Member postings for Huub

When I last year bought 3D printer I was forced to finally learn 3D design software. My Fusion360 version complained that the 3 year free licence was passed. At that time, I couldn't find a free Fusion360 version to download. So I decided to try Freecad. I forced my self for 2 weeks to see a Youtube video every day and that worked. You really have to put time into 3D design software.
Then after 2 month using Freecad, I was sorry that I didn't use 3D design software before. For me it is so more productive than 2D progecad and some other packages I used for a long time.

Freecad is absolute not error free. There are a lot of small bugs that cost (at start) a lot of time to solve. But every day it goes better and now I am a very happy Freecad (0.20 version) hobby user.

If Fusion360 could be installed locally and the free licence would be free for ever, than I definitely would go for Fusion360 because most of the dutch CNC zone users, prefer Fusion360. But if Fusion360 changes their licence policy, a lot of my design history could be lost and I wont take that risk.
If you use CAD software commercially, I wouldn't recommend Freecad because every hour you spent on bug fixing is a lost production hour.

John,

An article is a good Idea and a lot of readers could benefit. I really would like to do this and thought about it the whole day, but I can't do it.

Due to my health, the time I can spent behind a PC is limited. The making of this video was way beyond what my body can bear and now, as expected, I suffer the consequences. It will take me a few months to recover.

I hope some body else can do this!

Best regards, Huub

I can now make my own (end mill style) gear cutters thanks to Ivan Law, John Stevenson, MikesWorkshop, and a lot of video's on YouTube.

This is how I do it

Making gear cutters and (helical) gears on the lath and on the mill

I milled my own parallels and marked one side so that I can place them back the way they are milled. Heigth is now withing 0.01 mm.

I removed the vice jaws, and milled the vice so now the jaws are square to the mill.

For aligning the (80 mm) vice I made a spacer. The back of the spacer was clamped against the flat Z-axis support of the mill. Then the front of the spacer was milled. Now the front is perpendicular to the X-axis of the mill. When I use this spacer for aligning the vice, it is 9 of 10 times within 0.02 mm measured over 60 mm. That is accurate enough for most of what I make.
If I need it to be more accurate, I align the vice using an indicator to get it within 0.01 mm.

Last year I bought a 100 mm Vice for € 100 from Paulimot Germany. The left and right side of the vice (base) differ about 0.04 mm. That is quit much in my opinion.
If I need a new vice, I will try Vertex, that is (hopefully) better in quality.

You should also check the alignment of the milling head in X, Y and Z direction before you seriously start accurate milling.

From rigth to left, some taps I use for the mill and the lathe

For the mill, and the lathe I use taps that have a hex shaft and a drilling point
For blind holes, i grinded off the drill portion of this tap
To hold common taps I mount (shrink fit) an aluminium 3 flats holder.
You can also use hex steel to shrink fit but the then the difference in diameter should be around 0.02 mm
The last tap is used for manual tapping using a DIY tap holder. The mill or lathe tail stock are used for guiding the tap. The round bus is used to centre, the square end for clamping. I use this is only for larger taps when the torque of the mill or lathe is to low.

I have recently made a video about making gears cutters and gears. It was not targetting clock gears but the procedure is basically the same. This is the topic: Making gear cutters an gears

Jouke,

You under estimate yourself. You have the tools and brains. Your skills will grow, that is a matter of time. I am curious how you see this next year or so.

Regards Huub

Jouke,

I finally finished the video about gear making. I started a separate topic and I hope it will get you on the way.

Topic

Video

Regards, Huub

For some years, I make my own gear cutters and gears on the lathe and the mill using the "button method". I made a video that covers all aspects of how I do this. Maybe it is help full.

Making gear cutters and gears

James,

You could also mount this grinding disk to a small bench grinder. On the other side you could mount a white stone for rough HSS grinding.

Huub

This could work and if the bearings are a problem, add some extra.

I have checked the reviews and all seems very good except this remark:

For the price this is excellent, works as intended, perfectly balanced motor. However you should know what you're doing as the power supply is a bit unsafe as there is no isolation between AC and DC side. I suggest you mount it in a grounded box sharing common ground with the potentiometer. But hey, it works and the safety concern is not in how it's constructed but the lack of instructions for novices.

If this is true, it could be really unsafe!!!!!!
This also means, there can't be a CE certification.
The CE certification on the supplied link is for a brushless DC motor and that can't be this 2 wire motor!!!!

According to the data sheet, the motor voltage is 100V DC, so be carefull.

Edited By Huub on 24/03/2022 22:12:39

James,

The basic (non critical) shape is grinded on a bench grinder. The diamond disk is only used to (re) sharpen.

For all driven tools, when possible, i use the Dremel to prototype. If the prototype is working ok, i select the final motor.

I have a Dremel 3000 (175W). The torque is low at low RPM and the RPM is not controlled. As far as I know, the Dremel 4000 should keep the RPM constant and would be a better choice.

I try to avoid using the Dremel because it is so loud.

I use these scales (from igaging) on my mill for several years now and they are OK. However, these scales are not swarf or water proof. So I made a "protective" cover to protect against swarf (I don't use coolant on the mill)

I have mounted the disk on a 2 trust bearing axis so the disk is running true without play.
The back of the axis has a hex hole that fits the nut on the dremel.
After a wile, I changed the dremel for the stepper motor that run's very quit.
I threaded the mounting hole of the disk.

The housing fits the dremel thread on one side and the threading of the grinder at the other side.

I choose for trust bearings because the load is only axial.

The parts (without housing)

The parts mounted (without housing)

The disk is a cheap "diamond" grinding disk. A link to the dutch supplier (article 7944) Grinding disk

It gives a good finish even when running (dry) at 800 RPM. For hobby use, in this setup, it will last for years.

You are right about that.

I want to be sure I always use the same angle. That way, there is very little grinding needed. That saves time and tool life.

I have counted my "angle blocks", there are 2 vertical blocks and 6 horizontal blocks. For inner turning tools, the 2 vertical blocks are stacked for a greater clearance angle.

More complicated grinding (mills, drills, taps, rotary broaches, slitting disks, etc) I do on the small CNC lathe.

I do not grind tools by hand (only for rough grinding). I made this tool grinder that uses holders. I made different holders for different angles. I can stack the holders to combine Horizontal and Vertical angles. I regrind a tool in just a few seconds. I takes more time to replace an insert.

The "diamond" disk is driven by a low torque Nema17 stepper. When ever I use to much force, the stepper will stall, preventing damage to the disk.

I think you could also adjust (swap) the spacer between the pulley and the gear for a better alignment.

The HSS cutting edges are sharper than (unpolished) carbide and give a better finish at the low RPM threading is mostly done. The sharper edges reduce the cutting force and allows a shallower cutting depth.

If it is a good quality chuck, keep it. It is one of the most important parts of the lathe. Replacing a chuck can be quit expensive.