Member postings for Gordon W

From the photo it looks as if the crack is not full length. If so, drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it spreading. I would go with epoxy and plate.

Thanks for the quick replies! Wildings tool is the sort of thing I was thinking of, looks quite difficult to make tho'. The woodworking tool looks do-able, will think some more. Another idea- was looking at my clutch pencil, some have a lead sharpener at the end. This is just a long blade at an angle, this might be improved, more thinking.

Is there a tool just for de-burring the cut end ? I was thinking along the lines of a hand held tool in a handle and just give a twist on the screw end. I can't find anything on line, do they exist? Any ideas for making one ? I'm thinking a sort of reversed countersink but can't think how to make simply.

I am an ex pro. draffy, used board and autocad. I have an A3 board for home use and do not use the computer. I think better on the board, can fiddle about with it and throw away a sheet of paper if needed. I tend to just do layouts to get the feel and rough dimensions. Also can sit down in the living room and keep warm. Back when I was working for money all the rush jobs, eg a sketch for a night-shift welder, was given to me because it was quicker than cad. As for keeping records I trust paper more than electronics.

These are just songs, not technical works. I always assumed the words are bent to fit to fit the tune/ scansion.

Muzzer- I'm lost also. Reverse into the parking space, pull-out forwards into traffic, what's the problem ? If someone parks behind me and a trolley has to be unloaded I just move forwards a couple of feet, or in dire need pull out and repark. Only had to do that once. PS I don't have a 3 ton truck, just a little motor so can usually just lean on it to move.

It will be much cheaper to build your own and not difficult. Get down to a farm supply yard and price up the timber, get properly treated timber ,will last years.

I've had a couple of automatics, old borg warner things and a belt vari', didn't like either. The modern ones work well until something goes wrong, what's wrong ? Can be a very expensive experience and finding just a dud sensor.

Parking, always back in when possible, it's just daft to reverse into traffic if you don't have to.

I think the brake adjuster used to called "a squirrel". Might well be wrong.

I've never thought about it before. Just had to go into the, still cold, w/shop to check, it's set about 45 deg. so clears tailstock etc. Only changed for small taper turning. Am making a solid block to replace the topslide, just so much to do.

Better still with a good engine-- Vincent twin.

It really depends on what you want to do with the engine. Mild steel is cheap and easy, it rusts of course but can be kept clean if only used for demonstration. Stainless is harder to work and does not conduct heat well, would not fancy boring it out. but in some designs s/s may be better but with a bottom made from a better conductor, like cooking pots. I'm making a 1/3 scale Robertson engine and using mild steel tube, but this can easily be dismantled for cleaning. Not much help I'm afraid.

I use the black graphite stove polish. Does well as a lubricant, also use it for exhaust bolts and spark plug threads.

As said, buy new double glazed panels. Most will be standard sizes, if not ask round some local firms and get prices. The most I paid for about a metre square was £40 2 years ago. When you measure up allow about 6mm less ie. 3mm all round and state " glass size ". Get some good clear silicon mastic and away you go.

Should be able to run a 12v motor from battery, hobby use you won't be running long periods. I have a couple of 1/2 hp batteries from a scooter and they run about an hour of an old car battery. Sunny Oban, you might be better with a small wind genny?

I've just come indoors after walking dog etc. It felt nice and mild, checked the thermometer and it's the dizzy level of + 0.1 cen. Just brings home what it has been like.

I made a couple for lathe feedscrew modification. Drilled thru' handle to suit cap head bolt, c/bored for the head, screw into the arm with a drop of thread lock. Just tighten enough, a bit crude maybe but works well.

I've just seen an ad. for an app(?) that controls the car radio. This could be useful if you have short arms.

I have a DB8, about 12 yrs old now. No real problems, did a few fettling and uprates at no cost. Does what I need and seems accurate. Got over the slow speed problem by fitting a large pulley on top of the largest standard pulley and a longer belt, easily fitted and removed.

Thaiguzzi-- you are correct, probably. I only repeated what I was told at the time, about 1959. Us lads didn't argue with a jig-borer . Still would like to have it tho.