Member postings for ega

Brian G:

I have a Victorian hole-in-the-wall letterbox. Do you happen to know whether Carron were the sole makers? I would be glad to know the provenance of my letter box.

David Davies 8:

Your avatar seems to be on a PB?

Quite a bit about these in the Aubrey/Maturin novels.

I believe the foundry also made domestic items - swords and ploughshares!

There are numerous mobile apps which might help in finding the right pitch in between.

I have my own H&V saw set up so that one turn of the tensioning screw takes the blade from relaxed to correctly tensioned. This action is always coupled with turning the power (at the wall) on or off as appropriate which helps to avoid starting untensioned; as you rightly say, running untensioned will cause problems but I am not clear whether relaxing the blade actually helps to prolong its life.

Gray:

I assume that in use the device is clamped to the blade and a side load applied to the latter?

This is slightly reminiscent of the spoke tensiometers used by some cycle wheel builders; those with an ear pluck the spoke and note the pitch of the sound produced.

Clive:

Thank you.

I did try 3/8" blades for profiling in the vertical mode but my impression is that these small flanged-wheel H&V saws are really intended for 1/2" blades. Like the others, I have had good results from the Tuff Saws product and not yet had to take advantage of their re-welding guaranty.

In your hypothesis, no doubt the result would be like the "top off the double-decker bus" mentioned above. Martin Connelly's post is more like what I had in mind and I look forward to seeing his photo.

That said, Michael Gilligan's link suggests that multiple strikes don't necessarily disable the bridge.

Edited By ega on 04/12/2019 11:32:10

Does anyone know the actual result of a tall and heavy vehicle hitting the bull bar at speed?

Brian:

Thanks for your continued interest. I will try the wire test. I don't think you specified the kind of wire you use - I did think of using fishing line - but no doubt the workshop will yield something suitable.

I am reminded that the American TV series "The Wire" had the reputation of being largely incomprehensible and, at the same time, totally addictive!

Do you think it worthwhile to set the top guide as close as possible to the work so as to minimise the twist (or maximise the length of blade over which the twist occurs)?

Brian Wood:

Thanks for taking the trouble to elaborate.

Brian Wood

I, too, would welcome elaboration of the stretched wire method.

I am often "guilty" of not having the time to read the whole of a lengthy thread before posting. CTRL-F sometimes helps but is there a better way to avoid duplication, etc?

My Taiwanese horizontal/vertical bandsaw recently developed a noise which turned out to be from the start capacitor rattling in its housing (it had been glued to the motor casing).

Did anyone mention the use of a pipe cleaner bent into a U and hooked over the rotating leadscrew?

I am grateful to smokers for this possibility and, of course, for cigarette papers.

The Woodbine was intentionally small so as to be smoked during a tea break.

At first sight the low speed seems far too high and I wonder whether the pulleys could be changed to mitigate this.

I was under the impression that SIP products were not readily available other than to the trade; where could one get a look at them?

And with some suitable packing the work could sit directly on the table.

Thanks to GH for an excellent suggestion.

I dipped into mine in the bath last night - as ever a good read and beautifully produced; no doubt the idea is that it won't be lightly discarded along with the junk mail.

If John Stevenson failed with the stub drills then I clearly have no chance!

PS I wasn't quite clear whether the 127 gear comes as standard with the SC4?

The comparisons of ease of tapping suggest one possible advantage of the reviled standard Myford nuts; better to have to replace a relatively cheap component than the expensive leadscrew?

The WDS product looks excellent. However, I have just bought some well-priced handles from Axminster which seem perfectly fit for purpose.

I generally buy the female version since they can readily be used to produce custom male versions.

I think WDS used to sell BSW threaded but no longer do so.

I was surprised by this as I recently had no difficulty in tapping a length of cast iron 1/2" x 10TPI acme. I should add that this was done under power and the tapping hole was slightly oversize. Other materials may well be problematic, of course.

I'm hoping the new catalogue will include stub drills.