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Member postings for KWIL

Here is a list of all the postings KWIL has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 Next > Last >>
Thread: 1040 Steel
16/04/2010 09:58:05
A 1mm cut x 16mm dia is not a bad performance by any standard, just need more of them. How deep are you going?
Thread: 2 questions - threading silver steel; tightening bar in the chuck
15/04/2010 14:31:18
All I can say is beware of QC toolholder that are said to be compatible with Myford etc, check before you buy is all I can say here.
15/04/2010 09:24:28
Silver steel screw cuts a treat, set the tool height correctly and use a little cutting fluid, but I agree, what is wrong with bright bar?
Thread: Boiler materials
14/04/2010 16:12:22
The big plates carry the axle pedestals (horns) and the smaller plates are there to provide for screws which hold the various components, footplate supports, valve gear stantions, drawbar bracket etc. The pedestals are rivet located and are all hard soldered (silver)
14/04/2010 09:50:04
Jason/Jon
 
Yes have the boiler completed, as locomotion does not have frames, you start with the boiler and hang everything on! I will bring it along in June, Jason. If I can sort out how to paste the photos here I will.
 

Thread: Very early locomotive boiler feeds
09/04/2010 19:21:08
Jonathan,
 
See PM
 
KWIL
Thread: Blowers / lighting the fire.
09/04/2010 08:45:08
Do you really mean to say a 570 bar-litre boiler only holds 5L of water??
Thread: Brazing Pickle
07/04/2010 09:39:04
Drain cleaner from the hardware shop is a acid based cleaner, suitably "watered down", makes a good cleaner for copper at room temperature, check frequently, wear rubber gloves with gauntlets and old clothes. Wash off copper goods with copious water to removes all traces. As it is a drain cleaner, it also cleans drains!
Thread: collets
04/04/2010 10:03:20
ME 2194 [Vol 88] had a pipe expander explained and ME 3810 [Vol 159] had an expander for forming a ridge on boiler tubes.
Thread: ME thread cutting
03/04/2010 11:19:31
Buy from Tracy Tools, if on the odd occasion you have a problem they will replace it. I have dealt with them for many many years and can remember two instances.  As for breakages, the user is usually responsible!
Thread: Newest EU legislation
02/04/2010 11:04:40
What do you mean about the home grown lot?  They are only doing what they are told by Brussels rather than what we want them to do. We need less of them[say around 50%] and electronic voting in the "house" to speed up voting, at present takes them 30 mins to vote twice!! Only pay them when they are in the house sitting doing what we send them there to do.
Thread: Keeping it Clean
30/03/2010 08:52:41
Another reason for using Neat cutting oils as opposed to suds?
29/03/2010 08:54:00
If you are turning oak etc you do get dust, try turning a bowl on a woodturning lathe if you have not experienced it. The final "sand papering" also produces enormous amounts of dust. definately a face mask job. Tools do not rust as they are normally cleaned off after use and do not stay in contact in "moist" conditions for a long period.
Thread: Anodising
29/03/2010 08:47:14
John, Thanks for the "corrections" I was merely repeating what I had been told by the Principal of my local anodising company, he is the specialist as far as I am concerned. Looked at the Taig site, yes their anodizing is "alloy coloured" not coloured alloy.
 
Dye coloured anodising needs to be set/sealed by using steam.
 
Do not agree Caustic Soda is "nasty", nasty is something you cannot see like radiation.
 
Caustic soda, strong acids and indeed electricity could all be called nasty, but deal with them in the correct and safe manner, taking the proper precautions and they are safe to use. They are a good servant but a poor master.
 
You can of course buy caustic soda crystals/powder in a plastic tub from the local hardware shop so  it is obviously not deemed nasty in today's nanny society

Edited By KWIL on 29/03/2010 08:48:11

Thread: Keeping it Clean
28/03/2010 10:07:28
I always thought it was best to clean shotguns after use anyway. The effect must be from the heat of the explosion, since unused cartridges are not left in the breach and the ejector deals with the spent ones!
Thread: Anodising
28/03/2010 10:02:35
I have only home cleaned prior to anodising using a quick dip in caustic soda solution.  Does not seem to matter when the cleaning is done, the anodising [commercial] seems to come out OK.
 
Just be aware that with hard anodise (black), material has to be pure aluminium, not alloy. Also different alloys colour to give different shades of the intended "colour". Hard anodising "grows" the item, the dimensions do change, slightly.
Thread: "Precision" or "does NOT do what it says on the tin"
28/03/2010 09:53:34
Strange to relate Vertex is far eastern as well!!  As for the part circle company, they will refund you graciously, try them.
Thread: Boring for a Beginner
27/03/2010 16:27:55
Thats a good idea if they want us to.  Incidently I was taught in the real world on a Smart & Brown with an american pattern tool holder, you soon learn how to shim tools and height set that way,

Edited By KWIL on 27/03/2010 16:28:14

Thread: PTFE gaskets
27/03/2010 10:48:50
David, www.directplasticsonline.co.uk have all the types of plastic you could wish including PTFE and PEEK

Edited By KWIL on 27/03/2010 10:49:03

Edited By KWIL on 27/03/2010 10:49:29

Thread: Keeping it Clean
27/03/2010 10:44:02
Oak contains tannin if I recall, as does walnut and mahogany, thats the problem, much better to use a block of plastic [recycled fencing style?] to hold your tools if you must.
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