Member postings for LADmachining

Very true. But the thing to appreciate is that newer car electrics are nothing like those of old, and there are often complicated and unseen interactions between seemingly unconnected devices that are linked together by CAN buses or other networks. Once communication errors occur on a bus due to a module being disconnected or entering a fault state, other modules which rely on information from the first one enter default states to ensure safety or a minimum level of functionality.

I expect in your case the display shut down or entered a indeterminate state due to low supply voltage. Disconnecting and refitting the multi-plug was enough to reset it. You could have safely changed the battery over without the hassle of maintaining the supply voltage with another source - many newer vehicles do not have a radio code as such any more. The modules are 'coded' or 'married' to each other by VIN number or other security code which is automatically checked when battery power is restored. If modules from a stolen vehicle are fitted without recoding then the codes do not match and they will not work. It needs dealer level diagnostic tools or equivalent to divorce or marry units together.

Anthony

Robin,

Where abouts in the UK are you? If you are in Hampshire I have dealer level diagnostic equipment for Vauxhalls which can read out the ABS unit and determine the fault that is causing the light to come on. I worked for a main dealer in the late 90's / early 2000s so I am familiar with the common faults.

Which model of Astra do you have - you say 2010 but that could be either the Astra-H (Mk5, 2005-2010) or Astra-J (Mk6, 2010-2015). If your instrument panel doesn't have a temperature gauge, then it is likely an Astra-H.

From the sound of it, I would think that the intermittent ABS light coming on was due to a problem with a connection to a wheel speed sensor. During the MOT the weight of the car would have been removed on the ramp to check wheel bearings / suspension etc. This would have fully extended the suspension and may have finally broken a connection on the ABS wiring or slightly parted the connector, hence how the light is now on permanently. I cannot explain how this has affected the display in the instrument panel as this has separate fuses and is connected to a different CAN bus to receive information.

Anthony

I am in the process of planning a re-organisation of my workshop, and have hit upon the idea of providing a free-standing cabinet on which to mount my Fobco Star and free-up some bench space.

Has anybody got any experience of doing this and can recommend either a design for a wooden cabinet, or used a commercially available item (I had considered buying a suitably sized milling machine stand from Warco or similar)?

Any suggestions appreciated.

Anthony

Well after a bit of trial and error, I seem to have everything adjusted and working as it should.

To do this, I removed the ratchet, then the thimble. The threaded rod that drives the anvils was then moved a little by hand and the thimble replaced, repeating until the thimble mark lined up with 0.625" with the index at 0. Once done, the ratchet was refitted and the calibration process completed as outlined in the video Martin posted above. All now seems to be in order!

Thanks,

Anthony

Thank you Martin,

I did a double-take when I first read your post and thought my picture had appeared in your post too. On looking closer however...!

I had gently nipped up that recessed grub screw as per the instructions I read after setting the micrometer to the setting ring. I will have another play and see what else can be done with the screw loosened.

The only other screws present are two very small grub screws that seem to fix the black shroud in place.

Anthony

Hello everyone.

I have recently acquired a Fowler-Bowers bore micrometer, size 5/8 - 3/4", along with a 0.7497" setting ring.

Trying to set the gauge up with the setting ring according to instructions for a similar Bowers non-digital micrometer (model XT, although the one I have is an earlier model). Question is, is it possible to adjust the reationship between the '0' position on the thimble and the line that co-incides with the .625" etc index mark on the barrel? There seems to be some mis-alignment currently that to my mind will make it difficult to interpret the readings taken.

Having bought it from eBay, if there is a fundamental problem with it (i.e wear or damage) that is causing the mis-alignment, it will be possible to return it after consultation with the seller.

Any assistance appreciated.

Regards,
Anthony

Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99 is ethanol free in certain areas of the country, although the pumps are still marked up E5.

More info: Esso Fuels

I bought my Sherline mill nearly 20 years ago from Millhill Supplies when they were near Wallingford, Oxon. Haven't had any experience of the current incarnation of Millhill Supplies.

Very happy with the machine, it is done everything I have asked of it over the years, and not had any problems with it. Could do with more spindle to table height at times, but that is to be expected on a small benchtop mill.

Edited By LADmachining on 20/08/2021 14:41:00

An updated edition of "The Leader Locomotive" by Kevin Robertson is due for release in September.

Crecy Publishing - Leader Locomotive

I think this relates to the thread "Centaur Ignition Coil" where Duncan mentioned he once briefly had a Lambretta.

Anthony

There are a number of projects that do exactly this, using either an Arduino or Raspberry Pi. Most show a simple loop antenna, which only allows transmission distances of a few inches to avoid interfering with any other equipment or fall foul of any unathorised broadcast laws.

Two of probably many examples:

RasPi TxTempus (can simulate multiple time signal standards, such as DCF77, MSF etc)

DCF-77 Generator for Arduino (Udo Klein has produced a number of useful libraries and other projects for working with the DCF77 signal)

Anthony

He also can't decide whether his first name has one or two 'L's !

Anthony

Morning All,

I am looking into starting a strip and rebuild of my Fobco Star, as it looks old and tired, and there is play in the spindle bearings that requires attention.

Currently in the reasearch and info gathering phase before starting work. The question I have relates to removing the quill return spring. I haven't yet found anywhere that documents how to do it safely and so that it can be refitted - the lathes.co.uk website suggests fitting a new spring on rebuilding, which seems pretty wasteful considering there is no problem with the old one (that I know of). I bought the Fobco 'manual' from lathes.co.uk and it was pretty disappointing to be honest, with only a couple of pages of 'notes' and a load of old sales brochures.

Can anyone offer any practical tips on removing and refitting the spring without losing fingers or eyes?

Thanks,

Anthony

You would hope they are not selling it, as it looks to be an electrical safety nightmare. The flex looks to be 2-core, if it is you can guarantee that the exposed metalwork isn't earthed. I guess it could have a plug-in mains adaptor that is out-of-shot somewhere - don't think those bulbs come in low voltage varieties though.

Anthony

Is the inverter just ramping the test motor up to full speed (100%) on pressing start, or do you have a potentiometer to vary the speed?

Anthony

Just tried printing from Pocketmags using Chrome on Linux MInt, prints no problem and produces a PDF output. Which operating system are you using?

Gerard - as you have just got your Pocketmags account working, it probably doesn't link earlier issues being available despite you having a valid subscription for that time period. I find an email to their helpdesk gets a quick response and the problem sorted.

Anthony

Nice!

Issue 39 came out in Nov '20. Maybe you didn't get the notification.

Anthony

I think it is accepted that a Diesel engine does not have a throttle valve in the traditional sense, what was referred to here was a 'tiny amount of throttle' AKA only gently depressing the throttle pedal. However, some Diesel engines do have an ECU controlled throttle valve in the intake tract to increase manifold vacuum and increase EGR flow, and it also closes at engine shut-down to reduce engine shudder as it comes to a stop.

AdBlue is for SCR (selective catalytic reduction) of NOx within the exhaust gas - it is not involved in DPF regeneration.

In the 10 years of running multiple diesel cars with DPFs (all Vauxhall), I have not had any issues with the filters blocking or warning of impending blockage despite only making short journeys most of the time by following these rules:

* Identify when an active regeneration is taking place, and ensuring engine revs are kept above 2000rpm until it completes. Many problems are caused by owners inadvertently switching off the engine mid-regen and the cleaning cycle never fully completes. This can also cause issues with the excess diesel injected finding its way into the sump and diluting the oil therein

On my vehicles, it is determined that a regen is active by a change in drivability/throttle response, increased fuel consumption determined by trip computer (goes from the usual 0.3gal/h at idle to 1.0+), increased idle speed, stop/start system inhibited, heated window switched on by control system, change in exhaust note and 'hot' smell from exhaust.

* Ensure engine ancillaries are all in good working order, especially EGR valve and intake system downstream of the turbo. Slight leaks in these areas, which may not bring on the engine management light, can result in increased soot production which is not accounted for by the engine control system. This results in the filter filling up sooner than expected and can lead to a 'filter blocked' warning before an active regen is triggered.

New petrol vehicles that meet Euro6.2 emissions regultaions now come with a GPF fitted, so changing to petrol is no longer a guarantee of avoidance of problems in the exhaust filter area. These do have slightly different method of regenerating, usually this is done passively during the driving cycle when the vehicle coasts down hill off the throttle. Excess air passing through the engine reacts catalytically in the GPF and burns off any accumulated soot. Still reports of problems on the forums though, due to some drivers not following typical driving patterns, or vehicle software going awry!

I always stomach the slower delivery time via standard post rather than risk the extra costs with DHL.

That said, even with the import duty and fees, I think the PCBs will still work out cheaper than sourcing them from a fab in the UK or EU.

PCBshopper.com is a good price comparison site forPCB manufacture.

To get an idea of EU costs, have a look at Eurocircuits - your 10x 4"x2.5" single sided boards on a 7-day turnaround time are at least 115 EUR!