Member postings for Bob Youldon

Hi Dev,

The 21/2" gauge Black 5 was described the construction in the Model Engineer by Martin Evans either late 1985 and early 1986, the Model Engineers in question may be available from say TEE publishing and the drawings may be available from sarikhobbies.com

Usual disclamers,

Regards,

Bob

Hello,

Generally the connecting rods will have been removed as part of the preperations before moving the locomotive.

Regards,

Bob

Good morning Stewart

I can confirm the hobby does somewhat take over. I started building my first locomotive, a LBSC Juliet when I was sixteen and I'm still building locomotives almost sixty years later! I started out on an ex lease lend Atlas lathe with a vertical slide for milling and a 1/4" capacity drill press, I really had nothing more than that. A few of my father drills and I remember buying my first 6BA tap and die from Aird's in Brighton. I suppose the rest is history.

Like yourself I read probably everyhing there is to read from the old chap, insperational. I wouldn't like to suggest a first locomoptive, what I would say have a look on youtube at the Littlelec competitions, you will get some idea of the power of the smaller designs.

To join a club is essential, I would suggest you have a look at the websites of the Southern Federation , Northern association and the Midlands association, all of which carry information of the various chubs in your area.]

Remember, the first time you attack a piece of metal with a hacksaw, you're no longer a beginner, you're in there with the rest of us!

Yours, still building,

Bob

Hi Doubletop,

Probably not the most portable track I've seen!

Regards,

Bob

Hi Phil,

Having done it in the past with 3/64" rivets drill a 3/64" hole if posable right through drop a little high strength Loctite in the hole with a pin and pop the rivet in, it may pay to ensure the rivets are free from grease and oil, give then a wash in a drop of soppy water rinse and dry them on a tin lid on the cooker, it'll work every time, don't worry if there's a spot of surplus loctite around the head, wait for it to go off and clean the job up with a rotary wire brush.

Regards,

Bob

Hello David,

I've built three LMS 4Fs in 3.5" gauge all with clamp type doors, I built the door and the seating ring all in one piece with four dummy clamps and only two in the twelve o clock and six o clock positions were used to secure the door. the clamps in that case held the entire door sealing ring hinges etc the bolts used were 8BA with 9BA heads. The method does give a reasonable appearance to the door when finished and undoing a couple of bolts to clean the smokebox I don't find a problem.

If you contact me via my e-mail address I can send you a number of photographs of the system i used.

Regards,

Bob

Hi Martin,

My last sentence should have read :- The Dee design is based on the ex SECR class D locomotives, a pretty little locomotive.

Sorry

Bob

Hi Martin

I'm sure the boiler is as Mick has said for a "Project" as are the set of frames shown on the right of the picture, the frames etc on the left would appear to be for the G1 "Dee". Both designs are described in books published by the Gauge 1 Association, see www.g1mra.com The project design was producedfor the beginner but I think even in the revised books there are still a number of grey areas. The Design is based in the ex SECR class D locomotives, a pretty little locomotive.

Regards,

Bob

Hello Nick,

I think you'll find its an orb spider, common in these parts, I've a couple in the garden at the moment.

I think your's may be called Doris!

Regards,

Bob

Hello Anthony,

What about the Fareham society? see http://www.fdsme.org.uk/

I understand tha6y have a fair set up.

Regards Bob

Hello Howard,

Without the benefit of a works drawing to hand, I'm certain with the BR standard single chimney locomotives a pipe was fitted inside the smokebox from the elbow and connected with the petticote casting to vent the exhaust into the chimney; on some double chimney locomotives (class 4 4-6-0s) the exhaust had it's own seperate port through the top of the chimney casting.

Regards,

Bob

Good morning Malcolm,

like yourself all those years ago I started with a blowlamp, in fact my first boiler for a Juliet was completed with the aid of an evil 5 pint ex army blowlamp, that was an experience particularly when it decided to shoot a jet of flaming paraffin about 10 feet forward, just like a flame thrower! mind you as an apprentice, one old fitter used a petrol blowlamp! I always thought that was a bit dangerous especially in confined spaces.

Regards,

Bob

Hi Malcolm,

If it is your first attempt at a major silver soldering job then I'd suggest using a couple of differing grade filler rods as has been suggested, Having built a good number of boilers over the years I now only use one grade of silver solder for every operation, what I will do though is to lightly flux every previously made joints and always use a flux capable of withstanding prolonged heating, I only use propane for heating, a couple of lamps for the larger 5" gauge boilers with plenty of heat retention, uses less gas and to let the job cool slowly, reducing the risk of any stress cracking etc.

It may be worth you tracking down a copy of Alec farmer's boiler making book, interesting.

Regards,

Bob Youldon

Hi all,

Going back to the original posting regarding the LBSC designs, it must be remembered most date from the early twenties through to the mid sixties and the imperial measurement was in full swing; not one of his designs was intended to be produced by todays CAD, CNC, rapid prototyping etc, each were intended to be a hand built job using the limited facilities that were available then and all fitting was by hand by the builder, it doesn't matter a jot if it's measured in whatever unit the builder choses. I would suggest some of the correspondents read his Maisie instructions, or come to that Martin Evan's Springbok, both designs have been built in their hundreds, probably more examples than their full size counterparts! Steam locomotives are not complicated.

Take a look at the drawings for Stephenson's Rocket, 1/64"s and 1/128"s abound, no metric there then! and that's where it all started.

As I approach my mid seventies I will and can easily work in either imperial or metric, I have to; it doesn't faz me but don't decry one format as one being better that the other.

When it comes to the actual process of constructing your locomotive, I'd like to see the first all CNC built boiler!

Regards,

Bob

Good morning Colin,

Sadly today what you want and what you can get are two different things, years ago chrome plated drop forged combination spanners in the BA sizes were produced by a few of the better manufacturers, sadly, not so today.

BA has become a non prefered size; you may be lucky to find a very similar sized combination set from a supplier in the USA. My own BA spanners I've aquired over something like sixty years and even today whilst wandering around the odd boot fair I sometimes come away with the odd useful find.

Model Engineers Laser do a set of laser cut spanners, you could always case harden a set, again they're always useful as you can bend them into any shape to get to that odd nut etc!

Bergen do a nice ten piece metric combination set, that might suit.

Regards,

Bob

Good morning all,

What an interesting thread.

I cannot add to the copyrights issue except to say in the past many of the early LBSC designs, the drawings of which, were either drawn or LBSC's originals redrawn by Roy Donaldson and marketed by Donaldson and Piper, which I seem to think may have been sold on to the then A J Reeves; I have a set of Jennie Deans drawings on which the Donaldson and Piper reference has been lined through and the A J Reeves reference applied.

Interestingly, Kennions redrew many of the LBSC designs, which may have been a result of a copyright issue. I have here copies for Molly drawn by both the then publisher Percival Marshall's own tracer and Kennions.

In view of the impending anniversary of the old fella's death there may be an opportunity for the present Model Engineer to publish a special LBSC edition.

Regards'

Bob

Hello Geoff,

What to build? well what a question, you'll no doubt get many designs suggested, but much depends on your skill level, available machinery, depth of pocket etc. My first advice would be to join a local model engineering society if you haven't already done so, perhaps look a a couple, go and have a chin wag in the steaming bays. Then there is always the question to build in either 3½" or 5" gauge, you could go away and build a 5" gauge Britannia, Duchess A4 etc, only it'll take that much longer and the bits are that much larger and importantly, heavier. Personally I'd try and take on a design, the construction of which has been described in the past. but I'd steer clear of the smaller 3½" gauge tank locomotives, their performance on the track although reasonable also leaves a lot to be desired considering all the work that has gone into the build. Of the 3½ designs I'd suggest LBSC's Masie, it has a great build manual, hundreds have been built and they do what it says on the tin! Some of the smaller 5" gauge designs are worth a look, Don Young's Glen is a straight forward excellent design and you've got a tender to put you cup of tea on! Take a look on line at the various supplier's cataloguers, if only for inspiration and gulp at the prices some are asking.

Here's wishing you every success with your chosen design,

Regards,

Bob

Hello Duncan,

I think Model Engineers Laser use a water jet cutting system for their links when using gauge plate.

A good friend had his 4" Foster traction engine link and die block wire eroded in gauge plate, the fit and finish is superb, not a cheap exercise though.

Well done Ivattlms pointing out that round die blocks just slide, old LBSC pointed that out in one of his articles back in the 50's and as someone has already said it would only provide a point loading on the link.

Regards

Bob

Good morning all,

As one who has reached the age of the bus pass, cracked fingers and entitled to the free prescription, do you think it's worth a visit to my quack ( delightful young lady) to see if one may obtain a prescription for a bucket of udder cream from my local apothecary?

Bob

Hello peter,

I've used case hardened mild steel in the past and was very successful; the only reason for using guage plate in it's natural state today as it's easier to obtain than case hardening powder and probably cheaper!

Should you fancy it, Model Engineers Laser ( usual disclamer) can supply the links pre cut to shape in gauge plate should that be of any help.