Member postings for Stewart Hart

Zan

I was concerned with ash dropping on the axle so I also made a new ash pan and fitted a brass guard to go over the axle to try and keep the axle clean of ash.

The fact that only one axle box wore led me away from entirely blaming ash, but as I'd got it in bits any way i thought I would edge my bets.

Stew

Hi Bob

The track is a very good one visitors often comment on how good it is, and no one at the club has had this problem before so I doubt its the track.

Interesting comment about the Simplex being front heavy I preloaded the springs with the no weight on the wheels this suggest that I should have lighter loaded springs at the front. I know some people set their springs with each axle in turn sitting on scales so that each axle carries the same weight but we don't have this bit of kit at our club.

Thanks for you useful input.

Cheers

Stew

Hi Dave

To answer you ?.

The axles had worn about 1 mm undersize, they are fixed to the wheel with loctite and a grub screw along the joint of the wheel I when I replaced the wheels I put in a bigger M4 grub screw, in the same location.

The good axle box had about 0.1 mm ovality when I clocked it that was the movement of the clock that I got so I figured that would be acceptable.

I secured the thread hanger studs in the axle boxes with thread lock and used nylock nuts that shouldn't come undone, but I will keep a close eye on them.

I'll be running the loco this Sunday so I'll let you know how she goes.

Stew

Edited By Stewart Hart on 30/03/2018 09:00:12

Edited By Stewart Hart on 30/03/2018 09:17:14

I've been in touch with another club member and he remembers Glyn building the boiler with another member Ron Maddocks:- its an experimental boiler for Juliet with a deeper fire box to try and increase the efficiency. Glyn was the clubs boiler inspector for many years and I'm sure they would have the fundamentals of the design correct by the looks of it they tested it as well but the boiler was never stamped up, the years caught up with these two wonderful model engineers before they could complete the project.

I'll give the boiler a good check over to ensure that they got the design parameters correct and give it a shell test and stamp it up with a number and offer it to another club member who I know who is building a Juliet, if they don't want it would any of you guys be interested ?.

Stew

A club member recently passed away, and the club was asked by his relatives to disposing of the content of his workshop. Among the effects we found a completed 3 1/2 gauge boiler that looks well made but no one can identify the locomotive it was intended for so can any of you Guys identify it?.

Cheers

Stew

Edited By Stewart Hart on 28/03/2018 09:50:10

Thanks for the book links chaps I've down loaded some usefull information

Stew

Hi Mick

I think its the lantern type holder as you showed on you photo.

Thanks for the offer

Stew

Just to keep you updated on this.

I've repaired the worn bearing by pressing in a oilite bearing I did both journals just to keep that axle the same.

This is how.

First made a new axle.

Then centred the mill on the unworn axle block using a co-axle clock.

Zeroed the DRO and locked the slides and with a vice stop

Bored out the worn axle box.

Then bored the unworn bearing out.

The Oilite bearing were over size on the OD so made an expandable mandrel.

Turned the bearing down for a tight fit in the axle box

Pressed the bearing in with a spot of Loctite for good measure

Job Done

Stew

Edited By Stewart Hart on 26/03/2018 08:53:34

John/Mick

Thanks for your replies.

John:- I've taken note of the belt code, but could I trouble you for the motor HP and speed just to check that its the correct one.

Mick:- I'll measure the tool holder up and will post a drawing when I've showered and shaved. a picture of your other tool holders would be useful.

I used a shaper when I was an apprentice a lot of years ago so I've got a bit of a learning curve to climb, so could any one recommend a book.

Thanks Again

Stew

Edited By Stewart Hart on 26/03/2018 08:22:16

I've just acquired a Perfecto Shaper I think its a no 3 the 5" stroke model, its complete except for the tool holder and drive belt and the motor needs mounting and wiring up and the drive pulley needs re-bushing, but all sortable issues.

I've emailed lathes.co for information/manual.

But has any one got any info on it, particularly regarding the size of V belt

Her's a few pictures of it hot off the press.

Cheers

Stew

This year is the 50th Anniversary of the founding of the club so helps us celebrate by attending one of our events.

Look forward to seeing you

Stew

You can try getting one laser cut there's plenty of jobbing shops with laser cutters around all you need to do is send them a drawing and ask for a quote

This is one I had done.

And the completed fly wheel

Stew

Thanks for your input and discussion Gents

I'm coming round to the opinion of David that the wear was caused by uneven axle loading, as I've eliminated crank pin and rod alignment issues.

I have material to make new axle boxes and axles but I'm contemplating bushing out the axles with either a phosphor bronze or oilite bearing as this would save a lot of time, I can use the unworn box with stops to help set up the worn box and use a boring head in the mill to open it out, I'd do the unworn one as well so both are the same.

I use a slightly different approach to making axle boxes to David but both methods ensure that the critical feature of ensuring both boxes are aligned identical with the bore in the centre.

Using the four jaw I bore the boxes and finish off with a reamer.

Then I turn up a mandrel a close fit on the bore, I then centre this mandrel true in the spin indexer

Mount the axle box on the mandrel then mill the groove for the horn box taking the same amount of each side, so when the axle will be exactly in the centre of the horn.

To quarter the wheels I use my home made quartering jig.

Stew

The axle journal on that side has worn down 0.4mm the other side has negligible wear.

Hi David

I roll mine on its side after each run unfortunately its been the same side, the effected bearing always ended up on top so the bearing wasn't that visible and I missed it, I did notice the spring hanger was coming lose and just kept tightening it up, but it never occurred to me that it would cause the bearing to wear.

I've got material to make a new axle and boxes, but I'm thinking about boring out the boxes and inserting an Oilite bearings with a new axle.

Stew

Well over 100 hours I don't log my running time so it could be approach 200

Nope:- she was running like a little sewing machine.

Stew

I completed my Simplex three years ago and I've had it in steam for well over 100 hours in that time and its run very well.

I decided to give it a good check over and clean the clack,injectors etc ready for the running season when the weather improves.

And I found that one of the rear axle boxes had excessive wear, all the other axle boxes showed no sign of wear.

As the ash pan sits over the top of this axle I thought that ash was getting onto the axle, but I have a brass guard over the axle that on inspection seems to be doing its job.

All the bearings get a good oiling before I run so I don't think its lack of oil and the oil ways were clear.

A friend said that he had seen this before on a 7 1/4" loco and suggested that it may be due to uneven axle loading from the springing, resulting in a lot of the weight being carried by that one axle causing it to run hot and wear. When I stripped it down I did find that one of the spring hangers had come lose which supports this suggestion.

Has any one else come across this or has any other ideas as to its cause.

Stew

As Neil said but give the parts a good wire brushing to get rid of the ash/crud after it cools, I've used this method and it worked for me.

Stew

Just to give you some idea of whats involved in making the valve linkage

This is the Radius Rod

Square up a length of mild steel bar mill the slots and drill holes and corner positions, then chew out the material not wanted.

This gives you some idea where they go on the loco.

Stew

Depends where you want to measure:- depth of full diameter or to the point also the point is a radius so I guess a pin with a radius would be the way to go. For full diameter simply drop a rod in of known diameter and length and measure to the top of that, but to be honest most jobs wouldn't require that amount of precision.

Stew