Member postings for LADmachining

The clamping plate on the mill table and all of the accessories are tapped for 10-32, so I think it would cost more to buy a new piece of ali plate and re-tap it and all the other parts than get hold of some more threaded rod.

A valid point though, and one to keep in mind if the UNF studding isn't easily available.

Any links or auction numbers? I looked on there and couldn't find any.

Afternoon all.

I am looking to obtain some 10-32 UNF threaded rod, to chop into 1-4" lengths and make more hold-down studs for my Sherline mill.

It can be ordered from the USA where it is more commonplace, but the carriage works out more than the material.

Does anyone know of a UK based supplier? I only found some at Cromwell's who have a 'special offer' of £14 for a metre.

It only needs to be self-coloured steel, not diamond-coated unobtainium!

Thanks,

Anthony

I have the RCD tripping issues when using my pillar drill with a Parker (Eurotherm) VFD installed. The Telemecanique VFD on my lathe has never caused a problem. Both have an EMC filter installed. My property has a 'TT' earthing system, as the power is brought in on overheads with no direct link back to the substation for the earth, other than that provided by an earth electrode in the ground. As such, the incoming supply is wired through a standard 30mA 80A RCBO, and the entire house goes into darkness when the supply is tripped by the VFD.

I am looking to split the incoming feed, have a time delayed 100mA RCBO installed to protect the installation between incomer and workshop, then install separate 30mA RCDs in the workshop for the sockets and machines. The domestic side of the installation will still be protected by the existing RCBO.

My installation also has 10mm sq SWA cable running between the current consumer unit (via a breakout/junction box) and the workshop. Having undetrtaken a 16th edition course on system design, verification and testing in the past, when sizing the cable there are a number of factors to take into account, not just the current carrying capacity of the cable. These are (but not limited to):

* How is the cable installed. What effect will bundling/installation within walls have on the temperature rise of the conductor and in turn the cable insulation

* What is the voltage drop over the length of the cable run (live AND neutral!) and is it within limits at expected current loading

* What is the earth loop impedance? Will this impedance allow a fault at the far end of the installation trip the protection device within the required time? Will the current let-through cause unacceptable temperature rise in the cable?

Often after working through these calculations, the cable size has to be a lot larger than first expected!

Regards,

Anthony

I asked a similar question several months ago.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=94307

Rgds,

Anthony

Edited By LADmachining on 28/01/2015 19:36:03

I seem to recall using this board (if not something very similar) when I was studying A level electronics in the mid-90's. Z80 processor if it is the one I am thinking of, although there could have been 6502 types as well.

Any programs we developed were written out in assembly language, then manually translated into machine code for entry into the keypad. Luckily the programs were never that big!

Nowadays, I would have said you would be better to get hold of an Arduino and use that to develop your programming and electronics skills.

Anthony

Can't wait to hear this fire into life!

Excellent work, Dean!

Please add me to the list.

Thanks,

Anthony

I have ordered UNF fasteners from www.microfasteners.com in the US several times in the past. The orders have always arrived quickly, they charge sensible amounts for postage, and given the price of their products a typical order usually falls well under the threshold for VAT and import duty to be paid.

I've even ordered metric fasteners from them, as the lengths of the screws I required weren't available from most suppliers in small quantities (well, I didn't need a box of 1000).

Edited By LADmachining on 29/06/2014 15:47:17

Hi Ian,

This article runs to 9 pages, and seems to be more of an overview of the process, with pointers as to pitfalls and useful dodges. He does seem to give step-by-step instructions on disassembly.

There are no drawings, but there are 24 black and white photographs.

I wouldn't have said it was worth buying the book for this article alone, although the rest of the content makes the cost worthwhile.

I have most of the HSM series, and ordered them over a period of several years from www.powells.com. Even with postage, they are cheaper than in the UK.

Anthony

Edited By LADmachining on 07/06/2014 14:50:13

This is a common issue when using digital scales. The battery acts as a reservoir to 'smooth' the incoming supply and reduce interference.

The same smoothing effect can be obtained by removing the battery and soldering a suitable value capacitor across the battery terminals.

If you search any of the forums/websites relating to Shumatech DRO's, they will contain info on adding capacitors to the scales to correct the 'jitter' in the readings.

** EDIT ** - Here is a link that should explain everything in detail - http://rick.sparber.org/Articles/JO/JO.pdf

Edited By LADmachining on 09/05/2014 21:12:28

Hi all,

Has anyone had experience of using the Repton RT1 ball turning tool that is being advertised by one of the usual ME suppliers?

Any comments on it appreciated, as I am looking for a ball turning attachment, and this seems to fit the bill. The spec states the maximum diameter is 60mm - is there likely to be a practical minimum?

Thanks,

Anthony

WH Smith's in Warwick should have them.

Yes, all sorted.

Is it ironic that the post pointing out that there is an issue with photo sizes causing problems with the site doing the exact same thing that is being reported?

I think it is the photo of the screenshot in the first post that is the cause.

Make sure the coil isn't rated for use with a ballast resistor, which would drop the nominal 12V from the battery to approximately 7V at the coil during normal running. The resistor is switched out of the circuit when the starter is operated to ensure the coil is not run under-voltage when battery voltage drops under the load of the starter motor.

The coil getting so hot so quickly does suggest it is running at too high a voltage.

Anthony

I guess that is a copy of some data from a table in your last post. I would ignore all of it, as it will only really apply to you if you had a large industrial lathe or machining centre. For a small hobby lathe (you don't specify which one), all of that goes out of the window.

Get hold of a tool that uses good quality carbide inserts, such as the CCMT060204 type used in Glanze tools. Then, just start taking material off, increasing speed and feed slowly up to a point you are happy with the rate of material removal and surface finish. The lathe will soon let you know when it is not happy and you are putting it under too much load!

Anthony

Log into your account on Alibre.com, and look under your account info, the most recent licence key you registered should be shown on the screen.

If you are trying to install on a different machine, then you will need to contact Alibre for an updated key. I had more luck contacting John Minto at Mintronics to get my key updated recently, as I had waited 5 days for Alibre to respond with no reply. John sorted it straight away.

Anthony

As above - never seen this often mentioned phenomenon.

Even if the chuck did appear stationary, the whine of the motor and the fan on the inverter soon gives the game away that the lathe is under power...

Well, something has changed then.