Member postings for Bizibilder

Could it be the top of some kind of test tube shaker? It does look a bit too "heavy" for that but who knows? The idea of the shaker is that you put the base of the test tube in the "sucker" and an eccentric causes the whole metal lump to vibrate thus stirring the contents of the tube.

Not got one but it appears to be very much built down to a price. ie lacking steadies etc (are they even available?) also no half nuts on the lesdscrew as far as i can tell so lots of "knob twiddling" to move the saddle. Both top and cross slides seem inadequately small. Only No 1 Morse head and tailstock bores. The spindle is bored through 11mm (less than half an inch).

Sorry to sound so negative but for a few more pounds you can get a much better and more user-friendly machine with all the bits you need. Is space really the issue? The shorter "between centers" mini lathes are only about 100mm longer than the WM 150.

Just received a Press Parts oiler - filled it with H32 oil and.................oil in all the right places and no leaks. Brilliant bit of kit - Thank you!

You could rig up a piece of plywood (or similar) with a "V" cut in it as a steady and position it to stop the long end whipping about while you work.

Edited By Bizibilder on 06/08/2017 21:14:29

Thanks George - I've seen that one - another "oil" recommendation!

Which oil is recommended for blueing steel screws for clocks? In many clock build books and descriptions after polishing the screw and heating to blue dropping the screw into "oil" is the only description given.

I have seen cooking oil, hydraulic oil, engine oil etc mentioned in various places but no definitive answer. Does anyone have a preference or indeed the "best" option please?

Edited By Bizibilder on 23/07/2017 20:20:38

Have you tried Myford themselves?

My C1 lathe belt pulley will accept a Qualcast T 47169 belt (once it is cut down to 10mm wide!) and that is an "XL" size belt. If you google that code you should find similar belts listed. I ended up buying from fleabay/Hong Kong as 83 teeth is a non-standard size in the UK but 84 teeth are available.

In my case the Qualcast belt was a "short" and I have yet to modify the motor mount by extending the motor mounting slots so that it will fit.

The manual for the multi-mini is here: https://chestermachinetools.forumchitchat.com/post/manual-for-the-mini-multi-7111323

If the manual is correct the belt may be the same as the C1 lathe supplied by Arc Euro - http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C1-Lathe-Spares/C1-131-Timing-Belt although as far as I can tell this is an "XL" size belt of 5mm pitch.

Edited By Bizibilder on 02/06/2017 15:51:47

Edited By Bizibilder on 02/06/2017 15:52:09

It uses 4" files (with the tang cut off) - I can get these from Arc Euro in most shapes that I need. I'm using 2nd cut files that do seem to work - if a little slowly for roughing out. However if you cut out close to the line in the first place they are quick enough. The one shown in the machine is a 4" square file with its missing tang uppermost - ie it cuts on the downstroke. (It may not look it in the photos but the file is dead square to the table!)

Edited By Bizibilder on 14/05/2017 14:52:27

Edited By Bizibilder on 14/05/2017 14:52:52

I've just about finished making a "Harold Hall" filing machine. The drawings and article in MEW were followed pretty much to the letter. I have however motorised the device using a motor from a cheap drilling machine that has been lying around for a while. My first attempt at this used a 1" small pulley and 2.5" large pulley with a J section poly v belt (4 ribs) - this proved to be a bit "fast" and, whilst it did work there was quite a bit of vibration. I have now modded it to have a 3" large pulley and the whole thing is more sedate and controllable - it certainly shifts brass at quite a rate!

Lock the headstock (maybe by engaging the backgear if the ML7 doesn't have a locking bolt). Put a piece of timber (hardwood for preference) in the chuck crossways. Use a piece a bit over 1" square and a couple of feet long, holding it near the end. Apply pressure to the timber to undo the chuck. If this doesn't work try hitting the timber with your hand. if still no joy then clout the timber with a hefty hammer!

The Pallet nibs are deliberately drawn and cut out very slightly oversize (as stated in the book). The pallet will not work to start with but as you refine the pallet action it is necessary to file away a tiny bit on each pallet nib in order to get them to work. You do this without changing the depthing.

**LINK**

For up to 10mm square. (usual disclaimer).  I think they have advertised in ME from time to time?

Edited By Bizibilder on 02/02/2017 21:28:46

College engineering stock some square but unfortunately not as small as 1/16 http://www.collegeengineering.co.uk/product/imperial-13-long/ Might be worth a phone call to see if they know a supplier.

Super 7's were fitted with 3/4 HP motors originally. 1/2 HP may not really be enough.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_album.asp?a=9540

Should take you to some pictures of my own power hacksaw. Made to a design published in ME some years ago. The original designer was a Mr R J Cochrane. The drawings are available from the ME plans service WE54.

It will cut 2"x 2" steel in about 25mins and 1.25" round steel in 5 mins.

The design says you need to weld the frame but mine is made without welding. The cost was under £50 as much of the steel channel and angle was from a friendly "offcuts bin" at a local steel fabricators.

Edited By Bizibilder on 24/07/2016 10:40:54

Sorry not quite true..... MS will charge for new installations but not upgrades to the free version of Windows 10. If you don't upgrade for free and want to in the future you will have to pay.

**LINK**

Leave the bit to be bent as long as possible to help - trying to bend a tiddly bit of steel rod is not easy!! Cut to length after bending.

Wash it in luke-warm soapy water - a few drops of washing up liquid in a bucket full of water will do. If necessary you could very gently wipe it with cotton wool whilst it is in the soapy water. Rinse with copious amounts of cold water, followed by a final rinse with distilled water (or water from a water filter if you don't have distilled). Prop the mirror on its side to drain and dry.