Here is a list of all the postings ega has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Cleaning an old lathe |
14/02/2020 16:59:30 |
Just discovered another way to double post! Edited By ega on 14/02/2020 17:00:07 |
14/02/2020 16:59:03 |
Some early hydraulic brakes did run on water. From memory, the Miller Indianapolis cars. |
Thread: Making taper reamers & pins |
14/02/2020 16:48:03 |
Posted by Mike Waldron on 14/02/2020 16:20:45:
... I’m presently making Edgar Westbury’s toolpost indexing device(1948 I think) ... Sounds interesting; can you post a reference to details of this? |
Thread: Cleaning an old lathe |
13/02/2020 17:56:34 |
Someone once told me that brake fluid would soften the carbon deposit in a cylinder head; might be worth a (careful) try. What is the lathe and might you post a picture? |
Thread: Drilling in the lathe - where did I go right? |
13/02/2020 11:21:00 |
A very effective way of opening up a pilot hole is to use a core drill with three or more flutes. In default, the pilot hole can be opened up to fit the larger drill with a boring bar even if this is too big to enter the target hole to any depth. |
Thread: Jaws in the chuck |
13/02/2020 00:30:22 |
Posted by Paul Kemp on 12/02/2020 22:28:58:
Steve, Second picture with the jaws in is the best for the reason you stated (safer) and also because more of the scroll is in contact so less likely to damage the chuck if you horse it up. Paul. Isn't there a trade-off between depth of engagement with the scroll and the distance between the work and the face of the chuck? Neither setting is ideal in my opinion. The chuck is apparently a Grip Tru and if it is in good condition it would be a shame to overtighten it. |
Thread: How to do 100 divisions |
10/02/2020 18:22:38 |
Too late to edit; I meant to say would *not* prevent. |
10/02/2020 17:50:52 |
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 10/02/2020 17:15:09:
OP says his lathe has gearbox... Presumably implying that he has no change gears that are accessible for this purpose they being, as Martin Cleeve would say, locked up in his gear box. Obviously, the gear box would prevent the use of change gears if available. |
Thread: silver solder rods |
10/02/2020 17:45:00 |
Thank you, Neil. And, by the way, so far as I am aware, there is no silver in silver steel! Edited By ega on 10/02/2020 17:45:42 |
Thread: Noisy Lathe Gearbox |
09/02/2020 14:39:12 |
STP stood for "Scientifically treated petroleum". |
Thread: Wilson Slant Bed Lathe |
09/02/2020 14:36:44 |
JC54: PM now sent. |
09/02/2020 13:26:02 |
Posted by JC54 on 09/02/2020 10:49:03:
Many thanks for your comments. if the lathe was mine I would buy the manual from Tony but it is a friends. Doubt he will want to spend money even though he got all of the machinery for nothing EGA could you tell me exactly what the manual covers please and what do you suspect is wrong with the gear selector. As to the steadies etc we are still sorting out what he has got, boxes, tubs, racks of stuff. A full workshop in a container?? John I'll PM you later today. |
09/02/2020 10:20:45 |
NDIY: Thanks - I've now "seen the light"! The slant bed might be an issue for anyone installing a DRO on the Willson. |
Thread: Rack operated tailstock ? |
09/02/2020 00:34:00 |
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 08/02/2020 15:08:18:
Posted by ega on 08/02/2020 14:54:07:
. But wouldn't you lock the barrel with screw feed? . Yes, but it holds position better than the rack, so you typically have the option of using one hand to do the two jobs sequentially. MichaelG. [very dominantly right-handed, so I tend to notice these things] Thanks for explaining. |
Thread: Wilson Slant Bed Lathe |
09/02/2020 00:27:44 |
I have a Willson (sic) of around the same vintage as your friend's and may be able to help with specifics. I forked out for Tony's manual but you may find a cheaper version online. Most of us owe a debt of gratitude to him. Mine came with travelling steady but not the peculiar-shaped fixed steady. I have knocked up an adapter to allow the use of a conventional fixed steady. It looks as though your gear selector needs attention. Is that a DRO above the headstock? Some photos of the installation would be welcome. |
Thread: Rack operated tailstock ? |
08/02/2020 14:54:07 |
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 08/02/2020 14:29:48:
Posted by ega on 08/02/2020 12:31:46:
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 07/02/2020 14:35:37:
.. It becomes a two-handed operation [or some variation on that theme] ... but I think the benefits outweigh that small disadvantage. MichaelG. MichaelG: May I trouble you to elaborate your two-handed point? […] . Yes of course ... The comment was specific to the use-case of appropriately loading a centre The rack & pinion doesn’t hold position [pressure] and therefore to lock the barrel I use my other hand MichaelG. Ah yes, of course; I should have thought of that. But wouldn't you lock the barrel with screw feed? |
Thread: Tool post for Myford ML10 lathe |
08/02/2020 14:26:11 |
John Baron: Good point about the split clamp (cotter). In fact, mine was the simpler type to a Len Mason design in ME. The reduced centre height of the ML10 might be an issue for this type of toolpost since the "shelf" on which the tool sits needs to be thick enough to resist deflection. I later made a four-way indexing toolpost to the GHT design and have sometimes wondered whether he would have become a QCTP convert. |
Thread: Rack operated tailstock ? |
08/02/2020 12:31:46 |
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 07/02/2020 14:35:37:
Posted by lfoggy on 07/02/2020 12:55:06:
. I am considering fitting a rack operated tailstock attachment to my Myford 254+ to help with drilling and reaming etc. […] I am wondering how good the rack operated tailstock is for other applications however, like pressing a revolving centre into a work piece. How convenient do users of this type of tailstock find them? Is it a worthwhile mod?
. It becomes a two-handed operation [or some variation on that theme] ... but I think the benefits outweigh that small disadvantage. MichaelG. MichaelG: May I trouble you to elaborate your two-handed point? I'm having difficulty in envisaging a situation in which there would be more of a need for two hands with the rack feed as opposed to the screw. I use a lever feed with great satisfaction on my S7 and can't imagine reverting to the standard arrangement. The only small disadvantage that I encounter is that the tailstock is somewhat tail-heavy when the lever is fully extended to the right. Incidentally, although I would like to try the (expensive) rack feed, the lever does allow you to vary the mechanical advantage. |
Thread: Tool post for Myford ML10 lathe |
08/02/2020 12:18:12 |
John Baron: Am I right in thinking that, strictly speaking, the Norman patent envisaged a square section hole rather than an open slot? I used one like yours for some years - cheap and easy to make and very versatile. I have seen a suggestion that the height adjustment screw should be as near as possible to the tool tip so as to prevent or limit dipping. |
Thread: Effect of Tensioning a Boring Bar |
07/02/2020 11:27:56 |
Posted by Graham Meek on 07/02/2020 11:09:16:
... There were several things that I picked up on. One the L/D 4 bar protrusion for a standard bar. Another which GHT seems to have got right form the start, is that Sandvik recommend mounting bars in sleeves rather than just clamping them in the toolholder. I notice from old mart's link that Cutwel do a Quick Change Anti-Vibration Tool Holder for Imperial Boring Barswhich looks very much like the GHT sleeve but costs over £118! Thanks for those other useful pointers. I understand that the shape of the cutting edge also affects the direction in which the tool is pushed away from the bore - perhaps, therefore, another reason for using shop-made or modified cutting tools. Edited By ega on 07/02/2020 11:28:18 Edited By ega on 07/02/2020 11:28:55 |
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