Member postings for bricky

Thanks for your reply EGA,I have already fitted a Nylock nut and now its on don't want to disturb it .That would have been a neat solution to my problem and I will use that type of lock nut if I have any further problems.Thanks again EGA.

Frank

Hi ega,Could you tell me what GHT stands for and where I can find the design.

Frank

Thanks for your reply David.Photographs are not easy for me to add to a post,as putting them into my album from I photo sometimes dosn't work.Anyway the rotary table has been a set of castings part machined with no makers name.It was in two halves and had been well machined,I made and fitted the gear and worm drive and the bolt which is what holds the two sections together.this worked well for several years but has just worked loose.The bolt was free to rotate in the bores top and bottom.I did drill and tap the bolt and nut and fitted a scew to hold them together.I now want to fit either a Nylock nut or a nut with loctite thread locker . Sorry to have been so vague initialy.

My rotary table started to judder when cutting out the recess in a flywheel.The bolt secureing the table to the base had loosend.I want advice regarding the use of a nyloc nut or the use of locktite thread locker please.and would it be advisable to fix the bolt to one end or the other instead of both ends rotating.

Frank

Hi Pete

I have a Mk1 1957 vintage,if removing the the clutch the screw in the pulley is covering the adjusting screw for the clutch and when removed can be dropped as it is small. it takes a while to find,I know.I had my lathe reground at Myford and the cross slide.The needle roller bearings are noisy but that is my only gripe, as it is very accurate.All the best with your renovation.

Frank

I like a challenge and want to make steps on the arbour for saws as well as gear cutters.I think that a one piece unit will have more rigidity.

Frank

Thanks for your confirming my effort ,I can proceed with confidence.

Frank

No wonder I can't get my head around trig,The sine bar is 5".

Frank

I am going to make an R8 gear cutting arbour and have been trying to work out the packing for a sine bar to set the taper turning attachment.The included angle for the taper is 16.51deg and I have calculated the vertical at 18.23 with trig,.I am not confident that I am correct,could some kind soul give verify this answer please.I havn't done trig since 1964 so remembering is a struggle.

Frank

I ordered the metals for Brian Rupnows latest engine design from M-Machine metals and the bearings from bearing boys.The plans were bought from Brian for $25 and were sent to my computer as files his plans are well detailed and descriptive .I built his Rockerblock engine which runs a treat and thought I would have a go at this one.The cost of the metal for a small engine is suprising as I spent 200 pounds including the bearings and I had the brass ,bronze mild steel and silver steel in stock.The cost of building bigger is for me getting prohibitive since retirement .40 years ago I was able to buy brass from a firms scrap box to build clocks for a few quid,how times have changed.

Frank

Larry, I think the bracket may be flexing and that a block would give a more consistant result.

Frank

Thank you Niel and Jason for a great forum and the help you provide .

Frank

Me too. Clark's, left on a day out with the sole flapping .also had a pair with rubber insets disintergrate also leaving a trail of plastic or rubber.

Frank

compleated 5"*3"*2" block of cast steel on my horizontal small stub miller using a fly cutter with HSsteel tool.It cut the 3" side in one go with shallow cuts and slow feeds and several passes.Milled all round and I was more than a bit pleased at the results as the length was only 1to 2 th out.the ends were spot on and it is square all round.You might think why am I so pleased at this.I bought this miller that had been cleverly converted to a vertical mill by sawing off the bearing housings and planing level and building up with steel blocks bolted to the reduced housings and forming the vertical head on top.I dismantled this down to the reduced housings and formed them as near as possible to the originals as was possible.I have the original cut offs.To be able to fit these new housings I had to make them elongated to allow a fixing below the new ballraced spindle into the holes tapped for the previously alteration through the new oil hole.I made four pulleys with mullty v so they looked like the original flat belt.I used a laser to line up the spindle positions on the blank housings,bored the holes and fitted the new 2morse spindle I made.So you can see this could have been a right cock up.It turned out well.

Frank

I have a floor standing tredle drill by Sheane Brothers of Wicklow.It is pictured along side of their lathe,it has two speeds and not one as listed.The belt is round leather and to use the same belt for both speeds one lifts the column allowing the belt to move from small to large pulley.Possibly a 100 years old.

Frank

Bill I did the same thing and I suspect that you have damaged your half nuts, and that they will need replacing.I was lucky in that a gentleman on this site sold me some new spare nuts that he had.I had had a problem with banding on my work and when I had it serviced they couldn't give me an explanation as to why this was happening.When I replaced the half nuts the banding dissapeared ,so turners that are haveing this problem might have half nuts that want cleaning or replaceing.

Frank

Geoff,The headstock on the early S7,s has a oil resevoir with a circular sight glass on the front of the spindle if so you have a lathe between 52 and 59 I think and it will have the old clutch.There is a diagram for the clutch on a previous post and as Maurice has said be aware of the double screw .

Frank

Brian the mill is featured on the Tony Griffiths lathe site.Look not in the mill section but the lathe section under T&LM Thanks for the interest and stay well.

Frank

I have been renovating my small horizontal it's aT&LM and is featured on Tony Griffiths Lathe site It is in the lathe section under T&LM If you want to view it.When it was bought it from a car boot sale it had no spindle so the chap I bought it off converted it to a verticle mill and I bought it for 200 pounds.When I finished my engine I bought another mill and I decided to convert it back to a horizontal mill.I have been finishing off the last bits today.As they cut off the bearing housing I had to make new ones but to be able to attach them I had to make them oval inastead of circular.I made poly v pullys to lolook like flat belt pullys New geat to drive the lever feed ,new lever and new nut,also a new spindle.Also a counter shaft.I am pleased to say it is finished and Tony thinks it might be the only one made between 1914-20.

Frank

Thanks to all who have responded,I can get on with the job now.All of you stay well in these trying times.

Frank