By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 1237 1238 1239 1240 1241 1242 1243 1244 1245 1246 1247 Next > Last >>
Thread: Minnie Gears
06/06/2010 10:11:45
John
 
If they are of use there are a few more pics of my engine towards the end of this album, also some close ups of the damper hinge I took for someone last week.
 
J
05/06/2010 07:43:03
My only reservation would be that there is no keyway cut into the actual gearwheel so all  the load will be applied through the joint which may be asking a bit much of the loctite. If you are just going to run on air then its unlikely to be an issue but if you are steaming under load?
 
A soft pencil (2b or similar) will leave a line that the solder should not flow over and you can always mount the soldered assembly onto a mandrel and take a light skim off to true things up and remove any excess solder.
 
I solderd my minnie and by the looks of things took a skim off but that was a while ago when my soldering was not as neat as it is now.
 
Jason
Thread: wheel cutters/cutting
03/06/2010 20:25:41
You are going to have to fudge it a bit as a 96T gear cut with a 0.75MOD gives a PCD of 72mm or 2.835" which will muck up all your gear spacings, depth of cut will be in the region of 1.8mm or 0.070"
 
Maybe someone else can confirm what the OD should be but those figures from JW don't look right, PCD should be 2.823" and OD 2.880"
 
Jason
03/06/2010 20:01:49
As for depth of cut if you were using DP cutters the Addendum (hight of tooth above pitch circle) is 1/DP so 1/34 = 0.0294. Dedendum (ht below pitch circle) is 1.157/DP so 1.157/34 = 0.0340"
 
So your depth of cut should be the two added together 0.0634
 
Jason
03/06/2010 19:47:16
Are they the correct number cutter for 96teeth, they should be No2
 
Also your OD sounds a bit large, OD is calculated by adding 2 to the number of teeth and then dividing by the DP
 
So 96+ 2 = 98
 
98/34 = 2.880"

Edited By JasonB on 03/06/2010 19:47:40

Thread: rina hit and miss construction series
02/06/2010 18:01:59
You probably got the water pumps as they are now Stuart Models not Stuart Turner. Good showerpumps by teh way.
 
Jason
Thread: Turnbuckles
02/06/2010 07:31:09
I just bought some thimbles for my traction engine winch cable from these people who seem to have a good range of turnbuckles but you may have to use M5 thread
 
Jason
Thread: Scale of model traction engines
01/06/2010 18:43:28
Actual size will depend quite a lot of the prototype being modeled for example the 2" Fowler that I am making is only a couple of inches shorter than say a 3" Little Samson and the next model TE I want to do is a ploughing engine again in 2" and that is another 14" longer than my curent one at 50". But you could do a 4" Ruston & Proctor that is only 47" long
 
The largest items needing to be turned are generally the Flywheel and final Drive, I think all the 2" models would be 9" dia or under. The wheels can be rolled and welded or some such as MJ engineering offer them cast to finished size in alloy or ready welded.
 
The current trend seems to be to build bigger engines so thats where the newer offerings are likely to be such as Edward George' s(little samson) 6" Gold medal tractor. But MJ Engineering have recently started to do a 3" Wallis & Stevens
 
Edit Just had a quick tot up and there are suppliers of at least 15 different 2" models and 17 3" so you have a reasonable number to choose from and there is always the option to pick something different, get the drawings from the likes of MERL and make your own.
 
Jason
 
 

Edited By JasonB on 01/06/2010 18:50:44

Thread: rina hit and miss construction series
01/06/2010 17:28:14
As it says in the First part of this series they are standard Stuart 5" Flywheels.
 
Jason
 
 
Thread: Minnie Cylinder block
01/06/2010 16:40:39
The only problem you may have is the cylinder expanding with temp and giving a poor fit to the piston and possible galvanic attack between the copper and alloy.
 
Can you not source a lump of cast iron and loctite or shrink fit  the cylinder liner into that, the liner could be bronze or iron, then use a dural piston as this will give smoother running due to the lighter weight.
 
Jason
Thread: Scale model Economy hit & miss engine builders wanted
29/05/2010 11:55:01
John, make sure you say its the Engineers Emporium one as most of the US kits for the Economy are from other sources.
 
You could also try Smokestack forums, they have a model section towards the bottom of the page.
 
Jason 
Thread: Copyright issues
28/05/2010 17:19:04
Do you think they owner of the engine who can be seen in the video at the end of the thread looks a little like the ME author? Hope John (Bogs ) got a cut of the fee.
 
Jason
Thread: Poor surface finish using Myford
28/05/2010 13:47:40
Also make sure that the cutting tip of the tool is exactly on centre height as this will affect the cut even if the tool is sharp.
 
You don't say what diameter material you are working on, again the larger the diameter then slower it needs to rotate to keep the periferal speed the same.
 
Are these facing cuts accross the dia of the work or along the length of the work and are you feeding by hand or the power feed?
 
Jason
Thread: Publication Recommendation
28/05/2010 07:27:38
You can't go far wrong with the old classic "The Amateur's Lathe" by L.H. Sparey
 
ISBN 0-85242-288-1
 
Jason
Thread: New Machining In The Home Workshop Special
27/05/2010 18:56:06
Is that two specials then
 
Machining in your workshop and Machining in the home workshop
 
Jason
Thread: Castings
23/05/2010 12:32:49
Probably about 3-4" wide each link bit too long ago to remember the sizes from my 1:35 plastic days.
 
SG Iron may be the way to go not likely to crack as easily as grey cast.
 
Jason
23/05/2010 10:26:27
Just a thought could you purchase just the tracks from one of the firms that make the large scale tanks such as Mark 1 Tank ? they look quite close to scale and would save on having to make patterns etc
 
Edit, just looked at your album, you probably want an exact replica judging by the quality of what you have done so far.
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 23/05/2010 10:28:16

Thread: Code of Conduct
22/05/2010 09:03:13
"Do not presume to lecture me about about it"  "it tars us all with the same brush"
 
As you were not a contributing member of the forum before the Cof C was posted this hardly applied to you.
 
To join a forum which has things you disapprove of and make your innitial statement would be regarded as trolling on most forums! Maybe when you have made some more useful contributions you could then voice your oppinion as a Forum Member.
 
Jason
22/05/2010 08:05:35
Don't see the problem with posting the CofC. Just about every other forum I visit has something similar. Granted its sometimes tucked away somewhere as a sticky etc but its there together with the usual legal disclaimers.
 
There is obviously some reason the powers that be have felt it necassary to bring it to the attention of members and if it keeps the forum on the right tracks whats wrong with that.
 
Jason
Thread: Hall Effect
20/05/2010 10:24:31
Its really very simple with a hall effect sensor. You just need to fix the sensor and arrange for the small magnet to sweep accross its face. So that means the magnet can be glued into a small hole in say the flywheel boss or timing gear and the sensor to a non moving part of the engine. If you want to be able to advance & retard the timing then the sensor is best on an adjustable disc that can be rotated around the engine axis, Thats what I did on my hit & miss engine.
 
You then just run a earth from the engine to circuit board and a plug lead to the plug.
 
Here is another site with some set up instructions
 
J
<< First < Prev 1237 1238 1239 1240 1241 1242 1243 1244 1245 1246 1247 Next > Last >>
Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Shopping Partners
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate