Member postings for GoCreate

I found this video very interesting regarding early treatments.

My method of lapping my Lion cylinders seems to have attracted some criticism, which is fine, I'm always happy to learn from the experience of others.

While lapping my cylinders I didn't experience any significant torque applied to my cylinder, should I have let go of the cylinder there would not have been any possibility of the lap jamming or gripping the cylinder and have it flying around, the weight of the cylinder alone would just leave it hanging on the lap. In any case I was being very careful through out the process and didn't get any lapping compound in the chuck.

There are commercial honing machines where the part is held by hand, I would expect honing will be much more aggressive than lapping, at least in my case anyway, with much more torque applied to the part.

Regarding the cloth, well it was felt actually, that's a fair enough comment. The felt was packed inside the plastic tube to expend it with no real risk of it flapping around and getting caught in rotating machinery, but all the same with hindsight not recommended.

Cheers

Nigel

Good advice from Nigel Graham, I've used wood dowel for lapping small bores by making the lap a fairly tight fit and not bothered to split it, and it's and it's always worked out ok.

When I did my Lion cylinders I used a plastic pipe split along it's length and packed with some foam, I did a video of it.

I've also used a lead lap, casting lead around a tapered bar, turning to diameter and the tapping it further on the tapered bar to expand it, it worked pretty well but I now prefer to use aluminium, plastic or wood.

Nigel

Vic, Amazing set up and a beautiful lathe.

I also did a video spiral milling

John, very interesting set up, it must be very satisfying to complete a long slender lead screw like the one you show. It's good to see your making your own cutters, the Eureka device in on my project list.

Nigel

John, some interesting spiral milling, allot of versatility in the cnc route.

Nigel

After crunching his plastic speed change gear in his WM12 mill, a fellow model engineer asked if I could make a replacement for him. Not to waste set up time I made a few just in case I was asked again. Thankfully he reported back that the gear fitted perfectly with little noticeable increase in gear noise, that was a relief.

Nigel

Impressive set up Baldric, that gear train must of taken some serious maths.

Nigel

Les, that looks a great set-up, I like the idea of using the right angle drill adapter. Getting a nice spiral groove is very satisfying.

Ian, thanks for watching my video, I actually used a form tool to cut the teeth on the timing pulley.

Nigel

A while back I converted a Drumond lathe head stock to work as a spiral milling attachment for my mill, photo's in my album.

Recently I was asked to do an interesting job milling a spiral into a shaft for a throttle assembly for an old motorbike. I used the Drumond head stock and it worked out really well.

The head stock is driven from the lead screw using a timing belt and pulleys, though in this case the belt had to be twisted to reverse the direction of rotation of the head stock, I've posted some pictures below.

I hope this is of interest and helpful

Nigel

Edited By tractionengine42 on 16/06/2021 18:11:33

Just finished my 2" Baby Bench Vice build, Finally a nice little quality bench vice. I based it loosely upon the 'WILTON' design popular in the USA. An interesting and worthwhile project.

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Nigel

Maybe this will help. I profile turned my connecting rods using a former. My video shows how I did it.

Profile turning Lion connecting rods

Nigel

Finished the Buffers for my 5" g Lion build. Tried to get a close resemblance to the originals, I think they look quite acceptable. They are around 20mm diameter.

The original appears to be made of leather held together with metal straps, I used MDF to represent the leather and added some texture using a lead pencil and a final varnish using a matt polyurethane .

My Elliot 10M motor runs at 725 rpm. I got an electric rewind company to convert it from 3 phase to on 240v single phase with a run capacitor.

As it hasn't got a start winding it runs up slow, because the shaper uses a clutch and the motor runs continually this has not been a problem.

Nigel

Thanks everyone for sharing your thoughts and experiences, (especially IanT, Howard Lewis and Oily rag).

Roger - that Angnt info, especially the sectional drawings is very interesting, a high end precision tool. I guess for production work a "floppy" reamer would be far from desirable but manageable in a home workshop.

Anyway, I've now got some fresh ideas regarding making a floating reamer holder for my larger reamers with MT shanks, but I'm going to leave it for a while, need to re-focus on my Lion build.

Cheers
Nigel

Thanks Ian

Great to hear your enjoying my Lion build on YouTube, it's quite a big effort to do the videos so your interest is much appreciated.

Cheers

Nigel

Yeah, you've hit the nail on the head. My lathe is good for the money and got me into the hobby, it's 20 years old now so no complaints. So far a good old iron lathe has eluded me. When you move to a rigid machine the difference is outstanding.

Nigel

Hi Oily Rag

My go to mill is a a Deckel FP1 circa 1947 amazingly accurate inspite of it's age, one of my few indulgences. An Elliot Shaper and Omni-mill are my other prides of joy. Unfortunately my lathe is not in that category but adequate.

Cheers

Nigel

Thanks for the picture that explains allot of what your are saying.

I would like to also make a Floating Reamer Holder for taper shank reamers, you've given me some food for thought.

Cheers

Nigel

I have noticed some angular alignment issues in my set up with reamer/drills deflecting as they enter a previously drilled hole, so I included the ball to try and address this. I did wonder whether the mass of a chuck would be detrimental, approaching this as a hobbyist I thought it was worth a try, the tool was an experiment and for sure could be improved.

I based my design upon a commercial product I was shown some time ago which was just as "floppy" as my design and I was told it had some angular freedom of movement as well as radial. While I didn't get the finer detail of it's design this is my best guess how it worked as far as I can fathom, my design achieves, as best as I can, the same result as the commercial one I was shown.

You got me thinking and it would be possible to move the pivot point in front og the taper on the collar/chuck carrier, the tool works very well for what I want so I'm not inclined to spend any more time on it.

Other than the one I was shown I'm not familiar with any other designs and didn't look into it, my aim was to replicate the commercial one I was shown and saw working.

Thanks for some interesting feedback.

Nigel

I have a hinged type C spanner that can be used on different diameters, really useful, It's like this one

Nigel