Member postings for steamdave

ega

Send me a private message with your email address and I'll send you all the info. There is too much to put here.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Chuck Fellows (RIP) described a small sensitive drill table and I based mine on his design.

It uses a linear bearing for the vertical slide. The screw holes are spaced to accept a Myford vice and extra counterweights are available to maintain a neutral balance. It mounts on the milling machine table or in the main vice easily. It may not suit Barry's requirements for the high speed but Mike mentioned a very valid point about sensitivity.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Edited By steamdave on 23/04/2022 12:50:15

Edited By steamdave on 23/04/2022 12:51:13

I would second JB's opinion of the Femi bandsaws. Stakesy's was the cheapest place when I was looking and service was also good.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Here's another way to make a rope knurl

http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Projects/RopeKnurl/ropeknurl.html

Dave
The Emerald Isle

At long last, I have machined the .375" concave radius in the parts that I was making.

Thanks to all the suggestions and help offered.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Ramon

I remember those units. The scales were sourced from computer printers, but not sure about the box of tricks, but probably used some of the electronics of the printers of the day.

Doesn't help with your problem, though.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

ps Sorry, I've just noticed MG's post above!

Edited By steamdave on 02/04/2022 07:48:56

Well, there's plenty of food for thought in those replies!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

DC I know where you are coming from, but although I'm not good with maths I can use a calculator to convert from Metric to Imperial. In the end, I doubt that a thou or two either way will be noticed after it is covered in paint. Thanks for the links.

JB Following a suggestion, I'll use a button tool to do the cutting.

Bernard. I'd thought of using a graver but access is too restricted (There are actually two parts end to end, to be split later).

Dave
The Emerald Isle

John, I need help with both formula writing and the spreadsheet. Andy says he will send me a spreadsheet, so I'll see how that goes before getting back to you.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I need to machine a .375" concave arc in aluminium.

I consider the radius too large for a form tool because there is not a lot of metal to hold in the chuck, although the small end will be supported by a centre.

So, I would like to create a table in Excel to give me the cross slide and longitudinal infeeds. The tool width will be 3/32" and the curve will be smoothed afterwards with a file and emery cloth.

Searching Google, I can only find info on drawing freeform arcs. Can anyone explain how to make the required table, or point me to an online instruction. I don't have any CAD programmes.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Is it possible to send a private message to a YouTube contributor?

I would like to make contact with barumman, who I believe is a member of the SMEE (and may be also a contributor on this or other model engineering forums).

If anyone knows of this gentleman, would they please point him in my direction.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

The only disadvantage of a keyless chuck over a conventional type is that when used in the milling machine, a lot of headroom is lost.

Maybe not an issue on larger machines, but it needs to be taken into consideration on smaller hobby type mills.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

The wife of an acquaintance in Oregon has a collection of more than 100 sewing machines. All different shapes and sizes. All fully working and like you, I was amazed in the quality of the workmanship of the period.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I have a Wabeco milling machine. I bought it in favour of a far eastern equivalent because of where I live and I liked the idea of a 5 year warranty and 'German' quality. It was nearly 3 times the cost of the equivalent far eastern machine.

My machine was made in the far east and finished / checked in Germany. It was about 2 weeks over the 5 year warranty period when the European built-in inverter blew up. The UK supplier of Wabeco tools wanted £1000 for a new motor/inverter combo. What I did was buy a separate inverter for 25% of the price and wired it into the original motor. Still going strong.

Moral of the story: Just because it is labelled as 'Made in Germany', or wherever and there is a long warranty period doesn't make the tool any better than a far eastern machine.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Or, if you fancy making a Stuart engine, look on eBay for the castings. That way should get you a set at a lot less than what Stuarts are asking. If they are being sold without drawings, these are available from Stuart Models. Other designs also frequently come up for sale. Probably best to avoid part built engines, at least to start with - you never know what horrors you may come across.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

10 years or so ago, there was an experimental tidal generator in the Bay Of Fundy (Canada). Talking to crew members of the support vessel, they told me that the generator lasted about 6 months before being destroyed by boulders being washed to and fro on the tides trying to pass through the generator. Apparently, it did produce good quantities of electricity when it (briefly) worked.

On one of the previous posts about Pumped Hydro, this system, but using sea water, has been working in Okinawa for about 20 years. There is a plan to copy their design in Co. Mayo, Ireland where a lake 150m above sea level is located very close to the sea. Like most things in Ireland, it might get built one day after all the bureaucratic interference has been overcome.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I had never heard of a Ludwig Hunger valve seat cutter before, so did a quick search and I found out the company is still in business.

https://www.ludwig-hunger.de/index.php/eng/Products/Automotive/Counterboring-valve-seat-ring-bores

Maybe worth contacting them.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I'm not going down any sort of casting process. I've got enough processes to cope with at the moment. But thanks for your idea Tim.

Tug. I've decided on the silver soldered approach and will consider the surface finish when I've achieved a suitable shape. Probably several weeks down the line at the speed I work at.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Peter. I don't have a 3D printer, nor do I know anyone with one, so that idea is out.

I think I will go with my original idea and carve from the solid, cut off a slice and silver solder a flat plate where the slice was removed. The bead will be incorporated in the turning of the outside and I'll pre-solder a bead on the flat plate before securing it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I've just registered with T.T., Andrew, in order to search for the topic.

Noel. The original may well have been cast, but at the scale I'm using the use of something like coarse Scotchbrite to take away the shine will probably not look too different. Besides, I have no casting facilities or experience nor is there anyone locally with such knowledge. I suppose I did ask for other ideas!

Dave
The Emerald Isle