Member postings for Ian S C

I wasn't that worried for myself, but others could have a problem. good to see it sorted, I thought it could be just a few that were miss printed.

Ian S C

The tool holders are easy enough to make, although the one in the photo was fairly heavy going as is is a bit of a car half shaft/rear axle, the bridge piece is just a bit of steel from the junk box, the erosion on it was from some heavy work on some 316 stainless(I was warned there would be miles of sharp swarfe). The bolt is 10 32 unf 5/8" .

Ian S C

Interesting drawing fig 39 page 707, all the dimensions, and dimension lines are there, and all the wording, but no drawing, most odd.  Vol 222, No 4612.

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 09/06/2019 02:42:16

You could forget the hole and use holder with a bridge clamp, as I have done on my home made tool. The tip is 16 mm with no chip breaker, it's the type I use on the 50 mm face mill.

Ian S C

There has been a bit on the media over the last day or so asking why can you buy a printer with ink for about half the price of new ink cartridges. I got a number of rods etc., from old flat bed scanners, from the days before they were combinded with the printer.

Ian S C

I remember a fire in a wharf shed on the Otago harbour back in the 1950s, the shed was packed with gas cylinders, many of them acetylene. We lived on the other side of the harbour, and had a good view, and as it was dark you couldsee the exploding gas bottles shooting up and then landing in the water, then came the BOOM, and the windows rattled, we must have been 2 or 3 miles away (pre decimal times), the number 70 comes to mind about the number of acetylene cylinders that exploded.

Best fireworks display ever is what us kids thought.

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 06/06/2019 12:25:20

In winter time(now) my 1326BH lathe is slow at starting in high gear, and remains slow (bit of belt slip), so I drop the belt ratio down and run it for 10/20 minutes until the headstock bearings warm up. I use SAE 30 oil, I maybe should go to a lighter grade in the winter. I doubt if that's your problem Windy, most likely the capacitor.

As an aside, my milling machine has got a capacitor out, and until I can find a new one (300uf), I'm hand starting it which is a bit of a pain. I'll probably need to put three 100 uf caps together.

Ian S C

It's easier to use straight lengths, and bend them, rather than trying to get the coiled tube straight, curves where it should be straight look awful, you would find out about pipe work if you modeled an NZR locomotive, all the pipe work exposed all over the boiler.

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 05/06/2019 13:27:53

I remember one day in school general science class one of the girl s was most upset, her gold signet ring had turned silver, she had had a small amount of mercury rolling around on the palm of her hand. I also rem,ember about a similar time when I would open the little mercury button cells after they went flat, and squeeze out the mercury, I had a little jar with about 1/2 an inch of mercury from a number of sources, don't know where that went.

When I was nursing, it was infrequent, but on occasions someone would drop a rack of clinical thermometers (usually 30), back in the 1970s it was just a case of sweeping up as much as possible and putting it in the dangerous goods rubbish (all those little bits of glass).

Ian S C

Although cheap compared to other lathes in it's day, it was still very expensive for the average worker, that's why a number of little lathes such as the Super Adept came out in the between wars period.

Ian S C

Dec, are you using silver solder, or tin lead?

The tool in the photo looks as though it has been over heated while cutting, it seems to have a crater in the top behind the radiused cutting edge.

My usual GP tool is a 1/4" HSS one of similar shape. To put the radius on the nose I just touch the tip on the grinder to take the feather edge off, then with a little oil stone (about 3" long), form a small radius, same from top to bottom. Heavy grinding on the front of the wheel on the grinder, finished with a light touch on the side of the wheel, the polished with the oil stone. Only use the angle grinder on larger tools, and then only if I have to remove a lot of metal.

Ian S C

Just watch out for modern cheap dies, they tend to be nothing other than a round die nut, and as Roy garden, and I found the cutting edge was not formed, I cured mine with the Dremel, first split the die with a thin cutting grinding disc, then a cylindrical stone through the relief holes to touch up the cutting edge. The set of 5 dies and a holder cost $NZ 10, so nothing to loose. The sizes go from 12 mm, 10 mm, 8 mm, 7 mm, 6 mm. I don't think I have ever come across 7 mm threads?

Ian S C

The round bed is much cheaper to make than the more complex patterns required for a conventional lathe bed, most of the work on the bed could be done on a lathe.

Ian S C

You could build up another 3D printer.

Ian S C

Big, small, tool makers reamer is the way I usually go, usually with the same steel as the shaft that will fit the hole. For a one off hole(maybe two or three) in brass or aluminium I sometimes get away unhardened.

Ian S C

If it is low temp/tin lead solder, a bit of wood should be OK for a joint like that, with both parts tinned, a reasonable sized soldering iron, a matter of a few seconds heating, and a wee bit more solder, job done. For some reason if I was using silver solder, and a gas torch I would be keeping away from the lathe or drill press and set up some form of jig(Don't know why, it's just me).

Ian S C

Oil seals, these have a similar spring 'belt', either get one or two from old seals, or get one the right size from a bearing supplier, they can be joined to make longer belts.

On the ST S9 I rebuilt I used a small square section rubber belt from a tape recorder(video/ audio can't remember), round belt just as good, just don't try a rubber band.

Ian S C

Yesterday I needed a 8 x 1.25 mm die, I spotted a set of metric dies and holder at the local Challenge Garage, it was only $NZ10, so I bought it, commenting that it looked pretty rubbish. Got it home, found as I thought,the dies were unsplit, and what ever taper I put on the shaft it just would not cut. I took the Dremel with a fine cutting disc, and split the die, still no cut, had a look at the thread in the die, it was hooked over, same as a ***cheap die in another thread the other day. Got the Dremel out again with a cylindrical stone and ground the cutting edge, then back to the job, "it works". One other problem with the die is that there is only about 1 1/2 threads tapered on the lead in, and only just at that. By the instructions on the pack these dies are only ment for cleaning up damaged threads on bolts, not eor actual thread cutting. *** IT was Roy Garden, in what did you do today, on 28/05/19***

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 01/06/2019 14:43:49

There is a bloke on another thread wanting a platform that he wanted to raise with ball screws, he should take a look at the lift in Nilock's link, replace the hydraulics with a piece of threaded rod and a crank handle.

Ian S C