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Member postings for Peter G. Shaw

Here is a list of all the postings Peter G. Shaw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: New or Second Hand Lathe?
20/02/2011 22:32:38
When I first got involved with the hobby. I bought a s/h Hobbymat. Shortly afterwards, I discovered it was turning convex - a big no-no. Removal of the front label revealed a large casting flaw which had been there since manufacture according to the paint inside it. That lathe as exchanged by the importer for a new one.

Eventually, I wanted a larger lathe, and by this time I knew enough to know that I didn't know enough to be able to safely s/h again. I spoke to Myford who do sometimes have refurbished machines, only they were not interested in a p/x for a refurbished lathe, so I ended up spending in the order of £1500 in total on a new import which I still have. Frankly, it isn't the best of lathes.

Even now, after 20 or so years, I still don't know enough to be able to be certain of getting a good s/h lathe, so, my suggestion would be, especially if you don't have a p/x, to contact Myford and see what they can do for you.

Good luck,

Peter G. Shaw

 
Thread: pinnacle mill drill
12/02/2011 15:53:28
Don't know anything at all about these machines.
 
However, a quick Google came up with some discussion about one model of Pinnacle, and the information that Excel Machine Tools were involved in them, but support forthcoming.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Milling Chucks
10/02/2011 15:39:40
What John is describing is something similar to George McLatchie's design for the Warco MiniMill in MEW96 (Feb 2004). A very good idea which works like a dream.

All I want now is one for the lathe!
 
Regards,

Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Condensation in workshops
10/02/2011 15:32:43
I always thought I had plenty of ventilation - soffits etc don't fit very well and the roller door lets plenty air through, especially in the teeth of even a moderate SW wind. Rear door opens into a porch which was deliberately built to allow plenty of ventilation while giving protection from the wilder elements, although I do take the point about an air change on closing down after a session. Trouble is, to do that will involve raising the garage door slightly which then becomes an open invitation to the local cats, and next doors dog. I've even had a cat come in the house through two open doors on hot summer days whilst I have been on the computer! Blasted nuisance!
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Tip build-up
10/02/2011 15:23:49
Richard,
 
O.D. about 34mm. Original wall thickness about 3.2 to 3.4mm. After much machining, down to 2mm at one side. Tube is quite rusty on inside, noticeably so in one or two places. Tube is quite old - 20/30/40 years? More? Suspect possible came from Dad's so don't really know it's source or provenance other than it does appear greyish black (or blackish grey ?) on outside - not paint. Definitely welded as can see seam in places, took a lot of turning to get down below the rusted weld, and there is a very thin narrow longitudinal line appearing.
 
Original idea was to create a pair of circular squares as per BogStandards instructions. Although parallel, not as smooth as I want, and getting concerned about remaining wall thickness standing up to clamping pressure. Hence idea abandoned in favour of a solid device as per Harold Hall's book.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: mini electric motor
10/02/2011 09:56:26
Thanks Nick,
 
Peter G. Shaw
09/02/2011 13:05:42
Ian,
 
I'm intrigued. What would a cellphone use a motor for? Could it be the vibrating alarm?
 
Regards,
 
Peter
Thread: Condensation in workshops
09/02/2011 13:02:49
Hi Terry,
 
I don't know what the old tablecloth is made from. All I know is that it is green, torn, and got a raised pattern on it. Actually, come to think of it, I don't even know if it was a tablecloth, it's been there so long. I suspect it's actually a manmade fibre.
 
Don't know anything about dew points, hygrostatics or whatever. What I do know is that my system has worked well now for a few years in that rusting does not appear even in the cold weather we've experienced recently, so something must be right. Ok, extreme cold means that the air cannot hold as much water so maybe that's nothing to go by for me.
 
I think that from my point of view, strictly as an amateur, if something works, then that's good enough and in this sort of situation, where I simply am not interested, deep technical discussions simply glaze the eyes. Don't misunderstand me - the fact that you do know about it and can advise as such is a bonus not to be sniffed at, and I thank you for your comments. Maybe I'll resurrect the old piece of plastic as well.
 
Interestingly, I use the same principle on the miller - small heater, miller covered by the plastic bag it originally came in, and on top of that a cloth thingy which came from my parents some years ago. Again I don't know what the cloth is, suspect something manmade, and probably a seat cover or something similar. (Mother was into making things like that.) Anyway, it does seem to keep it slightly warm, possibly not quite enough as I only use one heater.
 
And considering that the garage has sprung yet another leak recently.....

Perhaps I should take up knitting!
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Vertical milling slide
07/02/2011 16:24:59
John,
 
Since no-one else has bothered replying, try Arc Euro Trade. They advertise one at £60. Probably plus all the usual addons.
 
You could also try the other importers to see if they sell the same or similar lathe, eg Warco, Chester, Amadeal, Axminster (£74.50) etc.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw

Edited By Peter G. Shaw on 07/02/2011 16:28:04

Thread: Tip build-up
07/02/2011 16:21:39
Hey Nick,
 
No apologies are needed. It's fascinating to see just where my OP has gone. Keep going, I'm enjoying reading, and hopefully learning at the same time.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
06/02/2011 21:47:21
mgj,
 
Well, it's not up to the standard I try to achieve. Or if I don't achieve, disguise by a bit of paint.
 
Seriously though, a) I was trying to produce Tubal Cains design, hence the rake as shown, and b) I've never had to consider negative rake before, and by the time I discovered the tip problem, it was really too late because the tube is now way too thin for what I originally intended doing.
 
But yes, I'm in full agreement with that saying, how does it go? The chap who never tries never achieves anything. There is one thing though: I appear to be blessed with an odd sort of memory in that none of this will be forgotten, and at some point in the future, I will do a similar thing, and this memory will arise and hey presto...
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Condensation in workshops
06/02/2011 21:34:30
Gordon,
 
Not so much make, as buy.
 
I have fitted, and reported via MEW, using a pair of self-regulating 10W heaters available from RS Components. Although these devices are rated at 10W, they actually are taking 18W each, or they were when I checked. Anyway, since then the lathe has never had that bone-chillingly cold feel in cold weather, and has not had any condensation whatsover. I also chuck an old table cloth folded double over it and at one time used to also use a sheet of plastic as well. I don't use the plastic now.
 
There are alternatives. Dave Fenner, the previous editor of MEW was going to try something else: I think it was the self-heating tape and then report back. I don't recall seeing it, but can't see why it shouldn't work. Someone else used a 10 or 15W incandescent bulb under his bed. In short, the idea is to keep the lathe just slightly above the lowest air temperature thus stopping condensation. It certainly works for me and my garage does have a nasty tendency to leak - usually when it rains heavily if it's going to do! And anyway, it's more or less permanently damp - rain gets under the front door, a rear wall often shows signs of damp especially when the wind and rain combine to blow from the SW.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Moving photos between albums
03/02/2011 20:13:10
Hi John,
 
Yes, I've got backups and I've got plenty of space - for now that is.
 
Thanks anyway.
 
Peter G. Shaw
 
ps In fact, I really should devote some time to weeding out the rubbish because I 've simply saved everything just as it came of the camera - including the oddities, the blurred, the over/under exposed etc etc etc. Trouble is, I've got too many other interests.
Thread: Tip build-up
03/02/2011 13:20:33
mgj,
Glad you liked the grinding (!). Now you understand why I didn't show it originally! (Is there an emoticon for 'shame'?)
 
Versaboss,
Thanks for doing the experiment and confirming what I got. I can't be certain, but I think my tube as well as being welded, was also zinc plated.
 
To all.
I've abandoned this idea and placed an order for some EN1A. So I'm now doing something else to while away the time. Seriously though, I've learned a heck of a lot from this so thanks to all.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
 
 
Thread: Moving photos between albums
03/02/2011 13:08:16
Thanks Martin,
 
Looks like I'll have to leave as is unless I can a) find the original thread they were posted on; and b) find the original photo out of the many thousands on my computer. In which case I could set up new albums, upload new photos, change the references, and then delete the old photos.
 
Hmm beginning to sound like too much work.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Keeping the Lathe bed clean
03/02/2011 13:05:04
I bought a Vax Powa4000 back around the late '80's/early '90's and that has been used for just about anything going, liquid or dry, fine or bulk. So far without any failures except for the hose. Mind you, it does have a bag, followed by a v.fine filter followed by another filter so any muck really does have to be fine to get into the motor.

Best vac I've ever bought.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Moving photos between albums
02/02/2011 15:55:30
Ok, how?
 
Right then, I've uploaded a number of photos into one album titled, er, Photos. ((Not) Original thinking here you see.) I can create additional albums, but how do I transfer from one album to another? The only way I can see is to re-upload and delete the old.
 
Or perhaps I should abandon the existing and start a new album next time.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Tip build-up
02/02/2011 14:05:42
Hi PekkaNF & Versaboss,
 
I did initially use a TCT tool, but not very good. I do suspect I wasn't cutting deep enough anyway, but I was conscious that I didn't have that much thickness to play with. Agree about using higher speeds, which I did try - I seem to think about 710 rpm.
 
178rpm is only as advised by Tubal Cain using HSS on tougher steels. If using TCT, he does recommend using 50% to 75% faster.
 
'Good' tool versus 'bad' tool are purely descriptive. The 'good' tool is one that was bought ready formed and whilst it has been re-ground, as far as I can tell, the angles are more or less as bought. The 'bad' tool is an attempt to make a tool as per Tubal Cain's sketch 'E' on page 5.5 of his Model Engineer's Handbook Third Edition. (Different page nos in earlier editions.) These photos show what I ended up with. It's a piece of HSS brazed onto a MS shank. Sorry about the slight fuzziness of the photos. As you will see, it's hardly a text book piece of grinding, and yes, a tool & cutter grinder is on the 'want' list. However, despite the ugliness of parts of it, I did hone the relevant parts that do the actual cutting and swarf removal.



Strangely, it does actually work, and there wasn't that much difference between the two tools, except that the good tool developed the tip build-up. Which perhaps suggests that more rake would have been better.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
 
 

Thread: Different Steels
01/02/2011 14:44:17
FWIW, Mr. Hall wrote an almost exact equivalent of the current issue's article in MEW5. Or should it be the other way round? Ne'er mind eh!
 
Anyway, the original used imperial and aluminium.
 
Not that I've anything against HH - I think he does some good stuff, but.....
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Thread: Tip build-up
01/02/2011 13:01:00
Hi folks,
 
Thanks for all the comments. Here are some replies.
 
Terryd.
I wasn't aware that other materials can cause tool build up like that but it isn't surprising, my lack of knowledge that is. However, this may explain why my homemade tool appeared to have tiny edges appearing where there shouldn't have been but I can't really say that they weren't there when I started although I do deliberately try to ensure that all corners are sharp and clean.
I do use DMT diamond hones. I have the full set of double sided diafolds, and for small items, the full set of minihones. This is how I have been sharpening the TCT tools and honing the HSS tools. I've no 1200 grit paper or crocus powder - never needed them before.
As you correctly guessed, the Neatcut is applied by brush onto the work, usually lots of it all round the circumference before I start turning.
 
Ramon.
The tube is welded.
I have had both chatter and ringing, cured by reducing speed to 250 rpm which according to Tubal Cain is about right for finish turning on BDMS or black steel of 35mm dia. From what I've now picked up, I suspect I may be better going down to 178rpm which T.C. seems suggest is better for harder/tougher steels.

Keith.
Of course I understood you were suggesting whatever you could think of. And I'm grateful for that. Interestingly, Tubal Cain somewhere has said that he always used black steel in preference to BMS because the black steel hadn't been stressed as much as the BMS in the manufacturing process. (My words, not necessarily technically correct, but should give the idea.) In addition, despite my reservations re cutting dry with HSS, I also note that T.C. cuts dry when 'levelling' his lathe(s). And that he recommends when milling to either cut dry, or to flood the work, his reasoning being that damp fluid simply creates a 'mush' which then gets under the cutter and hey presto, bad cutting, whereas the other two don't do that.
 
Gordon W.
I use scrap steel because I have it! Some of it doesn't seem too bad depending on it's ultimate purpose, but I've come to the conclusion that for my purposes, I am going to have to use freecutting stuff if I want any sort of precision. It does go against the grain having to buy new when I may have something which might do, but I've always got at the back of my mind a comment from somewhere along the lines of 'if it's a bit of good stuff from Jones the scrap, then you could be better off getting a piece of known specification.' Interestingly, my grandson used a bit of scrap and produced a perfectly turned section. Which just goes to show that not all scrap is bad. Experimentation is the name of the game.
 
General comments.
When I first started this thread, I was interested in the tool tip build-up which I had not come across before, except for aluminium. As I have said before, I do not have any engineering training, hence this is all learning by experimentation for me. And so Terryd's explanation was very helpful.
In respect of the present project, I had the tube doing nothing; I had seen BogStandards article elsewhere on making the squares from tube; so I thought 'why not', I've nothing to lose and everything to gain. And when I started, the thread on different steels hadn't started otherwise I might well have thought again. As it is, I've learnt quite a lot, and apart from a bit of time, I've not lost anything. So what I'm going to do is to order up a length of EN1A, or whatever it is and start again. In the meantime, I will experiment further to see if I can improve my tool sharpening, and try a lower speed.
 
So, many thanks to one and all.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw

ps to Ramon. By 'eck lad, I haven't heard 'claggy' for heck of a long time! But it's a good word to use in these circumstances and makes a lot of sense to me.
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