Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Anthony Mount Rectilinear Engine |
19/02/2010 13:11:07 |
Can't help with the cross engine as I don't have the articles on that but I will post a link to a cross engine later today, Its another polished brass & black German job.
Jason |
19/02/2010 07:38:04 |
They are described in the text as press fits though I see no reason why you cannot use loctite if they have already been machined to a looser fit.
BTW there is a good build diary here
Jason |
Thread: Scale nuts and bolts |
17/02/2010 07:35:27 |
Could have saved all that trouble and just looked in the "model engineers handbook" It has a table that gioves the same data
Jason |
Thread: Fluorosint , mica filled ptfe |
15/02/2010 20:09:14 |
Noggin End do it
Jason |
Thread: T/E Identification |
15/02/2010 07:29:53 |
PM Sent |
Thread: Tertium Quid Drawing Errors |
15/02/2010 07:29:00 |
They are in the "Best of Model engineering Vol II" don't think its on the site.
Jason |
Thread: T/E Identification |
14/02/2010 16:48:24 |
Thats not far off Minnie sizes but there are a few other 1" engines about from the 50-60s. Can you post a picture?
Jason |
Thread: Tertium Quid Drawing Errors |
11/02/2010 07:25:29 |
Valve nut is also given as 4/32 (7) should be 9/32
J |
Thread: Novice beginner |
10/02/2010 17:58:32 |
I,ve just had a look through all the old 3" Burrells on SRS and they all seem to have perfectly sizes front spokes. Without seeing the drawing its a bit hards to say whats wrong, Have a look through The pictures for yourself and see how the Tee is proportioned to the spoke thickness as this may indicate that the 5/8 dim is wrong.
The 3/8" does sound a bit small for a 3" engine, the palms of the front spokes on my 2" Fowler are 3/8, even allowing for the fact the Burrell is a smaller prototype I would have thought they would be bigger
Jason |
Thread: Info needed |
10/02/2010 17:48:24 |
Not dealt with him but just watch out as some of his lathes do not include things like 4-jaw, faceplate , fixed and traveling steadies, etc as standard unlike Chester and Warco so this may not make the item such a good deal by the time these have been added on.
Jason |
Thread: Novice beginner |
10/02/2010 16:43:22 |
The adhesive is used in addition to the csk screws, just stops any slight movement. Something like a slow setting Araldite will do.
The palm of the spoke does not usually touch the inside face of the rim due to the fillet on the casting or welded joint. I'll look at a few engines and get back to you re what should be right. And the boys on TT will also help, seen you have been there.
Jason |
Thread: Tertium Quid Drawing Errors |
09/02/2010 20:34:34 |
Just spotted a few errors on these drawings
Base plate (both drawings) the overall size of the cut out is given as 1/4" (25mm) assume it should be 1".
Also on the base plate there is no way of locating the cutout vertically. I think it should align with teh 1/8 & 1/4 hole positions abu as drawn the cutout lines do not line up with the centre holes.
Flywheel The side elevation gives a total rim thickness of 1/4" but the section gives 1/4 + 1/16
Don't know if the metric dims are a new addition or from the original article but if newly added can they be consistant. 1 1/4" is shown as both 30mm and 32mm. 7/8" is given as 24mm and 25mm when its usual to round it to 22mm
I'll let you know if I see any more |
Thread: Lusus Naturae - Drawing Revisions |
09/02/2010 20:14:37 |
Thanks guys but the vertical centres of the holes are still missing.
Jason |
09/02/2010 19:40:06 |
Good to see that the missing dimensions have been added to the web site.
Unfortunately these revisions are wrong, the Valve cranks are made from two pieces of 1/16" material and you have now changed the overall thickness to 1/2" not the 1/8" as printed in the magmust be used to working in metric as the 1.5mm and 3.0mm sizes are right.
There is still no vertical centre distance for the holes, though it looks like its the same as the horizontal at 3/8"
And for consistancy should the 3/8" hole centers also have a nominal 10mm as all the other imperial sizes have a metric equivalent shown.
Jason
Edited By JasonB on 09/02/2010 19:42:34 Edited By JasonB on 09/02/2010 19:49:05 |
Thread: Novice beginner |
09/02/2010 18:53:04 |
Good to hear you have made a start.
Its usual practice to mount the rim & hub in a jig and then bend the spokes to suit as the angle will vary slightly depending on what radius you allow on teh bend and how far from the hub/palm you make the bends.
Jason Edited By JasonB on 09/02/2010 18:53:57 |
Thread: Bending steel tube |
08/02/2010 14:55:48 |
You can get 16mm conduit benders,
may even be able to hire one for a day.
Jason
Edited By David Clark 1 on 22/02/2010 15:14:14 |
Thread: Hexagon holes |
07/02/2010 07:56:38 |
You could make a broach to finish the hole once its been roughed out as you describe, assuming its a through hole. You can buy hex broaches but at over £100 for the smallers sizes you would need to be making a lot of holes.
Depending what you call small and the depth of cut it could be done with a rotary table and small milling cutter, then just file out the corners
Or build yourself an EDM machine
![]() JAson |
Thread: Adhesives |
30/01/2010 18:53:45 |
This will take you to an album with pictures of a CI face being made and then glued in, give me a while and I'll find the builders description of the process.
Jason |
30/01/2010 17:01:09 |
I've seen it done on a 4" traction engine with Araldite, go for a slower setting one not the 5min rapid.
Jason |
Thread: Is it worth the money |
27/01/2010 18:52:28 |
It can be worked out from whats on the backhead, I'll pm you rather than mention on the forum.
These photos and the subject of this post have done the rounds on a number of forums over the last year or so. They have been removed from several due to possible legal issues (David Please Note)
Jason |
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