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Member postings for Peter G. Shaw

Here is a list of all the postings Peter G. Shaw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Disassembling of Minimill / X2-clone / XJ-12 Ballbearings
09/06/2010 20:37:26
Hi Roberto,
 
Does this help?
 

I mounted mine on the front of the motor casing.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Magnetic chuck/plate construction
09/06/2010 20:34:27
Hi Graham,
 
Dave Lammas discusses mag.chucks in a series in ME starting 03 Feb 89 ending 02 Jun 89.
 
Also, Michael Jacot in ME 01 Aug 97 discusses a mag.chuck using a ceramic magnet from a bus gear box. At the time, I did wonder if it might be possible to use a ring magnet from a loudspeaker.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Disassembling of Minimill / X2-clone / XJ-12 Ballbearings
09/06/2010 12:48:52
Hi Roberto,
 
Agree with the dials, but still difficult to use. I have a conversion table on my mill giving the number of divisions for varying amounts of travel, eg say 1mm and 0.25 mm. So if I want 1.25mm, I add the two numbers together. Job done.
 
Haven't checked spindle run out.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Forum Posts Obscured by Advertisments
07/06/2010 09:43:28
It's happening to me as well, such that I cannot properly read your latest post about the Sieg X2's etc.
 
I assume it's a site fault, and hence will wait until it's put right.
 
Regards
 
Peter G. Shaw
 
Update.
 
As far as I can see, this problem is only affecting the thread "Disassembling of MiniMill....".
 
A temporary way round it is to use copy the text into Wordpad using, highlight, Control C and Control V (when in Wordpad)
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw

Edited By Peter G. Shaw on 07/06/2010 09:51:56

Thread: Disassembling of Minimill / X2-clone / XJ-12 Ballbearings
06/06/2010 22:00:41
Still doesn't work, and the yahoo reference wants me to join a group. So I give up.
 
Many thanks, John anyway.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw

05/06/2010 21:54:45
John,
 
The link doesn't work for me. Can you help?
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Hobbymat MD65 needs assistance to start
30/05/2010 21:38:23
Back in the early to mid'90s, Essel Engineering supplied a very useful speed adaptor for the Hobbymat lathe. This gave an additional two lower speeds of 125 and 63 rpm.
 
I have no connection with this firm, other than the fact that at that time I had a Hobbymat and was quite frightened when I tried screwcutting under power at the manufacturer's original minimum speed of 250rpm.
 
After that, I made a mandrel handle - more work, but certainly less "exciting"!
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw 
Thread: The story behind logging in...
24/05/2010 12:31:38
John,
 
Your idea works re copying before sending. I like it. Many thanks.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
24/05/2010 12:30:22
David,
 
As you say, the thread is somehow messed up. For example,  the headline banner is in the wrong position (just above John Shepherd's latest post and obscuring the bottom of the post above.
 
But to answer John's point about responsiveness of the moderators etc, there have been two or three issues lately which aroused complaints, and which have been very quickly acted on. I don't think your point John is particularly fair.
 
John, I like your idea of copying the post before hitting "Add posting". It seems even easier than my method. I'll try it with this post.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
23/05/2010 21:47:03
Hi,
I have never had any problem logging in from day 1. And although I have had occasional problems with being logged out when typing a reply, I have by now found a fairly easy workaround.
 
In respect of logging in, I always type both ny userid & my password, which means that I don't get any stray characters creeping in - other than those I've typed of course.
 
About the logging out function. What I have found is that if typing in the "Post a reply" box, as I am now, the system will eventually log me out as it thinks I;ve gone away. However the browser still allows me to kepp composing the message. Then, when I click on "AddPosting", I get asked to login again. So I do just that.
 
Having logged back in, I then use the browser Back button to get back to the screen with my text on it. Highlight the text, press Control C to put the text somewhere (Clipboard I think), then use the browser Forward button to get back to the blank "Post a reply" box. Click on the top left hand corner of the box, press Control V, and the text is magically inserted, etc.
 
I don't use Word. I have used Notepad occasionally, but really, with this method I don't need to do anything else.
 
Regards.
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: "Foundation" book has got me worried
26/04/2010 12:46:16
Hi,
This is a long standing perennial everhappening (and anything else you can think of) sore point!
 
Like you, I use my garage. Like you it's uninsulated and single skin brick built. Ok, I have given up and rather than attermpt to keep it dry, I now protect the tools.
 
Originally I used to spray with WD40 - got a 5ltr/1gal can many years ago from Halfords and still going strong. This worked, but was messy (and smelly). Then someone suggested heating the equipment. I now use on the lathe two small nominally 10w self-regulating heaters and on the milling machine one 10W heater. These were obtained from RS Components (rswww.com) and as far as the lathe is concerned I have not had any rust problems for 3 or 4 years now.
 
I used to cover the lathe with an old clothy type table cover (at least I think that's what it was) and a sheet of plastic. Now, I don't bother unless I'm doing something else exceptionally dirty.
 
In respect of the miller, I have only had it for 18 months, but so far it's been ok - and that's through the recent cold winter.
 
The downside is that these heaters are nominally 10W. In fact, because they are self regulating, they do seem to take rather more power than that - last time I checked it was 18W each, but this is within the specification and is correct.
 
I have also aquired (nice loose term that) from somewhere, a heating mat for a fishtank. This is underneath a sheet of aluminium on which is sat those items for the lathe which need to be rust free, chucks, vertical slide, even the mag mount and dti. This worked fine - until the garage roof leaked, that is, but I don't think I can cater for every eventuality.
 
So there you are, my take on it. Probably expensive, ie something like 60w in total all year round, but it works and I'm happy. There are alternative methods of heating. One idea was a small, 10W or so, bulb under the lathe. Another idea may be to use heating tape (again from RS Components).
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Pop-up for digital.
26/04/2010 12:28:19
Thanks David & Kelvin. It's nice to see some responsiveness from a business.
 
Sid,
 
You are quite right about the cookies - I had forgotten them. Probably in part because I, along with a lot of other junk, disable them as much as possible. I have strong objections to other people placing stuff on MY computer without MY permission, and that includes Microsoft!
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw.
 
Thread: Cutting Bevel Gears
25/04/2010 17:07:03
Glad to have been of help.
 
Good luck with your cutting.
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Pop-up for digital.
25/04/2010 17:04:01
Second that Chris.
 
Many thanks David.
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Cutting Bevel Gears
25/04/2010 13:34:03
I have found references to making bevel gears in the following:
ME Peter Foyle (20.07.97) & Dave Lammas (10.10.97).
MEW88 & 92 (Feb 03 onwards) Brian Perkins & Jim Whetren MEW 31 (possibly Sep 95 or thereabouts)
 
At least one of these, the Lammas one I think, is concerned with parallel depth gears.

 Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
 OK edit no. 1!
 
Abort the Dave Lammas comment. Iwas thinking of an article by G. Tardrew in ME 18 July 1986 titled Parallel Depth Bevel Gears. The article contains descriptions and calculations.
 
 

Edited By Peter G. Shaw on 25/04/2010 13:40:51

Thread: Pop-up for digital.
25/04/2010 13:20:44
Sid,
 
Nice idea, but it simply won't work. You see, I, and I expect a number of other people as well, will access the site, have a read, and then only logon if they have something to say. The problem is that whilst the site may know how many people are reading, there is no way that the site can know who is reading until the reader logs on.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
 
 
24/04/2010 10:54:04
Let me just add my name and vote against pop-ups. Adverts if you must (I for one simply ignore them), but intrusive pop-ups, no.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Disassembling of Minimill / X2-clone / XJ-12 Ballbearings
23/04/2010 21:48:14
I too had heard that some of the belt conversions don't necessarily fit the Warco/Amadeal MiniMills. This was why when mine broke, I got replacement plastic ones from Warco under warranty, then, when I found out about them, I bought the metal gears in readiness for the next breakage.
 
John,
 
Which version of the mill have you got, and what were the bearings you used?
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
20/04/2010 15:17:27
Hi Marcus,
 
You should find the MiniMill users guide here: http://littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniMillUsersGuide.pdf.

Thanks for the info re the angular contact bearings. This suggests that perhaps my outer ring is not tight enough! I look forward to your final results with interest.
 
Metal gears are available from ArcEuroTrade. They are also used in the C3 lathe and that is where you will find them, ie under C3 lathe spares. In fact the designation shows, I think, C3/X2.
 
If you search using X2 or MiniMill or something similar, you will find somewhere that there are various suggestions for stiffening the column. I would have to do a search to find them again, but they are there somewhere. Basically, it seems that one way is to clamp a large steel plate on the back.
 
Similarly, you will find information of how to accurately set the mill by using shims in various places. Again, I can't tell you where because I would have to search again.
 
I perhaps should explain that when I come across some of these things, I make a mental note that it does exist, and then some time later search again when I'm ready to use that information, hence my lack of assistence here.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: X2 type mini mill PCB speed control
20/04/2010 15:04:01
My workshop is my garage, and rather than attempt to prevent condensation in the garage itself, I have decided to tackle it by keeping the machines slightly warm. To this end I have fitted  some small enclosure heaters from RSWWW onto both the lathe and the mill.
 
The lathe has been fitted with these for some years now and has not had any condensation whatsoever. The mill has only been there for 18months, but that does seem ok as well.
 
Regarding condensation in a hut. I have a hut which was going to be used for electronic stuff so I fitted it with two tubular heaters. Back in January, I found that my expensive test gear was running with water. I have now moved this gear back into the house.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
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