Member postings for steamdave

Brian

I don't know where you are located, but is there a model engineering club or another engine builder anywhere near where you live? If so, why not take your engine along and let others see first hand what the problem is. Being able to see up close and dirty will be a lot easier to diagnose the fault than trying to describe things in writing.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I swear AT Starrett blades. Bought a bunch of bi metallic ones some years ago and the teeth seem to just Fall off, regardless of the tension put on the hacksaw frame.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Once a King, always a King.
Once a Night is enough.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I've had my Thiel 158 for a number of years now, and am very pleased with it. I was lucky to get a torpedo vertical head for it, the only downside to which was that it has a MT5 socketr, whereas the horizontal spindle has a Thiel taper. I made up a number of MT5 blanks which have been converted into toolholding as required.

There's a bit of backlash in the X axis, but the DRO takes care of any positioning problems.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Many German eBay sellers, it seems, do not accept PayPal.. When I purchased something from Germany recently, PayPal wasn't even an option. Bank transfer was how I had to do the deal. I looked at several other items for sale from different sellers and they were the same.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

The Hemmingway Sensitive knurler is a copy of the Marlco item. The design for model engineering first appeared in EIM vol 2(?), but Hemmingway have probably 'refined' that design somewhat.

Construction was not very difficult, and this said by a metal butcher.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I'm very pleased with my Thiel 158. Fortunately, it came with all the original attachments, which is just as well because if anything can be found, it tends to be quite expensive. I removed the very suspect electrics and now run it from a 1 - 3 phase inverter. I've also added a 3 axis DRO because there is a bit of backlash, particularly in the X axis. I know I can compensate for this manually, but I'm lazy!

Originally supplied to the Armstrong Whitworth Aircraft company in 1971.

This is a Ram type machine. The vertical head stays in place when in horizontal mode. The 28 x 10" table tilts 30 degrees left/right, front back and the table is removable leaving 2 horizontal Tee slots for mounting tools, although I have never done a job that needs this facility. I would like the fixed table if I could ever find one at an economic price just for the extra real estate it provides.

The footprint for quite a large machine is moderate, but the weight of the machine bare is approximately 1.25 T. It still sits on the industrial pallet that it was delivered on, although it had chocks inserted between the top and bottom planks. I don't have the headroom to lift it off the pallet, but there has been no problem for the 10 years or so that have owned it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

For a Myford 7 series lathe, I found I had to crank the toolbit end down 1/4" + to be able to get the cutting edge at centre height, using a qctp.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I use a length of natural fibre cord/thin rope with a piece of cotton rag tied in the end. Thread the rope through the mandel bore from the headstock end pull through. When the rag gets dirty, it is easily changed for a new piece.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I bought two 300ml ones off eBay Germany. Absolute bargain - 2 for less than the price of one new one in UK. Postage was reasonable, too. They were described as Used, but on inspection when I got them, there was no sign of any oil inside. Both have rigid spouts and I see no reason to change to the flexible type I do need to make an adapter to fit the oil nipples of my machine, though, to maximise their usefulness..

Dave
The Emerald Isle

As an aging bloke, I too have the problem of lifting stuff from floor to machine.

I don't have headroom for an electric hoist a la Lidl, so after some thinking and not coming up with much in the conventional world, I finally decided on a dinghy mainsheet track and sliders, inverted from normal usage. SWL 660kgs, which is heavier than anything I will want to move. The hoist is an old Haltrac mini hoist - used to lift engines out of cars before engine cranes were thought of by amateurs. Makes light work of lifting chucks and rotary tables, etc.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Before starting to get my hands dirty in the workshop, I rub in some barrier cream. It really does prevent getting your hands too hard to clean afterwards. Most of the time I could get away with using soap and water, but just to make sure, I usually clean off with De-Solv It beaded hand cleaner before the soap. It is petroleum free so doesn't take all the oil out of your skin. Got it off eBay, but I think Kleenezee or one of those type of outfits sell it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

...or make your own. Get the grandkids to tear up the paper and then 'cast' them next time over.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

What has also been used is electrical test meter leads.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Andrew

Whatever steel you can lay your hands on will be plenty good enough. Some have even made their holders for QCTPs out of aluminium.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

To help keeping the milling machine table clean, I have made up a couple of boards that fit either side of the vice. A spine of 3/4 x 1/2" (to fit Tee slot) glued underneath keeps them in place. A couple of coats of varnish prevents oils soaking in.

They also help protect the table from accidents, like dropping cutters, etc.

Most, but not all swarf is excluded, and certainly makes cleaning up a lot faster and easier.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I bought a new West European milling machine a couple of years ago. It was about three times the cost of a Far East equivalent, but I doubt that it is anywhere near three times as good. In fact I would not be quick to recommend this particular make.

Dave
The Emerald Isle