Member postings for bricky

Hi Dennis

Thank for that it is just what I need.I am now going to the workshop to set up my conversion set and get started.

Frank

Thanks for replying Gary.

It is the depth of thread I am needing, as to disturb the set up and not be sure of engagement is what I am trying to avoid.I can't find a reference to the spindle nose dimensions and thanks again for trying to help.

Frank

I am making a chuck backplate for my S7 plus.I have mounted a large billet onto the faceplate and turned the chuck register.I am boring to size for the register and the thread which I will cut at this setting.Normally I take off the chuck and workpiece and try the thread onto the spindle nose,but I can't turn the faceplate around as it will not clear the bed.I have one shot at this and I don't want to start again.I need to know the dimensions over the thread and the depth of the thread .

Frank

When I aquired my Myford Super 7 Plus there were problems with vibration .The belt looked worn so I replaced it with a T link belt of good quality.The belt was an A size but road to high in the pully and I got slip.I replaced it with a Z size and this sat down better but still gave some slip.When I had it serviced by the Lads from Myford they replaced it with the proper belt and I have had no more trouble.My question is the belts that are sold as A size are to big so is there a different size for link belts and the grip of the composite belts does not seem as good as the continuous belts.I have in the past used a Brammer leather belt and they were better than the T link belting.
Frank

Robbo,thank you for the trouble that you have taken to find this information ,I will clear the area around the lathe as I am sure to drop something as I dismantle the clutch and see if I can repair it.The diagrams are very helpful. I have a spair pully that houses the clutch that came with the lathe 30 years ago Brian ,and when I have got it dismantled I will use it.Thanks again for your responses.

Frank

Hello all

I own two Myfords a Mk1 S7 and a large bore S7 plus. Whilst making a fittment for the large bore I had to use the 60 year old lathe.I haven't used it for a long time and the clutch started to slip.Has anybody taken the Mk1 clutch to pieces and can it be repaired and if so how and what are the pitfalls during dismantling.I hope someone can help because the bed was reground 10 years ago and is very accurate lathe still .

Frank

Started to make an E32 collet chuck for my large bore Myford.I used an 80mm bar and have bored through at the collets smallest dimension and have bored to thread size for the spindle nose .First thing in the morning I will bore out the register dimension and set up the metric gears to cut the spindle thread..

Frank

Picked up my exhibits from the Spalding model engineering and hobby show and enjoyed the rest of the exhibition.This is it's fourth year and goes from strength to strength.A terrific effort by the Webster family and many thanks for arranging a much needed show in the east midlands.

Frank

I am getting the engine cleaned up for the `Spalding model engineering show,so in the meantime I will make a NRV and I will first try the plastic tank Jason .I do have a spring on the fuel valve.

Frank

Ian is the foot valve a non return valve.

Frank

Michael,thanks for that I am going to try at these settings.

Frank

I have a Super 7 and I don't know if the ML7 has a spindle lock.

Frank

I remove my chucks by fiitting a piece of occtagonal bar in the jaws and use a spanner after locking the headstock.This has also worked on a jammed chuck.

\Frank

Martin ,the tank dose have a breather hole in the filler cap.

Frank

The engine is mounted on the fuel tank.Am I right in setting the inlet to start opening at 15 degrees before TDC or should it be fully open at this setting and is 4 degrees the setting for the sensor.I didn't get a good seal on the rings that I bought with the kit.I had a leak at the base of the valve cage.I made new rings which give me a good seal and I have sealed the valve cage base.The engine has fired emmiting smoke from the exhaust and it did run for 2 seconds therefore I think the valve is opening.I do appreciate all the advice and will try any ideas that will help.

Frank

The ignition system is the Minimag low powerr capacitor ignition 3volts MCL-1 1006

Andrew ,do you mean you set the sensor to fire at TDC or the inlet to open at TDC.

Frank

The ignition system is the Minimag low powerr capacitor ignition 3volts MCL-1 1006

Andrew ,do you mean you set the sensor to fire at TDC or the inlet to open at TDC.

Frank

Good morning Jason.

I am using the standard carb that comes with the kit,and am using a hall sensor with the magnet set in a plastic disc on the crankshaft.

Frank

I have been having problems getting my engine to run.I am running it on petrol.I have made and renewed the piston rings and have got a bounce back on compression.I have the hall sensor set at 4 degrees before TDC and the inlet just starting to open at 15 degrees before TDC.It has fired on several occasions and has run for about 2 seconds, but after nothing.,the throttle is half open and the fuel is a quarter turn of the valve .I am doing something wrong but I don't know what.I have had a lot of help from forums in building this engine and I hope someone has the answer.

Frank

A good set up John,but I don't have an industrial bandsaw capable of holding my chucks only a hobby saw.

Frank