Member postings for John Baguley

I suspect that for a larger loco expected to do some work i.e pull people around, you won't get enough heating surface to produce the steam output required. Probably be ok for a loco pulling a few wagons or coaches around?

John

Hi Steve,

Hope you find the construction details of interest. If you do go ahead with the build of the Kennet please feel free to contact me if you need any more information. I was a bit like you and working in the dark with it so made it up as I went along .

I'm not really into tool making but found the Kennet to be an enjoyable and not too difficult project.

I believe that MES now only supply the castings and not the other materials needed, although the rest is just standard stock.

John

Hi Nigel,

Tank engines will always have problems with injectors as the water temperature soon reaches a level where the injector refuses to work. Anything above 30°C and you will be struggling, probably less with a poorly designed one. The best bet is to top the tanks up with cold water on a regular basis or better still, feed the injector from a separate tank on the driving trolley.

The reason the injector stops working is that the incoming water becomes too warm to fully condense the steam when they are mixed in the combining cone. As the temperatire of the water rises from cold, the injector action becomes less efficient until it finally fails altogether and you just get water and steam out of the overflow.

It is possible to mitigate this problem to a certain extent by shimming the steam cone further out from the body to increase the water to steam ratio but the effect is limited. The problem then is that the injector becomes less reliable at lower temperatures. Jim Ewins reckoned he could design an injector to work with hot water but I've yet to find his secret!

A decent injector will easily pump 200 psi and more (from practical tests) so will overcome minor restrictions from the following pipe work and clacks. Too much is made of 'easy bends' etc. although it is best to give delivery clacks more lift than those intended for hand/axle pumps.The problem is that a lot of the commercial injectors are poorly designed/made and will only work if everything is 'spot on'.

It's interesting to note that an injector will still work even if the outlet is blocked - the water just comes out of the overflow rather than out of the delivery pipe as it has nowhere else to go.

John

Edited By John Baguley on 14/02/2013 00:58:36

Edited By John Baguley on 14/02/2013 01:10:24

I've always used Silverflo24 for the return bends on stainless superheaters and haven't had a problem yet. I make sure the return block is at the back of the firebox above the firehole where the temperatures are less extreme but the elements can and do glow red at times.

John

Hi Lofty,

GLR are closing down next month according to various posts on other forums. I also had an email last week saying as much. Apparently Pete intends to carry on selling some of the range of castings but on a private basis.

John

Hello David,

There are some photos of a chassis in the Station Road Steam Archive section. The oil pipes from the lubricator appear to connect directly to the steam chest below what I presume are the exhaust pipes.

**LINK**

John

Len,

the Reilangs all have just the cone end.

John

Reilang without a doubt. Look on Ebay - you can get them second hand for £10 to £20.

John

That's some very nice welding Nigel

John

Hi Alan,

It is 4277 as Dias says. Works a treat!

John

Hi Dave,

I use Loctite 242 Nutlock with good results.

John

In my index ( courtesy of Bill Philips and Chris Orchard) the articles are under D.Young and called 'Building 5 in. Gauge Rail-Motor Locomotives'. There's also a few called 'Two 5 in. gauge "Push and Pull" locomotives' I presume they are the same although I haven't looked.

John

Volume 134, issue 3342 to Volume 135, Issue 3363

John

80psi

John

The steam brake cylinder is supported by the brake gear linkages and is not fastened at all to the frames. This photo from Station Road Steam may help:

http://www.stationroadsteam.co.uk/stock%20pages/3442/pages/3442-k.htm

John

Yes, it's a Flexispeed. I bought one as a DIY kit back in the early 70s. Mine has metal handwheels though.

John

Many of the instantaneous water heaters on the market today use 'bare wire' technology where the water passes over a bare wire element. They heat the water much quicker than an insulated element. Just Google for 'bare wire instantaneous water heaters' and you'll find loads of them for sale in the UK.

John

Edited By John Baguley on 02/04/2012 20:43:59

Hi Neil,

Fasten it all together with small brass screws before you try soldering it. You can then file off any protruding heads etc afterwards.

John

Edited By John Baguley on 15/03/2012 00:27:36