Member postings for Fulmen

It actually does both. It's an electrolytic oxidation, forming an porous oxide coating. IIRC the coating thickness for the typical type II anodizing is less than 30um (1mil) where 1/3 to 1/2 will be buildup.

I have never had any problems getting a full coat on the inside of the tube, but then again I have never measured the coating thickness. So I wouldn't be surprised if the internal coating ends up thinner. After all the current density will be far less on the inside. At first that doesn't matter much as the coating increases the resistance, distributing the current to any low resistance areas. But after a while the resistance stops increasing, at least in my setup it quickly stabilizes to a constant current at 20-25V.

And while a constant current setup is the best I have gotten very good results by simply using 12V constant voltage.

But what about the spring? Any metal (other than Al and Ti) connected to the anode will dissolve rapidly, it's a well known secret for removing broken taps from aluminum.

As for white spots, it's usually caused by dirt/grease or air bubbles stuck to the part. Cleanliness is extremely important.

I would be a little hesitant with putting any foreign metal into the anodizing bath, even if it wasn't connected to the power. This is another place where a 3D printer might come in handy. IIRC ABS can handle weak sulfuric acid fairly well.

I agree, Mike. Using a level is simply the simplest way to do that. It also makes it possible to use a level to align parts. But I don't think it makes any difference if the machine is placed at an arbitrary angle (within reason of course).

A level is also unique in that you can calibrate it without any special tools or precision references.

With the help of a furnace and a harness tester you can guesstimate the general class of steel. I did this with some scraps of unknown "tool steel" by water quenching and tempering at increasing temperatures. It matched typical "chrome moly" and I've used it as such for parts that needed strength but wouldn't kill me if it failed.

Simpler tools will give a rougher estimate, but that might be enough for your needs.

I think "AI", at least today's version should be called 'machine learning'.

Oxford Languages defines intelligence as: The ability to acquire and apply knowledge and skills. These algorithms do not learn during it's operation, only during it's generation.

When you plug it in the extra electrons makes the cable swell.

Well done indeed. This is why small machines fetch such a premium.

Sure. Personally I have never done just the outside. Either it hasn't mattered or I have wanted everything coated. It's quite doable to seal off the inside, but it's more work and adds challenges like buoyancy.

I have always used Davids method.

I have moved mine twice using a pallet, a pallet jack and a ramp trailer with a winch. It wasn't easy or fun but it got the job done.

True, with all the possible configurations there isn't any absolute numbers. But judging the CAD drawings I think it will be somewhere between 1:2 and 2:1. Maybe there is a point to this super fine adjustment, but I think I will keep it as a future upgrade.

Had to pull apart the prop shaft and housing on the boat to replace the cutless bearing. It was supposed to go out tomorrow, now I'm fighting corroded press fits and waiting for new parts.

Buno-N is the same as nitrile/NBR.

Not on it's own. These chargers tends to check if a battery is present before they deliver any power, and they will also regulate the current depending on the battery voltage.

Any opinion on the "soluble" (i.e. white emulsions) and them newfangled "synthetics" i think they're called (actually soluble, producing a clear liquid)?

The chip tray on my machine is flat, so I loose a lot of water by evaporation. With the white stuff I can eyeball the concentration and adjust with water, that doesn't work with the new stuff (mine is from HMB).

Very nice work. I've done a few such builds over the years, it's a lot of work.

My first 3D work was the US M2 using the primitive 3D functions in Autocad back in the early 2000's.

Is that from an Mg42?

@Sonic: The typical range is between 135-145°C (275-295F). Above that you start getting a red "rusty" oxide, below that the coating is thin or non-existent. The rusty coating can often be rubbed clean with oil, but it usually leaves a matte finish and messes up the bath.

For simple batch processing you run the bath at very slow boil, this gives a very constant (but rising temperature). Start with a slight excess of water, and run the bath until you're done or it gets to warm.

Adding water to a hot bath is very dangerous. The heat causes the water to flash boil, spraying hot salt everywhere. If you must do so, wear a face mask and try to add it very gentle, for instance with a ladle held at the bath level. And don't blame me if you get burned.