Member postings for Russell Eberhardt

You don't need a changeover switch. The REV input has a pull-down resistor built in so that it goes to 0 V if left open circuit. It is connected via a simple switch to the +12 V pin to reverse the motor.

Silly question - have you made the connection labelled "1)" and dotted in the diagram on p. 14?

Russell

I don't have a mini lathe but I have an old Burgess bandsaw on which is timing belt driven. I replaced the motor pulley with a ten tooth one to reduce the speed to enable me to cut steel with it many years ago and not had any problems.

Russell

Thanks for that Paul. It should work perfectly on my Atlas lathe. Why hadn't I thought of it?

Russell

Must be worth the extra £éà or so for the accessories that come with it and the nicer handles.

Russell

Point out to your wife that a car put away wet, or even slightly damp, will rust more quickly than one kept out in the open. Something to do with concentration gradients around microscopic particles of dirt. I was told that by my metallurgy lecturer at university fifty years ago and have always kept my cars outside since. The only exceptions being my open topped vintage cars which were carefully dried before garaging.

Russell

Edited By Russell Eberhardt on 21/08/2018 10:53:43

That must be worth a visit. Is the exhibition further north in Sinsheim still going?

Russell

If it is an SU carb this might be what Roger is looking for.

http://sucarb.co.uk/dampers-caps-oil/brass-caps/vented-round-knurled-edge-brass-damper-cap.html

Russell

That's right Howard but you are thinking of later models. The earlier models (c. 1920s and 1930s) just had a plain brass cap with a small hole.  They also lacked the spring return for the piston, relying on gravity.

Russell

Edited By Russell Eberhardt on 19/08/2018 19:27:38

Could it be an SU carb? They often lost the top cap which provided damping to the piston by means of a small air hole on the early models.

Russell

Swiss needle files: **LINK**

Russell

They are probably made in the same factory. It's just that one type has the name put on it.

I once saw a factory in Malaysia where they were making T-shirts for Lacoste. They were also making unbranded ones on the same line which were sold for just a few pence in the local markets. The price difference isn't a matter of quality but the mark-up made by the brand owner to pay for, amongst other things, their advertising costs.

Russell

Have you tried contacting your local club d'aéromodélisme? You can find one here.

https://www.ffam.asso.fr/fr/pratiquer-l-aeromodelisme/trouver-un-club-pres-de-chez-vous.html

Russell

Hob nails? Seriously though ordinary contact adhesive works fine for me.

Russell

Just bought a "Rapporter d'angle numérique" (digital angle gauge) for €9.99, complete with branded lithium cell. Checked it against my Moore and Wright set square and it reads 90.0° so can't be too bad.

Russell

It might be interesting to compare the cost of a new Drummond M type (plus motor) in the 30s to the cost of a new Chinese Minilathe in terms of proportion of average earnings. Does anyone know the figures?

Russell

Just wondering - how did it become known as thermic syphon in boilers while it is thermosyphon in everything else?

Russell

Worth a try. Perhaps using just enough acetone to make it flow easily? Too much solvent might cause the three polymers that make up ABS to separate out and result in poorer mechanical properties.

Russell

I suspect that shrinkage as it dries out would be a problem. ABS melts at 280 C, perhaps you could cast it in a domestic oven?? Failing that how about making a Gingery injection moulding attachment for a pillar drill?

Russell

It does need to go on the side. Not considered to be good practice but for the small amount of metal removal for sharpening drills it's fine.

It's worth having a look at Harold Hall's website for how to use it, http://homews.co.uk/page354.html

Russell

Edited By Russell Eberhardt on 12/08/2018 10:00:33

Good luck!

Russell