Member postings for EdH

Hi Stuart,

Have you locked the quill and applied the cut by using the table?

The site for Bengs in Germany has them for sale, not sure what they would cost by the time the import, vat and postage was added

https://www.bengs-modellbau.de/werkzeug/werkzeuge/parallelzwinge-spannhand?number=3431

Clive, what you are looking for is an Airzooka, about £11 online

EdH

If it’s of any use I found that my old “PURE One Classic DAB radio gets better reception with the top 3 of the 8 sections of the aerial closed down. I haven’t noticed this effect on my FM radio so keep it’s aerial fully extended.

It’s the Freeview TV I have trouble with, when the sun comes out the signal breaks up.

If it's the dimensions for the diameter of the formers then they are all 0.187 different to each other so start with the largest at 1.500 and work downwards. I suspect the problem is with the 0.938 on the lower right hand side as the print has a mark across the 9 of 0.938.

Search for "Who has one of these tapping fixture tools ?" in the Search this Site box at the top right.

I can't remember who originally designed this but I have made two from LIDL drill stands and they work fine and are cheap to make.

EdH

In the "Model Engineers Handbook" by Tubal Cain (pages 152 or later editions 13.9) there is a table giving the safe load in screws and bolts covering 0-16BA and 5/8" Whitworth down to 1/8"x40.

If you are not well practiced in tightening nuts and bolts etc then making up a practice piece and testing till destruction will give you a "feel" for when a fastener is tight enough or over tight and starting to fail.

I've had over 60 years experience with small nuts and bolts starting with Meccano in the 50's and you can definitely get a feel for how tight it should be. The right tool for the job makes a difference as well.

I have had a PressParts oil gun for a number of years and it works as expected without leaks and I don't need to use a cloth over the oil nipple. I keep it sitting nozzle up in a can when not in use.

One thing that always interested me is why the spring inside the oil nipples is so strong as to need a high pressure to allow the oil to pass. I reduced the spring pressure in the nipples on my Myford and all works well. I took the nipples out and checked they passed oil before and after modification, some were blocked before the reduction in spring pressure and nothing would pass oil through them. Has anyone else tested their oil nipples actually pass oil?

The PresParts oil gun is up to the job with the standard nipples.

I have a couple of unusual micrometers, the adjustable one is by Starrett and has no model number and the smaller black one is a Cicerimet. They are not used but function perfectly though I haven’t checked them for accuracy.

The sad loss of someone who would give his time and study even though he was not enjoying good health himself.

EdH

How do you get the tractor to stick to the walls, mine always fall to the floor?

I have also had excellent service from both Arc Eurotrade and the Royal Mail as recently I ordered some reamers and they were in my hands in less than 24 hours.

If you used a tee (T) with the steam line going across the top and the snifting valve hanging down, in the closed position it should seal at low pressure but any vacuum would lift the ball off it's seat.

Why not fit each boiler with a snifting valve.

If there isn’t a spare bush I’m sure you could come up with one to fit in the steam supply line.

I use a 120 degree spot drill then drill with a 118 degree twist drill, this should ensure the central chisel edge of the twist drill contacts the metal first and not the lip as if it did this would probably throw the drill off centre if one of the lips started to bite before the other. I was led to believe this is why a 120 degree spot drill was produced.

Otherwise follow what JasonB does and make a small dimple and not a spot the size of the drill diameter.

If you are going to buy a ready made loco and you don’t have much knowledge about them then make sure to see it running and have someone who fully understands locos with you to check it out.

I worked on a loco that had been bought from a reputable dealer many years ago and at the time the buyer did not have much experience of them so any running test would make it look like it works but having seen it recently I found out that it was badly made. The stroke was supposed to be 2.25” but the cranks were machined for 2.00” stroke. The valves were moved in a bridle but the bridled fitted the steam chest so tightly that it cut off the steam at around 25% of the stroke. The axles were cockeyed across the frame. One valve was 0.125” too short and the other 0.0625” as someone possibly the original builder had tried to correct the slanted cutting of the valve ports. One expansion link had a gouge in it on the inside running surface. The eccentric shafts were all different lengths.

The list goes on and on but it did run if very poorly but at the time the buyer was unaware of this.

Another chassis had been purchased to use as a replacement but this was just as bad so beware before parting with any money. There are good locos out there but you’ll need experience to find them.

Success!

My club colleague has made contact with Adam from CRO Fittings.

Thanks everyone for your assistance in this matter.

Hopefully two happy people - one selling, one buying.

Can anyone help with the following please?

A club member has obtained a 5” 9F loco build project with some top feed fittings from “CRO Fittings” but unfortunately only the main castings and some small O rings which suggest the clack is a shuttle type not a ball. He wants to know if the internal parts are still available or the dimensions so he can make them himself. Trying to contact CRO Fittings has proved useless, are they still in business? No answer to phone or email.

See my album for photos of the fittings which look good so I can see why he wants to use them.

The drawings for Martin Evan's "Green Arrow" were in the centre fold of ME’s 4394/5/6  Dec2010 to Feb 2011.

Edited By EdH on 09/10/2018 12:44:32

We finally got the Steinel mill to release the MT3 collet by using a C spanner on the collet release nut and a good fitting spanner on the 9mm drawbar, both situated on the top of the spindle. It took a bit more force than expected so had probably been tightened a little too enthusiastically. I was worried that the drawbar would break but it held out ok. It was the amount of force required that was causing the uncertainty in what to do.

No large hammers required, that earlier remark was facetious on my part.

I’m glad I have R8 on my mill, undoes without any hassle or force.

Thanks to everyone who replied for your well received advice and information.