whitworth form, the collet nut thread is of course metric.

John

Hi Vic, I have one by HBM form RDG some years ago, it is very accurate -- maybe I was just lucky because i think this direct fitting type is problematic regarding accuracy. About 18 moths back I purchased another from RC -Machines in Europe and there were several problems, sort of resolved, accuracy acceptable but not as good as the HBM.

I like this design of chuck but the best way is to make your own, commercial one suffer from too wide a tolerance particularly on the spindle register -- they are made to P fit !!!! I also discovered the RC one had a 60* thread form not 55* Whitworth ! To produce these commercially to the accuracy required would make them far too expensive for many hobby users.

Just my two pennyworth of thoughts.

John

Hi it’s the Centap that stained not the Coconut dissolved in CTC I suppose I should said two questions on the original post.

Bill P interesting about warming the Coconut to make it liquid, it was of course why we dissolved it in CTC now a definitive NO !

I do wonder what was in Centap that made it so effective? Unfortunately I can’t even remember who the makers were and zip on the Internet !

John

A question for the team, does anyone remember Centap cutting oil ? Back in the 1960/70’s it was widely used and very effective for mild steel, carbon steels etc. It had a strong aromatic smell. There was one downside it would stain the machine if not cleaned of after use. Used neat from the drum.

It seems to have disappeared from sale, no idea who the supplier was but it would be interesting to know what was in the concoction?

Another lube we used was Coconut grease dissolved in Carbon Tet — I know shock horror but it was again a great lube for “difficult” steels

John

Bob, The American gun blue is also Birchwood Casey, but have a look at UK Phillips professional gun blue, it's a liquid and easier to apply than the paste types, your local gun shop will almost certainly be able to supply.

If you wish here is a youtube I came across doing a quick rust blue, never tried it so usual caveats ! all the ingredients are household chemicals **LINK**

A finely polished -- not buffed -- finish will give the best results, what you strat with you will finish with !

John

Peter, why countersunk ? I don’t recall ever seeing CsK being used and IMO socket head is far better, stronger, larger socket size thus better for torquing up.

John

PS if you don’t get fixed up PM me

Hi Keith no they are correct providing they are not vat registered i.e. their turnover is below the vat threshold. With mail order if you are vat registered the postage you buy on behalf of the customer becomes a service and is thus liable for vat, if you are not vat registered you cannot or should not issue a vat invoice and thus there is no need to add vat to any service you provide.

A vat registered trader can of course absorb the vat applicable to the postage, however they should IMO still show the goods plus freight plus vat on the invoice particularly if it is going to a vat registered person/company. To private individual it makes no real difference because they cannot reclaim the vat.

John

edit spelling !

Edited By JohnF on 12/05/2021 17:02:00

Hi Bob clearly too hard ! Going just blue will be around 300* C you need to be above that at around 310 or 320*C even up to 340*C look a Neil’s colour chart. I temper my springs in a muffle furnace, another point why quench in water after tempering ? The wrong medium use oil. Also do you know for sure what the material is ? rather than spring steel, it make a considerable difference, you need EN45 or EN47 45 is best and traditionally used for gun springs. See you PM’s

John

Gazz, was just digging around and came upon this by chance, it may solve your problem ?

https://www.engineering-gauge.co.uk/products/digital-depth-micrometers

John

Ah yes Michael I always had this in mind when offering advice from years of experience -- " The customer is always right, sometimes a little misguided sometimes downright stupid but always right ! "

John

Edit PS I also think its a retrograde step to remove the SD slots etc -- who wants a heap of accessories when they can be built in ?

Edited By JohnF on 13/04/2021 11:07:30

Edited By JohnF on 13/04/2021 11:09:08

Bob, don't waste your time with Gauge plate, completely the wrong material, get some EN45 Spring steel, you defiantly must forge the spring when red hot, you need to keep a small gap, say 0.010" at the heal of the bend. File to shape and ensure the two legs have an even taper. Harden from red heat in oil and temper to a little over 300*C I usually go for 320*C

Good luck John

Give the chaps at Power Capacitors / Trnaswave in Birmingham a call I'm sure they will advise, I had a problem with a compressor motor the makers agent wanted an eye watering sum for a replacement I think PCap charged about a fiver !

John

Plus one for DC31k’s comments, indeed the write up in the link is not clear whether the shed shown has a wooden floor or not !

As a way to create a plinth to erect a shed with a floor set on bearers I think this system would work well but not for a shed without a floor thus this being the floor .

John

Jon, I am a member also but rarely visit due to lack of activity compared to here !

Members are helpful but it takes considerable time for replies to appear and sometimes never, I agree one would expect much more activity with the popularity of woodwork.

There is another site UKworkshop that seems as prolific as this, it covers a multitude of activities but leans towards woodwork.

John

It’s really down to cleanliness and years of practice and even then it can and does go wrong and you have to start over. Also always watch the colours in daylight not in artificial light.

As far as cold Gun blue it’s fine for small parts but it will not give you the same colour as the heat oxide blue. Cold “blue” is nearer t o black.

John

Hi Tug, well my two pennyworth -- it should not and cannot happen !!! but it did and I'm sure you will have checked my thoughts but they are that there are 3 possibilities where it could. 1, the centre in the cutter has failed/broken 2, the thread on the cutter has stripped 3, the thread in the collet has stripped. Any of these would prevent the auto tightening feature from working. Plus as you said the nut was extra tight as it would be due to cutting forces but you could remove the cutter by hand so the collet was not gripping -- both of which point to one of the above failures.

Hope this may help

John

Edited By JohnF on 24/02/2021 19:49:05