Member postings for ega

A great loss.

I agree about the Autolock; mine has a damping ring which is said to improve its stability.

If you were to make your own ER chuck you would have some control over the dimensions.

I would have been inclined to agree but one authority points out that "The end of the [core] drill ... does not come to a point, as in the case of the ordinary drill. For this reason the web can be made thicker, so that a stronger drill results."

Core drills need a pilot hole but are otherwise excellent. I think they come in four flute style as well.

Mike:

Have sent PM to avoid OT clutter.

Mike:

From what I know of you, you were trawling rather than trolling!

I use Thunderbird and find the filter and search features very helpful.

I mostly use the QSM on the lathe but, as a demonstration of its versatility, have added a couple of photos to the end of my Miscellaneous album showing it being used to machine the face of the casting on the head of my mill/drill.

I think that if John Payne were designing the machine today recent developments might have made a cheaper result possible; perhaps, eg, avoiding the need for the gearbox.

Lots about this in Martin Cleeve's Screwcutting in the Lathe (WPS3).

The QSM is a very useful piece of kit, sold by Hemingway but production temporarily suspended hence, perhaps, what seems like a premium price. See their website.

Drawings are available for DIY builders.

Edited By ega on 15/10/2017 23:58:26

Nor (according to the index) in the 1964 catalogue.

Eddy Curr:

I very much like the idea of loosening the chuck by repeated blows without immobilising the spindle and will try this if the need arises.

Instinctively, however, it would seem that the blows should be "radial" rather than axial and that a hammer tool (as opposed to the mechanic's air wrench) would be less suitable.

The Amateur's Lathe contains a design for a stop mounted to the right of the carriage; left-hand designs depend on whether a gearbox is fitted.

I remember being taken there as a schoolboy by someone who needed a repair to a silver salver and being particularly struck by the aprons which connected the craftspeople to their benches; I think I was told that the precious sweepings were carefully collected at the end of the day.

Correcting myself, the LHS book is A Man and his Lathe.

Apologies to anyone who spent time looking in the wrong place!

peter blair:

Thanks for your response.

I have sent a message to your inbox on this website.

I know what you mean. My 1960s Willson has BSW fasteners which are obviously more difficult to get than eg metric or UNC. Fortunately, the market for vintage motor bikes seems to have encouraged manufacturers to go on producing BSW.

peter blair:

I feel sure that if there is a member near to you they would be glad to show you or lend their copy of MEW; unfortunately, like so many other people asking for help, you have no public profile and I don't think you told us where you are.

The MEW article is based on an idea by L H Sparey and described in his essential book The Amateur's Lathe.

The principle of this method is the same as Steve Jordan's but, to me at least, seems quicker and less messy. Incidentally, I would not recommend standing the chuck on its register on removal as seen in the video as this is likely to cause any chips present to fall into the chuck thread.

That said, plus one for the Boa as a generally useful tool.

The stuck chuck is more likely to afflict those who leave their chuck in place for long periods and, for peace of mind, you might consider loosening your chuck after every work session.

Some wooden candlesticks have a metal cup to catch dripping wax.

Prevention is better than cure. If a lot of heavy, intermittent cutting is being undertaken it is a sensible precaution to check from time to time that the chuck has not become overtight (the same point applies to faceplate work where intermittent cuts are perhaps more likely).

Brian G:

That useful table seems to confirm that 15mm AF is not standard.