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Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Making springs 2
15/08/2010 13:56:44
While we are on the subject of springs has anyone got a source for fine spring wire.
 
I have a couple of Hit & Miss engines to make that require quite small fine springs, sizes of the wires are 0.010", 0.015" and 0.020"  these would be approx 33,28 & 25swg respectively.
 
All the sources for piano wire that I have seen don't go down this fine, also I would only need short lengths so don't want a 1kg coil of the stuff.
 
I should add that these are compression, tension and torque springs with specific ends so can't just use off the shelf comp/tension springs
 
Thanks, Jason
Thread: Making Springs
15/08/2010 07:55:13
What about turning a wooden former to the profile you need, wind the spring around that and then burning it out before heat treating the spring.
 
Jason
Thread: Sealing Pipe Ends
15/08/2010 07:52:37
I went for small "washers" silversoldered to the ends of the pipe thus creating a flange that will bear against the square end of the fitting. Works OK on air but never tried my Minnie on steam.
 
On the larger sizes it is usual to use a ferrule and a union nut with the end of the fitting suitably CSk to allow the ferrule to seat just like an olive seats into a pipe fitting. The ferrule is silversoldeded to the pipe.
 
The only downside to this on small engines is the nut has to have a larger AF as the hole has to pass over the ferrule not just the pipe.
 
Jason
Thread: Material to use ?
14/08/2010 16:55:41
Should be fine on an engine of that size particularly if its not getting a lot of use.
 
Jason
Thread: Removing a chuck...
12/08/2010 18:42:28
I think someone is holding the bar, either that or the loose end of the strap is defying gravity.
 
J
12/08/2010 16:38:04
I don't think its the layout people flipping the image to suit front page layout as the gearbox is in the correct position on the lathe, if it were reversed the lathe would look wrong.
 
Just a badly posed photo me thinks.
 
Jason
Thread: Novice beginner
11/08/2010 07:26:58
The other thing is that a dimension may get changed but the actual part won't get redrawn so may still be the wrong size.
 
J
Thread: Marking out boiler tube.
09/08/2010 19:31:27
I would stand it on a pair of vee blocks and use a surface gauge or better still a height guage to lightly mark either side at approx centre height. Rotate the tube 180 degrees and pick up one of those marks with the surface gauge than move to the other mark. Its unlikely it will be on the mark so repeat the process adjusting the gauge up or down until they meet.
 
You will then have the scriber on teh surface gauge at centre height and its a simple matter to run a line down each side. While you are at it turn the tube 90degrees and align your two marks vertically with a tri square and then scribe another two lines down the side of the boiler. You now have horizontal centre lines as well as top and bottom ctr lines
 
You could probably bodge up something if you don't have vee blocks and a surface gauge is not hard to make and is a very useful tool for marking out.
 
I should have said that all this should be done of a true flat surface, a thick piece of glass, porcelain tile or a granite chopping board from the likes of Aldi or Lidl will suffice.
 
Jason
Thread: help needed
09/08/2010 19:07:50
Dreweatts is the one that springs to mine, their adver in old glory has a contact -
 
 
Pugh's are another that have models in with their other auctions.
 
I'm sure if you e-mail either of these the pictures above they could give you an idea of what its worth.
 
 
Just out of interest the double Tangye is still available from Reeves
 
Jason
09/08/2010 16:57:53
Can't really help with price but I would tend not to clean it, a lot of collectors enjoy restoring old engines so you may be reducing your market if its sold all bright and shiny and over cleaning would remove that patina of age that you just can't get any other way.
 
There are several auction houses that specialise in models like this, that may be the best way to get a valuation.
 
Jason
Thread: Novice beginner
08/08/2010 20:15:58
There are a few other errors listed here
Thread: DRO for Myford ML7
08/08/2010 20:09:33
Best put your name down for this then
 
One tip I got from KWIL is to put a fine felt tip pen in your mill chuck and have a practice with that. I did it before I committed to drilling the PCD holes as it was the first time i'd used the function.
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 08/08/2010 20:12:13

08/08/2010 19:39:18
The 1/2 function on the mill is not teh same as the one when using the lathe function.
 
On the lathe it will read dia or radius, so it will either tell you you have say 0.100" to take off the dia or 0.050" off the radius depending on what you prefer working with and what your handwheels are calibrated to.
 
On the mill its used to find the mid point between two other points. For the casting I showed above I used an electronic edge finder on one side, zeroed the Y axis then moved to the other face and when it touch it read something like 2.700", then hit the 1/2 button and the Y will read 1.350", feed back until it reads 0.000 and you will be central between the two edges or leave it where it is and you are 1.350" from the centre.
 
PM me your e-mail and I'll scan the installation pictures if you want them.
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 08/08/2010 19:44:06

08/08/2010 19:08:57
Well I've just fitted the SDS6-V3 to my mill, followed the pictures on the installation guide that came with the unit and clocked the scales with a dti as shown, took about 4hrs to do.
 
Initial use suggests its going to be a lot better than the calliper type scales I had before.
 
Not had a problem with the manual so far, this is what I tried it out on first, used the 1/2 function to centre the casting and the PCD to layout the holes, then bolted on this casting, holes lined up perfect having been done with Zuez tables using my old scales. Finally flipped the casting over, used 1/2 function again to centre which is a lot easier than working out with a calculator as before and then used the DRO to position the other six holes you can see the bosses for in this picture.
 
No problems with the system so far and it will get used all the time on the mill, just looking for a reason to use the other functions
 
If you are having a job understanding what some of the functions do have a look at teh videos on DRo Pros site, a few of the buttons may be different but it gives you an idea of how things should work
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 08/08/2010 19:14:50

Thread: Miniature Depth Gauge MEW # 166
08/08/2010 10:05:25
Use a ball turner with the cutter beyond ctr so it cuts concave like this or grind a form tool
 
Jason
Thread: Ball joint/rose joint
05/08/2010 20:14:06
There's a hundread or so on e-bay. The small RC ones are usually called Ball-Links
 
 
05/08/2010 19:47:38
These will fit an M3 rod but the ball is 2mm bore
 
J
 
 
Thread: data on cylinder block with govner for Marshall 7 hp Traction engine
03/08/2010 18:33:40
Try asking on Traction Talks miniatures section, I think there are a few members who have marshalls
 
 
Graham from Brunell Models who do the 3" drawings and castings is also an occasional contributor on there.
 
Jason
Thread: darjeeling locomotive
03/08/2010 07:25:56
Because the 3 1/2" has no the flange is 5/32". on the 3 1/2" drawings
 
3 3/16" back to back plus (2x 5/32") = 3 1/2"
 
Jason
Thread: how do you scale up drawings
03/08/2010 07:20:15
You don't actually need to redraw, just write the dims over the top in a different colour . BUT you need to calculate things carefully to arrive at those sizes.
 
Jason
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