Here is a list of all the postings Gray62 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Getting the Handle Off a Vertex RT |
24/10/2011 19:34:52 |
I found that the key on mine was a lttle high and was causing the handle to bind.
I used a 3 leg puller to remove the handle initially and then 'fetled' things to get a good sliding fit with no play. Don't resort to the 'bit of welly' method as ou risk distorting the shaft or damaging the handwheel.
A simple puller could be made from a piece of flat bar with a bolt through the middle and then clamped to the handwheel.
regards
Graeme
|
Thread: Mystery Item |
24/10/2011 12:56:17 |
Hi Chris and Roger, Yep, I think you've solved the mystery, I really couldn't see how it could be partof the Quorn. Off to the workshop now to make the boring bar to go with it ![]() cheers all Graeme |
Thread: Distortion off BMS |
24/10/2011 11:20:30 |
Blimey Nick, you've just taken me back to my apprentice days in the steelworks when we were given extensive lectures on metalurgy, most of which has long been commited to the far reaches of my memory due to a subsequent career in electronic and computer engineering following the demise of the British Steel Industry.
Thank you for the comprehensive and informative info in your postings.
Time o get the text books out of the loft once again
![]() Graeme
|
Thread: Mystery Item |
24/10/2011 11:05:23 |
I bought a box of part finished Quorn Mk2 castings etc and found this item in the box.
I can't find any details of this in the Quorn book or any online resource.
It appears to have been made from a casting, either Bronze or GunMetal.
Can anyone elighten me as to its use, it may not even be associated with the Quorn.
thanks
Graeme
|
Thread: Top Slide Self Act? |
22/10/2011 12:24:34 |
There is an article in MEW 105 describing a top slide power feed which may help you with your conversion.
regards
Graeme
|
Thread: Need to find 16 DP gears |
21/10/2011 17:03:07 |
Take a look at HPC Gears they produce good quality gears at reasonable prices and can do 16DP.
regards
Graeme
|
Thread: Preventing Rusting in Garage |
17/10/2011 22:59:37 |
Hi,
Some of my machines are housed in a single skin brick garage, over the years I have found that insulating the roof space has made a significant improvement. I used 11mm osb screwed to the existing rafters and then laid 100mm loft insulation in the voids.
I also cover all of my machines with cotton covers (mostly old duvet covers or large beadsheets that the wife deems no longer required).
Having any form of covering over a machine (which allows it to breathe) will reduce the onset of rusting by forming an insulating barrier which slows down the temperature change. Sudden temp changes cause condensation to form on the metal surfaces which in turn encourages oxidisation, i.e rusting.
So, any form of insulation will reduce the process of condensation.
In the winter months my workshop often drops below freezing and is invariably below dew point, but, by covering the machines I have almost eliminated corrosion on the exposed surfaces.
As an added precaution,I also spray all unpainted surfaces with a protective oil solution.
|
Thread: Old Boat Guy Beam |
17/10/2011 18:36:25 |
Hi everyone,
I'm quite interested in building this engine, I have the plans but where Can I get the 'missing' pages.
thanks
Graeme
|
Thread: New member introductions |
17/10/2011 18:34:41 |
Nope, there isn't one, but then again, this isn't a normal forum! I'm not entirely sure what software is being used to provide the forum but it doesn't seem to follow the normal format for this type of environment.
But then again, many of the 'features' of this site are unusual, the digital magazines are another area which many of us have a 'bone of contention' over.
I'm sure, over time these things will be resolved although they should never exist in the first place
![]() |
Thread: machining conn./coupling rod ends. |
13/10/2011 17:49:45 |
Clive, can you clarify what you mean by 'Up Cut' I never use my lathe for milling parts so my understanding of milling cutting is either that of climb milling or conventional milling, how do these techniques relate to 'up cutting' on a lathe ? |
Thread: Einhell Press Drill model SB501 being reliable?? |
13/10/2011 17:44:52 |
Hi Steve,
Not quite sure what you are asking here.
Maybe your command of English is impeding your direct questions.
From what I can make out, you are asking questions about product quality that cannot be answered until the final product is delivered.
Are you proposing to become a distributor of Einhell products?
If so, you should be asking these questions of your suppliers, and not posing these questions on a End User Forum!
I may have got the wrong end of the stick here, please elucidate.
kind regards
CB
|
Thread: Sir William |
01/10/2011 22:05:23 |
If you are using a Clarkson type collet chuck, then NO, you cannot use a spacer. The collets in these chucks do not grip the cutter tighlty, their function is to provide accurate alignment. The cutter must be in firm contact with the taper at the rear of the chuck in order to lock the cutter in place.
Drill chucks are not designed for the forces placed on them by the action of milling, in addition, milling cutters are invariably hardened throughout, therefore a dril chuck will not be able to grip them adequately to prevent rotation/displacement of the cutter, in addition, you are likely to damage the chuck jaws.
Long series endmills and slotmills are available, try Tracey tools they have sets advertised on their website and will probably be able to supply individual cutters as well
regards
Graeme
|
Thread: handwheel dials |
01/10/2011 14:15:53 |
Nobby,
the full article has recently been republished in Home Shop Machinist September/October issue, If you request a trial issue you get the current magazine (mine arrived on Thursday
![]() ![]() |
Thread: Tig Welder |
30/09/2011 14:40:52 |
I have a mig welder from R Tech Welding and it has served me well so far, I tried one of their AC/DC tigs to do some aluminium welding and was very impressed with the performance. Edited By CoalBurner on 30/09/2011 14:41:20 |
Thread: oil |
30/09/2011 10:00:21 |
The modern vehicle engine oils contain detergents and dispersants. The detergents are designed to reduce or remove carbon contamination, whilst the dispersents are intended to keep debris in suspension thus allowing the oil filtration system to clean the suspended matter from the oil as it passes through.
In most engineering equipment, the oil is in a sump and parts are splash lubricated, or the oil is in an oiler which drip feeds the bearings (as is the case on my Studer Cylindrical grinder and older Myfords).
In either case, you want the debris to settle out of solution, so a dispersant is not desirable, and there is no requirement for detergents (which I understand, can be detrimental to phosphor bronze bearings).
So, in short, vehicle engine oil is not recommended for engineering machine gearboxes, spindle lube etc. Buy the correct oil for your machine, most will be happy with a light hydraulic oil such as Shell Tellus T68 or similar.
|
Thread: DRO on a Mill/Drill? |
23/09/2011 16:59:18 |
Hi Paul, If budget is a consideration, I would stay with the existing machine. there is nothing wrong with round column mills. Have a look at MEW Issue 108, this gives details of an add on to a round column mill which aids in registration. I implemented this on my Warco ZX15 and it was extremely sucessful. As far as fitting a DRO, I would highly recommend that upgrade. The RF30 type of machine is a very capable mill, with the addition of a DRO and the column registration mod, it will no doubt surpass your expectations and be a much cheaper option than selling and upgrading ![]() regards Graeme |
Thread: Is this a good tilting vice? |
22/09/2011 16:21:16 |
I have a very similar tilting vice to that one, and to be honest, it lacks the rigidity needed for anything but light milling. I reserve this for the odd job on the drill press that needs a tilting vice. I would look at a Soba or Vertex for a tilting mill vice. An alternative, depending on the headroom you have on the mill, would be a tilting angle plate that you ould then bolt your existing vice to. I use this setup for the odd occasion when a compound angle needs to be machined. |
Thread: ME issue 4270 |
19/09/2011 15:46:55 |
I don't believe anyone who is a member of this forum would consider selling the digital issues should the be available as a pdf download. Let's face it, if someone were determined (and patient) enough, the current system still allows issues to be printed page by page, so if they wanted, the issue could still be downloaded and sold on ebay etc. As the access to the digital issues is restricted to paying customers, I do not believe that there is a reasonable argument against providing a downloadable copy of the digital issue. DC1, I know you take a lot of flak for this and it is not specifically your problem however, as some of us have found, contacting MyHobbyStore representatives by email is fruitless therefore, you are our only POC to MHS. Can you please give them an almighty kick up the but from all ME and MEW subscribers, to sort out their act and give us what we want (and should have as a paying customer). regards Graeme |
18/09/2011 14:12:09 |
Gets my vote for sure, sick of asking for someone who seems not to exist to allow us to print the magazine from the viewer. PDF's all round please ![]() |
18/09/2011 13:43:53 |
When opening ME 4270, I am getting the following error (using Firefox) You need to upgrade your Flash Player Viewing this eBook requires Adobe Flash Player version 8 or above. Click below to download the latest version: All other issues open without problem and I have the lastest Flash player installed. Does anyone else see the same problem |
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.