Member postings for Chris Gunn

Mike, here is a dummy screw down greaser fitted to my 6" 4CD, under the cap is a TAT flat grease nipple. If you want to go down this route I can help you with the grease nipples, just PM me.

Chris Gunn

MIke, I would advocate grease as well, it will fill up the gap between the 2 bearings which will act as a reservoir. Just be careful when you drill the hole in the hub to make sure the greaser is in the middle of 2 spokes on the outside of the wheel so you can get at it easily.

Chris Gunn

Richard it took me 5 1/2 years as well to do my 6" Garrett, and the feeling when it runs for the first time is fantastic. Congratulations and you can now look forward to some happy rallying.

Chris Gunn

Piero, a light tap with a copper mallet should release it without damage to the bearings. If it doesn't, then the draw bar has been tightened too much.

Chris Gunn

David, I had a further look myself today, and could not find much about Marlco other than it seems WDS bought the Marlco broaching part of the business and still uses the brand today, and I suspect the rest of it has gone.

I bought mine from a stall holder at one of the exhibitions when used tool dealers could afford a stand. It is really handy and I use it all the time. Mine came with a chuck fitted which I have never removed, with inside and outside jaws.

Chris Gunn

David, this looks very much like my Marlco spin indexer, mine has a lever to release to index it, and 2 clamps. Maybe this is an earlier version?

Chris Gunn

I have just produced a spreadsheet of the tapping drills for metric coarse taps from M2 to M20, using the data from all the sources I normally refer to, like Zeus, Starrett, Machineries handbook and so on. If anyone wants a copy please PM me. I have tried incorporating it into this text but the formatting messes the table up or is too many characters. It is now in the form of an Excel spreadsheet so you can add your favourite reference sources to it.

Chris Gunn

Rod, perhaps you should read my original post again, I did not insist on anything, I just commented on what is stamped on some M8 taps in the hope it may help the OP. Is it your round?

Chris Gunn

Rod, thanks for your contribution, it certainly would help the OP to solve his problem, is there any need to be insulting?

Piero, if you have a power transmission company locally pop in with the link belt, they can measure it and supply you with a Vee belt to do the job. I do not like link belts either, but they can get you out of trouble.

Chris Gunn

Many of the Metric taps I mainly use have the tapping drill stamped on, and for M8 it always says 6.8 drill.

Chris Gunn

Bill, I find gloves a hindrance as well, one thing I do is when the solder stick is getting short, stick it to the next rod and then you can move your hand back a bit. Alternatively hold the short end in pliers or jam it into the end of a piece of dowel.

Chris Gunn

Mark, I do 95% of my turning with replaceable tip tools on a Bantam, and I have a knife tool with triangular tips, and also a large boring bar using the same tip. I have a chamfering/facing tool using square tips, a small boring bar with small triangular tips, I use the same small tip on a fly cutter on the mill. I have a JB 6mm round button tool for nice radiuses when I need them, and a JB diamond shaped tool to use with a live centre, and a JB tipped parting tool which I use in the rear tool post, and that is it.

The tip holders are all branded, and all use ISO standard tips which are available everywhere. I have never ever had a problem with the Torx screws, but I always blow any dirt or swarf out of the screw head when I change them.

I would always go for used branded tool holders over cheap new ones with non standard tips. I would not buy sets just buy what you need, and check the on line catalogues for extra information.

Chris Gunn

Phil, the brake designs you will see are usually for appearance sake on the smaller engines, and used as a parking brake. you cannot get them on fast enough while running. In operation your real brake will be on the driving trolley.

Chris Gunn

Matty, I am not familiar with the Unit engine, but another possibility could be to drill the cylinder right through and then use a reamer to finish which you could also go right through with, then make a cylinder cover to close the top. This all depends on what material you have around the bore of course. Most larger engines have through bores and cylinder covers so they can be machined more easily than a blind hole.

Chris Gunn

As Jason says you need to fill out the V112, stating the vehicle is MOT exempt, but when I went through the process as described above in May this year I had no problems at all, and when the process was complete, a big envelope arrived with all my supporting documentation in it. I would suggest that if the guidelines are followed properly, then all proceeds along, albeit slowly, so plan ahead.

Chris Gunn

Scrumpy, I used the link below to help me register my 6" Garrett a few months ago, I filled in the forms as suggested, and in due course was allocated a Vin number which I got stamped on the engine, sent the form relating to that back, and in due course got the registration number and the permission to get a numberplate.

http://shirevillageinns.co.uk/register/rmte.htm

Chris Gunn

Gareth, your other option is to go for a Transwave type phase converter, this will deliver 415v which means you can run the original 2 speed motor and use all the carefully selected speeds available. You will also be able to run the coolant pump if you start the main motor first. I have run my Bantam like this for 25 years or so like this, and just connect the unit to the original connections for the incoming 3 phase supply.

Chris Gunn

Mark, just heat it up to red heat and let it cool naturally, do not hold it under the tap, then it will be soft. Be careful you do not crush it though. It will work harden if you keep working it, and you just reheat it and let it cool again and away you go.

Chris Gunn

Sean. I would try and find out where your smaller local engineering companies are, and what they do, and what they could have in their scrap bin, then approach them with a picture of what model you are working on, and start scrounging. If you offer to top up their tea fund I find most are interested and helpful. My scrapyard will not let anyone have a rootle around, and as many have said, you do not know what you are getting.

Chris Gunn